Cape Town - The Mother City The arrival of Europeans[edit] The first Europeans to discover the Cape were the Portuguese, with Bartholomeu Dias arriving in 1488 after journeying south along the west coast of Africa. The next recorded European sighting of the Cape was by Vasco da Gama in 1497 while he was searching for a route that would lead directly from Europe to Asia. Table Mountain was given its name in 1503 by Antonio da Saldanha, a Portuguese admiral and explorer.[7] He called it Taboa da caba (table of the cape). The original name given to the mountain by the first Khoi inhabitants was Hoeri kwaggo (sea mountain)[citation needed]. 1652: The arrival of the Dutch[edit] The area fell out of regular contact with Europeans until 1652, when Jan van Riebeeck and other employees of the Dutch East India Company (Dutch: Vereenigde Oost-Indische Compagnie, or simply VOC) were sent to the Cape to establish a halfway station to provide fresh water, vegetables, and meat for passing ships travelling to and from Asia. Van Riebeecks party of three vessels landed at the cape on 6 April 1652. The group quickly erected shelters and laid out vegetable gardens and orchards, and are preserved in the Company Gardens. Water from the Fresh River, which descended from Table Mountain, was channelled into canals to provide irrigation. The settlers bartered with the native Khoisan for their sheep and cattle. Forests in Hout Bay and the southern and eastern flanks of Table Mountain provided timber for ships and houses. At this point, the VOC had a monopoly on trade and prohibited any private trade. The Dutch gave their own names to the native inhabitants that they encountered, calling the pastoralists Hottentots, those that lived on the coast and subsisted on shellfishing Strandlopers, and those who were hunter-gatherers were named Bushmen. The first wave of Asian immigration to South Africa started in 1654. These first immigrants were banished to the Cape by the Dutch Batavian High Court. These Asians helped to form the foundation of the Cape Coloured and Cape Malay populations, as well as bringing Islam to the Cape. The first large territorial expansion occurred in 1657, when farms were granted by the VOC to a few servants in an attempt to increase food production. These farms were situated along the Liesbeeck River and the VOC still retained financial control of them. The first slaves were brought to the Cape from Java and Madagascar in the following year to work on the farms.[8] The first of a long series of border conflicts between the inhabitants in the European-controlled area and native inhabitants began in 1658 when settlers clashed with the Khoi, who realised that they were losing territory. Work on the Castle of Good Hope, the first permanent European fortification in the area, began in 1666. The new castle replaced the previous wooden fort that Van Riebeeck and his men built. Finally completed in 1679, the castle is the oldest building in South Africa. Simon van der Stel, after whom the town of Stellenbosch is named, arrived in 1679 to replace Van Riebeeck as governor. Van der Stel founded the Cape wine industry by bringing grape vines with him on his ship, an industry which would quickly grow to be important for the region. He also promoted territorial expansion in the Colony. The first non-Dutch immigrants to the Cape, the Huguenots, arrived in 1688. The Huguenots had fled from anti-Protestant persecution in Catholic France to the Netherlands, where the VOC offered them free passage to the Cape as well as farmland. The Huguenots brought important experience in wine production to the Cape, greatly bolstering the industry, as well as providing strong cultural roots. The 1700s[edit] Map of Cape Town in 1750 By 1754, the population of the settlement on the Cape had reached 5,510 Europeans and 6,729 slaves. But by 1780, France and Great Britain went to war against each other. The Netherlandsentered the war on the French side, and thus a small garrison of French troops were sent to the Cape to protect it against the British. These troops, however, left by 1784. By 1795, however, theNetherlands was invaded by France and the VOC was in complete financial ruin. The Prince of Orange fled to England for protection, which allowed for the establishment of the Dutch Batavian Republic. Due to the long time it took to send and receive news from Europe, the Cape Commissioner of the time knew only that the French had been taking territory in the Netherlands and that the Dutch could change sides in the war at any moment. British forces arrived at the Cape bearing a letter from the Prince of Orange asking the Commissioner to allow the British troops to protect the Cape from France until the war. The British informed the Commissioner that the Prince had fled to England. The reaction in the Cape Council was mixed, and eventually the British successfully invaded the Cape in the Battle of Muizenberg. The British immediately announced the beginning of free trade. As elsewhere in Africa and other parts of the world, trading in slaves was a significant activity. A notable event was the mutiny, in 1766, of the slaves on the slaver ship Meermin.[9][10] The 1800 and 1900s[edit] An 1800s map of Cape Town Under the terms of a peace agreement between England and France, the Cape was returned to the Dutch in 1802. Three years later, however, the war resumed and the British returned their garrison to the Cape after defeating Dutch forces at the Battle of Blaauwberg (1806).[11] This period saw major developments for the city, and can be said to be the start of Cape Town as a city in its own right. Taps and iron pipes were installed along major streets in the city. The native inhabitants were forced to declare a fixed residence and were not permitted to move between regions without written permission. The war between France and England ended in 1814 with a British victory. The British drew up a complex treaty whereby pieces of real estate were exchanged for money by various countries. The Cape was permanently taken from the Dutch by the British in return for a large sum of money. In this period, the British saw the control of the Cape as key to their ability to maintain their command in India. The Dutch government was too impoverished and depleted to argue, and agreed with the condition that they be allowed to continue to use the Cape for repairs and refreshment. The vagrancy and pass laws of 1809 were repealed in 1829. Thus, the Hottentots, in theory, were equal with the Europeans. As in the rest of the British Empire, slaves – estimated to be around 39,000 in number – were emancipated in 1834. This led to the establishment of the Bo-Kaap by a Muslim community after being freed. The Cape Town Legislative Council was also established in the same year. One of the most momentous events in South African history, the Great Trek (Afrikaans: die Groot Trek), began in 1836. About 10,000 Dutch families, for various reasons, left for the north in search of new land, thereby opening up the interior of the country. Further political development occurred in 1840 when the Cape Town Municipality was formed. At its inception, the population stood at 20,016, of which 10,560 were white. Ensuing political developments now saw gradual moves towards greater independence from Britain and towards a degree of political inclusiveness. In 1854, the Cape Colony elected its first parliament, on the basis of the multiracial Cape Qualified Franchise, whereby suffrage qualifications applied universally, regardless of race. After a long political struggle, this was followed by responsible governmentin 1872, when the Cape won the right to elect its own locally-accountable executive and Prime Minister. A period of strong economic growth and social development ensued, with a rapid expansion of the Cape Government Railways and other infrastructure, connecting Cape Town to the Capes vast interior.[12] View of Wale Street, Cape Town c. 1905 The discovery and subsequent exploitation of diamonds and gold in the former Transvaal region in the central highveld in the 1870s and 1880s led to rapid change in Cape Town, as well as in Cape Colony as a whole. In particular, the rise to power of the ambitious colonialist Cecil Rhodes, fueled by the new diamond industry, led to great instability. On becoming the Capes new Prime Minister, he restricted the multiracial Cape franchise, and instigated a rapid expansion of British influence into the hinterland. A rise in inter-ethnic tensions ensued, followed by the Anglo-Boer War.[13] As the city of Johannesburg grew from the gold fields, Cape Town lost its position as the single dominant city in the region, but, as the primary port, it nonetheless benefitted from the increased trade to the region. The mineral wealth generated in this period laid the foundation for an industrialised society. This period marked the first incident of segregation in the city. Following an outbreak of bubonic plague which was blamed on the native Africans, the natives were moved to two locations outside of the city, one of which was near the docks and the other at Ndabeni, about six km east of the city. The Apartheid years[edit] The latter settlement was the start of what would later develop into the townships of the Cape Flats. In 1948, the National Party stood for election on its policy of racial segregation, later known as apartheid. After a series of bitter court and constitutional battles, the already limited voting rights of the Coloured community in Cape Province were revoked. In 1966, the once-vibrant District Six area was bulldozed and declared a white-only area.[14] This and many similar declarations under the Group Areas Act resulted in whole communities being uprooted and relocated to the Cape Flats. Under apartheid, the Cape was considered a Coloured labour preference area, to the exclusion of Black Africans. The government tried for decades to remove largely Xhosa squatter camps, such as Crossroads, which were the focal point for black resistance in the Cape area to the policies of apartheid. In the last forced removal, between May and June 1986, an estimated 70,000 people were expelled from their homes. Recent times[edit] Hours after being released from prison on 11 February 1990, Nelson Mandela made his first public speech in decades from the balcony of the Cape Town City Hall, heralding the beginning of a new era for South Africa. In late August 1998, a terrorist explosion rocked the citys packed Planet Hollywood restaurant, killing one and injuring dozens.[15] 1. Catch a cable car up Table Mountain... ...then abseil back down. If you fancy following a rope 112 metres down Table Mountain (and we’d recommend it as the world’s highest commercial abseil even if it wasnt for the views), then Abseil Africa (297 Long Street, 021 424 4760, abseilafrica.co.za) is your best bet. The less adventurous can catch the Table Mountain Aerial Cableway up... and back down. The quick ride will give you a bird’s eye view of the City Bowl. The summit can also be reached on foot through a multitude of beautiful albeit exhausting, trails. If you want a longer experience – spending up to five nights in tented camps – take the long-distance Hoerikwaggo Trail (sanparks.org) up from the Cape of Good Hope. See all major attractions in Cape Town 2. Dive into shark-infested waters Just when you thought it was safe to go into the water… South Africa has an incredibly diverse shark population. A quarter of the world’s shark species (98 to be precise) dwell in South African waters and around 40 of these call the waters around Cape Town home. Adrenalin junkies will want to make the 175-kilometre (110-mile) journey to Gansbaii, the white shark capital of the world. Shark cage diving is big business here and the tourism bureau endorses a whopping eight companies. Most charge around R1,100 for a session, but offer different packages (refreshments, shuttle service to and from Cape Town and so on) so phone around to find one that suits your needs. Try Great White Shark Tours (028 384 1418/083 300 2138/sharkcagediving.net); Marine Dynamics (028 384 1005/082 380 3405/sharkwatchsouthafrica); Shark Diving Unlimited (028 384 2787/082 441 4555/sharkdivingunlimited); Shark Lady 028 312 3287/083 746 8985/sharklady.co.za; UnrealDive (021 553 0748/083 273 4920/unrealdive); White Shark Ecoventures 021 532 0470/083 412 3733/white-shark-diving); or White Shark Projects (028 384 1774/076 245 5880/whitesharkprojects.co.za). Alternatively, take the safer option and visit the Two Oceans Aquarium. The I&J Predator Tank is the pièce de résistance, with its mob of ocean predators, including ragged tooth sharks, blue stingrays and black mussel crackers, all drifting together in seeming harmony – until feeding time, that is (3pm). See all zoos & wildlife parks in Cape Town 3. Get the gastronomy juices flowing Cape Towns best gastronomy is to be found dotted around the central city. Try Jardine for pared down, subtle flavours (dishes might include tender Chalmar beef fillet with oxtail, and tomatoey West Coast crayfish risotto),Bizerca Bistro for bistro classics with a fresh twist brought to you by award-winning chef Laurent Deslandes, or La Colombe, where chef Luke Dale-Roberts wows foodies from across the globe with the likes of springbok medallions with celeriac purée in a rich port and truffle sauce. See all restaurants & cafés in Cape Town 4. Take a lesson in South African history Robben Island and the District Six Museum are must-visits for anyone interested in South Africas period of apartheid, which came to an end in 1990. The fascinating and inspirational Robben Island is a symbol both of centuries of cruel oppression and the triumph of hope. It has become synonymous with the former leader of the free and democratic South Africa, Nelson Mandela, who spent 18 years in its maximum security prison. The award-winning community museum, District Six lays bare the time when the ruling government declared the area ‘whites only’ and over 60,000 of its residents were forcibly taken from their homes and shipped out to the Cape Flats, before their houses were reduced to rubble. See all museums & attractions in Cape Town 5. Explore the continent’s unique tastes and flavours Cape Town offers adventurous eaters tastes from across the African continent, be it Xhosa fare like samp (crushed maize used in porridge) and marog (African spinach), spongy injeras (flatbreads) from Ethiopia, or Cape Malay cuisine. For an authentic taste of Cape Malay food (samosas, lamb denningvleis, or mild chicken kalya) head to Biesmiellah’s. For dishes from across the local spectrum, try Nyoni’s Kraal, which serves braaivleis (barbecue), Malay curries, amangina (chicken feet) and smileys (sheep’s heads). For something more universally appealing, try the Africa Café, where you’ll have your pick of everything from Xhosa spinach patties and Mozambican peri-peri prawns to Ethiopian lamb. Mama Africa is another Pan-African treat, boasting a live (and loud) Congolese band and as much meat from feathered, scaled and furry beasts as you can eat, all served with a side of samp and pap (mealie meal porridge). There’s more African food at Marco’s African Place. The menu includes specialities like Zwelethu’s Favourite Chicken (simmered with onions and peppers) and a platter of pan-fried springbok, ostrich and kudu fillets. End your meal with the tongue-in-cheek Group Areas dessert, comprised of white and dark chocolate mousses. You can taste the food of Ethiopia at the beautiful and authentically decorated Addis in Cape, where you are encouraged to eat with your hands, mopping up every drop sauce with pieces of injera (flatbread). See all restaurants & cafés in Cape Town 6. Walk a Museum Mile Running straight as an arrow down the leafy haven of Company’s Gardens (a symbolic silent bell stands testimony to the slaves who once toiled in this former vegetable garden) is the oak-lined pedestrian strip of Government Avenue, providing access to Adderley Street, the National Gallery (with permanent and temporary exhibitions showcasing South African art spanning the centuries, as well as the occasional retrospectives of the likes of Picasso and Marelene Dumas), Houses of Parliament (buildings which have seen their fair share of action though the years), the Iziko Museum(home to the animal kingdom in taxidermy form), the Iziko Planetarium(which covers all things celestial), and the Iziko Slave Lodge (built by the Dutch East India Company to house up to 9,000 slaves, convicts and the mentally ill). See all museums & attractions in Cape Town 7. Drink in the Long Street vibe Long Street is the place for partying: bars like Julep (one of Cape Town’s best-kept secrets, with bare brick walls, comfy couches and a spectacular selection of cocktails) and the Waiting Room (a cosy, unpretentious bar with retro chairs and lighting of the kind that your granny might have had. There’s also a stunning roof deck for hanging out on those hot summer nights), while Neighbourhood has a laid-back feel and a vast balcony from which to watch the goings-on on the street below. See all bars & pubs in Cape Town 8. Dip your toes into hidden waters To avoid squealing kids, whirring jet-skis and wayward Frisbees, head to one of these secluded sandy shores for some undisturbed rest and relaxation. Beta Beach Situated a convenient ten minutes’ drive from the city centre, this postage-stamp-sized beach is flanked by big boulders, which makes it great for swimming as well as uninterrupted sun-bathing. Oudekraal Oudekraal lies right next door to Beta Beach. It offers a protected cove at the bottom of a steep set of stairs, which is surrounded by a thicket of milkwood trees. Since this area forms part of the Table Mountain National Park, there’s a R10 entrance fee, but it’s a negligible amount to pay for the splendour that waits inside. Smitswinkelbaai Further out of town, and heading in the direction of Cape Point, keep a lookout for the tiny gravelled parking area by the side of the road between Simon’s Town and the Cape of Good Hope Nature Reserve. Once there, dash across the road and commence a 15-minute downward amble along the overgrown footpath until you reach the unspoilt, isolated Smitswinkelbaai. The view of the lush valley is well worth the extra effort involved in getting here and the calm water makes for great snorkelling. Tietiesbaai Just under two hours’ drive from town, Tietiesbaai is situated in the Cape Columbine Reserve on the West Coast. It boasts carpets of colourful wild flowers in spring and a guaranteed soundtrack of silence thanks to the prohibition of anything that blares, barks, roars and whirrs. 9. Take home an African memento Savvy visitors know to come with a half-empty suitcase ready to fill up with well-priced buys for themselves, friends and families, a portion of which is reserved for African mementos. Visit the Pan African Market (a gem for Victorian tiling, old fok art, and custom-tailored garments) and Greenmarket Square (offers a full range of African folk art plus well-priced CDs and souvenir clothing) for a real-deal bargaining experience. For quality gifts and souvenirs head to Heartworks (abuzz with a broad range of local crafts hailing from locations as diverse as rural Africa and cutting-edge urban studios), Imagenius (a stylish horn of plenty, fusing neo-Rococo with modern third-world knick-knacks), and Baraka (something for all tastes, ranging from wire woven baskets, cacti and pop-art pics to authentic African masks and beautifully bound Indian leather notebooks). For homeware make tracks to Africa Nova (an encyclopedic treasure chest of Pan-Africa objets) or African Image, where Africana is juxtaposed with modern transitional pieces, and for antiques get along to Lütge Gallery. See all shops in Cape Town 10. Waddle down to a penguin colony Enjoy some beach time with the endearing jackass penguins (so-called because of their unrefined singing voices that resemble those of braying jackasses) who call the African Penguin Colony at Boulder’s Beach home. For R5 extra, you can spy on slippery sea life or beach babes through the binoculars dotting the walkway. See all zoos & wildlife parks in Cape Town 11. Eat something fishy Some of the world’s finest tuna can be found off South Africa’s shores and luckily Cape Towns chefs snap some of it up before it’s shipped to Japan. Order fresh tuna just-seared – anything more and the flavour will be destroyed. The prawns you’ll find on local menus are generally well priced and portions plentiful – ask for yours peri-peri: the spice makes all the difference. Capetonians are big on line-caught fish and if yellowtail or cob is on offer, be sure to order it. But try to steer clear of kingklip, as it’s on the soon-to-be-threatened list. Restaurants are increasingly aware of eco-friendly seafood choices and if you’re not sure that the special of the day is above board, simply text the fish name to 079 499 8795 and you’ll get an SMS response giving the red (no), orange (maybe) or green (yes) status of the fish you’re thinking of ordering. Not sure where to start? If you’re watching your wallet, the cheap and cheerful offerings of the Ocean Basket chain are ideal (oceanbasket.co.za; branches around the city). Nobu is on the opposite end of the price scale, but a culinary and seafood experience par excellence, as is Baia. Miller’s Thumb in the City Bowl is a family favourite, with the freshest fare treated with care. Willoughby & Co, at the V&A Waterfront, remains one of the city’s most popular sushi and seafood destinations, while you can’t go wrong with fish and chips from Texies on Grand Parade. See all restaurants & cafés in Cape Town 12. Relax and unwind in a palace of pampering Cape Town has all the ingredients for an alluring city break: sun, sea, shopping and thankfully, if hedonism’s your bag, quality spas too. Here’s our round-up of the best rest and relaxation spots. Cape Towns best spas 13. Toast the Cape Winelands It’s only an hour’s drive from Cape Town – though it’s a very scenic hour – but the famous Cape Winelands feel like a different world. There are rolling vineyards, towering mountains, historic wine estates and more than enough wine to keep even the thirstiest old soak satisfied. Cape wine enjoys an impressive reputation, and the Winelands are home to most of South Africa’s premier wine estates. The good news is that nearly every farm and estate in the area offers wine-tasting: you’ll need a designated driver, though. Paarl, Franschhoek and Stellenbosch are the largest, nearest and most famous towns in the region, but the further you go the more you’ll discover. The Winelands, and their rustic, rural gems such as Robertson and Montagu, offer more than just wine presses and vineyards. Visit the Cape Town & Western Cape tourist board website (tourismcapetown.co.za) for general information about the Winelands, and the following regional tourist board websites for specifics: Paarl (paarlonline), Franschhoek (franschhoek.org.za) and Stellenbosch (tourismstellenbosch.co.za). Fairview Wine Estate The cheeky goats in front of the Goatshed Restaurant love kidding around for the cameras. They have completely stolen the limelight from all that this lovely wine estate has to offer: three wineries producing well-loved wines; a cheesery and a range of top-notch olive oils. Suid-Agter-Paarl Road, Southern Paarl (021 863 2450/fairview.co.za). Stellenbosch American Express Wine Route At this dedicated Wine Route office, staff are on hand to help you tailor-make your own tour to suit your priorities: big, classic wines or new, unusual tastes; restaurants; or child-friendly activities. Wine Route Office, 36 Market Street (021 886 4310/wineroute.co.za). 14. Swan about in the St-Tropez of Cape Town Dubbed the St-Tropez of Cape Town, this classy cove offers an array of swish bars and restaurants, Riviera-style palm trees and yachts bobbing on the water. As you cruise down the Victoria Road stretch, the rows of ritzy drinking holes with their blinged-up, tanned-to-a-tee and beautiful patrons mean that you’re unlikely to be winning any best-dressed trophies should you turn up in flip-flops and a weather-beaten sarong. At the northern, and less busy, end of the beach surfers wait for a few killer waves; at the southern end, you can practise your bobbing skills in the tidal pool. Read more about Cape Towns areas 15. Go to the heart of the art scene At the foot of Devil’s Peak, the tattered suburb of Woodstock is fast becoming Cape Town’s new art centre. Worn Victorian buildings are getting new licks of paint, while derelict warehouses are being transformed into swish art galleries. Not too long ago the area’s gang-ridden reputation branded it a no-go territory for the affluent. Today, the gallery names lining the streets read like a who’s-who of the local contemporary art scene. Indie outfit What if the World (created as a community-conscious platform for emerging young artists to strut their stuff) was the first to take the plunge; other stalwarts soon followed, with the Goodman Gallery Cape (the creator of which made the careers of the biggest names in South African art today) pioneering the migration and Michael Stevenson (which showcases an international collection of contemporary art in a swish, industrial-looking space) and Bell-Roberts (where the focus is on prize-winning Cape-based art stars) following hot on its heels. See all art venues in Cape Town 16. Sip the best afternoon tea in the world Get ready to arch your pinky: the Mount Nelson Hotel, known by locals as the Pink Palace, boasts the best afternoon tea in the world – and a host of international foodies and travel writers agree. See all restaurants & cafés in Cape Town 17. Pick up some local bling The African continent is rich in both precious gemstones and metals, as well as jewellery design talent. If a visit to the V&A Waterfront is on the cards, there are plenty of slick jewellery spots to visit, while contemporary jewellery-lovers feel right at home at bastion of local design Tinsel (021 448 6183, tinsel.co.za) at the Old Biscuit Mill in Woodstock, featuring cutting-edge pieces by a mixed bag of designers. Olive Green Cat (79 Kloof Street, Gardens, 021 424 1101,olivegreencat) is the shared shop and studio of young guns Ida-Elsje and Philippa Green, and a must-stop for those who like to stay on the cutting edge of jewellery design. And for an all-in-one experience, visit the newly opened Jewellery Avenue (021 446 4600) in the heart of the city (corner of Hout and Burg streets), with more than 20 stores carrying everything from Afro-chic crafty items to custom-made pieces and bargain diamond buys. Visit Afrogem (64 New Church Street, Gardens, 021 424 0848) for a fascinating factory tour and insight into the jewels that come from the continent and the Gold of Africa Museum to see the largest assortment of African gold objects in the world. See all museums & attractions in Cape Town 18. Discover the Cape Jazz rhythm Cape Town’s jazz scene is a crucial part of its heritage. The city’s rich jazz tradition stems from artists finding inspiration in their struggles during the apartheid years. Since then, the music has evolved into its own genre, Cape Jazz, a style with a distinct African spice. It’s a way of life in the Cape – and you’ll find it everywhere from the heart of the townships to the most lavish cigar lounge. The number of jazz festivals and venues speaks for itself, and events like the Cape Town International Jazz Festival (021 422 5651/capetownjazzfest) and the Jazzathon (021 696 6961/082 450 0079/jazzathon.co.za) draw enthusiasts from all over the world. Read more about festivals & events in Cape Town 19. Knock back a glass of Karate Water Brandy and coke is a favourite local tipple, known colloquially as ‘Klippies and coke’, after popular local brandy Klipdrift. Another local name for it is Karate Water (because consumption is said to induce drunken bravado). See all bars & pubs in Cape Town 20. Pull on some skinny jeans Indie rock in Cape Town has become a genre that is embraced by almost every subculture from emo girls with asymmetrical hair and impossibly tight jeans to jock types more typically taken with Jagerbombs and rugby. From the guitar-heavy indie pop sounds of Eat This, Horse! – who can be heard at venues like Evol and Zula Sound Bar – to the grooving synthesizers of Unit R, Capetonian bands span the genre.
Posted on: Tue, 28 Oct 2014 14:35:34 +0000
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