Fashion Review Savile Row for Summer By SUZY MENKES Published: June 21, 2013 LONDON — Green grass as far as the eye can see, gentlemen in vanilla-white suits and rakish straw hats, cricket bats as a fashion accessory — could anything be more quintessentially British? The collaboration between Lord’s Cricket Ground, hallowed territory for that sport, and Savile Row, the only destination for lovers of tailoring, came together for what the organizers described as a “grand match.” The designer Tommy Hilfiger, a devotee of Savile Row style for his personal wardrobe, joined well-known cricketers and models for heritage tailoring brands, including James Lock & Co., which dates to 1676. Figures in cream suits, striped blazers and V-necked suits in pastel colors clustered around the lawns or in the Long Room, historically a hushed center for the kind of cricket-loving gentlemen who are captured in paintings on the walls. The 34 brands represented at the event pointed up the changes in weight and performance of once-traditional fabrics, while Woolmark, which sponsored the day, underscored the importance of “cool wool.” Huntsman followed that route with a single-breasted three-button navy blazer in mohair and wool teamed with cream pants. Its creative director, Roubi L’Roubi, declared that “simple, basic pieces in light wools in signature Huntsman shapes take our customer through the changeable summer climate.” Anda Rowland, vice chairman of Anderson & Sheppard, a favorite with Princes William and Harry, emphasized the importance of the softly draped suit to the brand. She also commented on the international companies that are investing in Savile Row companies, like Trinity Limited of China, which now owns Gieves & Hawkes and Kent & Curwen. Back at Savile Row, which runs parallel to Regent’s Street in central London, Mayor Boris Johnson, famous for a rumpled look, did his best to smarten up with a bespoke suit and Church’s brogues. He was promoting the 10 fashion categories that the Victoria and Albert Museum says was founded this street of tailors, including the bowler hat, the three-piece suit, trench coats, tweed and brogues. Mr. Johnson, introducing a map of men’s wear tailors, said, “If you are an aspiring member of the bourgeoisie in Dubai or Shanghai and want to show to peers you have arrived — come to London kit yourself out. “London is to the suit as Parma is to Parmesan cheese,” the mayor said. “And when the big cheeses of the world want to get themselves properly attired, they come to our great country.” The British ability to give a witty wink at British heritage was shown throughout “London Collections: Men,” which closed on Wednesday. Sunrise colors — shades of pale blue, shell pink and mother-of-pearl — gave a vacation touch to suits in lightweight fabrics at Richard James. Sportswear had a shapely ease without being too sloppy. And the casual elegance was completed by colorful footwear like flower-patterned espadrilles, a strong trend coming out of London. For Jeremy Hackett, the 1960s and especially the photographs of Terry O’Neill set the scene for a spiffy look at British men’s wear. Aided by a live performance from the London Philharmonic Orchestra, the colorful collection included the traditional seersucker suit, but in Easter chick yellow, wide-striped jackets and a checked suit with matching checked tie. The finale was a lineup of sportswear — blazer, cabled sweater and striped vest — all set off with kneepads and bats to prove that the men’s fashion inspiration of the season is cricket.
Posted on: Sat, 22 Jun 2013 05:29:08 +0000
Trending Topics
Recently Viewed Topics
© 2015