(Arsenale) New codes, new languages for sophisticated fashions. Style is evolution, with elegance moving beyond the usual boundaries, an avant-garde look that shuns both excess and clichés. Young international designers featuring out-of-the-ordinary clothing and accessories collections. The Inspirations A blend of technical sport and classic fabrics, inspired by the country and a metropolitan image. In general, there is a large amount of the handmade: embroidery, patches and stitching. A style that rebels against convention – against what is “serious” clothing and minimalism at any price. The Looks A blend of past and future and different ethnicities: a look that comes from a free association of ideas. Avant-garde technology, traditional materials and a marked “crafted” tendency. De-contracted: knits for jackets, often with leather appliqués. Washed fabrics with a worn look. Hand-mades: knits with colored stitching and embroideries, crafted; patchwork shirts, intarsias. Shearling on the edge, with the fur showing through. Raw/Tech with details like zippers sewn onto the outsides. Anti-classic with an asymmetrical use of decorations. – and sometimes a love for tradition with gentlemanly suits and accessories. The Shapes A slim, yet softened fit, something of the country gentleman. Knitted blazers and cabans. Or a decidedly vertical flair: tightened volumes on long coats. Jeans in the original vintage shapes, or definitely tighter fitting. Jackets and cabans with slim armholes. Jackets close to the military tradition. For the sporty portion, full, comfortable, ergonomically styled trousers with rounded pockets and elastic waists. Details straight from the work-wear wardrobe. “Strategic” padding on the elbows and knees. Redesigned parkas that are oversized and can be folded up like a K-way. Modular outerwear: removable linings that become garments on their own. The Materials Fulled Casentino, washed Shetland. Colored tweeds. Herringbone cashmere. Cloth, felt, fustian and wide-wale corduroy. Leather trims. “Robust” blends, wool/cotton. Thick, reinforced cottons. Cottons/nylons with an oiled hand. Dark indigo denim, or “hard-washed” for a worn look. Traditional wools (tweeds, Prince of Wales, felted flannels) in combination with or treated with technical materials (polyurethane coatings, kevlar, Teflon). Ripstop nylon, flocked nylon, cordura. Technical linings or padding: lightweight and minimum thickness for ideal heat-insulation. Shetland. Boiled, fulled wools – even in the finest varieties (cashmere). Supergeelong lambswool Woven-look knits. Extrafine merinos. Alpaca, camel, cashmere. Mohair and kid mohair. Basic knits in thin gauges (12). Fleece-effect knits. Thick yarns (gauge 3), playing with stitches, a “hand-made” look) candlewick, tape and malfilé). Naturals blended with manmade fabrics (tactel, hollow-fiber polyester) for new performance levels. Ecological sheepskin. Rabbit, shearling. Pile-bonded nappa; pile with unfinished split cowhide with a particularly “tough” look. Embroiders and studs. The Colors Ivory. Deep red, brick red, orange. Violet, plum, military blue, indigo, bright blue and sky blue. Black, lead, anthracite, cold naturals. Greys with nuances of color. Flashes of white, turquoise, fuchsia. Khaki, the true basic. Camel, brown and dark, dark brown. Greens: acid, oil, military, sage and moss. Mélange effects; tweed and Donegal. Some micropatterns. Plaids, checks and overchecks with a country air. Tie-dyed effects. Over-dyed stripes for the shirts. Orientally inspired embroideries. Camouflage prints. Colored, hand-painted stripes. The Accessories Scarves, hats and slippers in “warm” hand wool. Shoulder bags and sacks in unhemmed split, or loden-finishes. Rubbed felt, cloth and leather hats. Sophisticated personal jewelry: cufflinks, rings, watches, in precious materials and essential lines. Ties that use the most traditional silks in the most original ways – or rubbed silk. 11°56° Petroleum - Armand Basi - Base Elements - Bugli Uomo - Cabirio - Carla Falleri - Duchamp - Enrico Fantini - Evisu - Forniture Civili - Gashgajs - Gazzarrini Uomo - Gene Meyer - Gian Carlo Rossi - J.AT - Job Garment - Kunié - Liviana Conti - Mario Matteo - Mauro Myrland - Mediterranea - Messagerie - Nigel Cabourn - Roberto Collina - Simultaneous - Sine Die - Sosse - Tateossian - Ugo Cacciatori - V/O vestiumofficina
Posted on: Wed, 31 Jul 2013 11:47:00 +0000
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