Awesome alpine climbing yesterday up on Sir Donalds NW Face Double Direct (IV) with Simon! This variation was first climbed a couple years ago by Raphael Slawinski & Josh Lavigne. The climb featured a pitch of fun waterfall ice to start, which wasnt too hard but was somewhat detached and had no protection so it added some excitement! After that, 9 full ropelengths of alpine ice with occasional steep bits led up a gully to the summit ridge. We ended up avoiding some traversing at the top and did a final short mixed pitch to the summit. We rappelled the route, mostly on V-threads, which was way nicer than going down the West Ridge. Oh ya, and there was 37km of walking round-trip, I think Id do it as a 2 day outing next time! Overall the route is in great shape, go get it!
Posted on: Sat, 11 Oct 2014 13:05:03 +0000
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