How to Crochet a Round Rag Rug Simple Crochet Rug Pattern/Tutorial There are many crochet rug patterns out there: square crochet rugs, round crochet rugs, doily type rugs…so many styles to choose from and each one unique in its own way. Of course I can just write down a pattern for you, but I’m all about the teaching. So instead of giving you one specific crochet rug pattern, I want to help you understand the principles behind the round rag rug, so that you can make as many of them as you wish, adapting them as it suits you. In the table below you can find the instructions/pattern for a basic circle rag rug using single, half-double or double crochet stitches. You will need T-shirt yarn OR non-stretch fabric yarn OR wool/yarn (lots and lots of strands) 10 mm crochet hook OR 15 mm crochet hook Strong arms! Different Materials Jersey Cotton Crochet Rug Made using t-shirt yarn This Rug was made using jersey cotton t-yarn cut into 2 cm strips. If you don’t know what t-yarn is or how to make it, take a quick look at my tutorial on how to make t-shirt yarn (t-yarn). I had to alter the amount of increases in my pattern quite a bit as I went, because some of the fabric pulled into yarn quite easily while other colours just did not want to “tube”. Also, the red and blue (which tubed well – is that even a word??) were way more elastic than the other colours, which made a difference as well. If you use an elastic material, it is very difficult to keep your tension the same and because this is the kind of project that will keep you busy for a few nights, there is just NO WAY that your tension will be the same night after night. When I’m pissed off, I crochet so tight that I can’t get into my own stitches. And when I’m tired I tend to work quite loosely. So if you put those two variables together AND add some fabric with a completely different elasticity, you are bound to run into a bit of trouble. This is why I think that understanding the logic behind the rug (that is how to get rid of ruffles or a bowl shape) can help prevent this EASY project turning into a nightmare! Cotton/Linen Crochet Rug Made using fabric yarn You can make your own fabric yarn ( I don’t think the name Farn will ever catch on) by cutting a duvet cover or some sheets into strips. As with the t-yarn, 2 cm strips work the best, being neither too thick (difficult to work with) or too thin (might tear easily). I prefer using a duvet cover as it is already in a tube (once you’ve cut the bottom off) and can be cut in the same way as the t-shirt yarn above, just on a way bigger scale. But if you have separate strips of fabric that you would like to link together, this tutorial by Crochet Is The Way has some very clear photos on joining strips of fabric to each other without sewing. The advantage of using non-stretch fabric yarn is that it acts very much like yarn would in that it does not buckle and bow quite as easily as jersey cotton. The disadvantage of using non-stretch fabric for your crochet rug is that it does not stretch AT ALL. So where yarn would give you a little bit of stretch, making it easy to get into stitches on subsequent rounds, non-stretch fabric yarn does not budge. To avoid the resulting finger-cramp, remember to loosen your tension when working with non-stretch fabric yarn. You will save yourself a lot of cursing! Wool/Yarn Crochet Rug Made using wool or yarn A Rag rug made using wool or yarn will not last as long as one made with non-stretch fabric yarn. But wool/yarn is by far the easiest material to use when making a crochet rag rug. So if you want a project that grows at the speed of light, that doesn’t tax your brain, that can be as pretty as you choose (because you choose the colours, baby!)…if you want a quick and simple brain-in-hibernation-mode project, then a crochet rug made from yarn is just the thing for you. You will need 4 to 8 strands of double knit yarn (or 3 to 6 strands of chunky yarn) and a good tv series. How to Crochet a Round Rag Rug These directions are accurate for working with wool and the correct crochet hook. However, you might need to start with one or two more – or less – stitches than set out in this table, depending on the thickness and elasticity of your yarn of choice. When you work with fabric yarn you enter a whole realm of fuid variables, so do a round or two and see how you go. If your initial rounds pull up like a bowl, undo and add a stitch or two to the very first round. If your initial round is wavy like a tutu, start with one or two stitches less. The number of increases in every round will be x, where x is the initial number of stitches worked into the central ring. I hope this tutorial makes sense and helps at least one person make a spiffing rug. Abbreviations US Terminology used Ch – Chain Dc – Double Crochet Dc Inc – Double Crochet Increase (make 2 dc’s in the same st) Hdc – Half-double Crochet Hdc Inc – Half-double Crochet Increase (make 2 hdc’s in the same st) Sc – Single Crochet Sc Inc – Sc increase (make 2 sc’s in the same st) Sl st – Slip Stitch St – Stitch * * Please note: Repeat all instructions between asterisks the number of times stipulated. For example: *sc inc, sc* x 2, will mean: sc inc, sc, sc inc, sc. These instructions are written for joining in the round. If you wish to work in a spiral instead, simply skip the sl st and the initial ch st/st’s in each round and continue, making the first st of each round in the first st of the previous round. The initial ch st’s in each round do not count as a st. Crochet Rug Pattern/Tutorial Using Single Crochet Stitches Half-double Crochet Stitches Double Crochet Stitches Increases per round 6 8 11 To start Ch 2. Ch 4 and join with a slst to form a ring. Ch 4 and join with a slst to form a ring. Round 1 6 x sc into 2nd ch from hook. Join to the first st with a sl st. 6 Ch 2. 8 x hdc into the ring. Join by making a slst into the top of the first hdc. 8 Ch3. 11 x dc into the ring. Join by making a slst into the top of the first dc. 11 Round 2 Ch 1. Sc inc in each st around. Join to the first st with a sl st. 12 Ch 2 . Hdc inc in the next st and each st around.The last hdc inc will fall in the back end of the sl st join, which is quite tight, but that is how I learned to crochet (and design). Join to the first hdc with a sl st. 16 Ch3. Dc inc in the next st and each st around.The last dc inc will fall in the back end of the sl st join, which is quite tight, but that is how I learned to crochet (and design). Join to the first dc with a sl st. 22 Round 3 Ch 1. *Sc inc, sc* x 6. Join to the first st with a sl st.See the note below if you have increased or decreased the amount of stitches in your first round. 18 Ch 2 . *Hdc inc, hdc* x 8. Join to the first st with a sl st.See the note below if you have increased or decreased the amount of stitches in your first round. 24 Ch3. *Dc inc, dc* x 11. Join to the first st with a sl st.See the note below if you have increased or decreased the amount of stitches in your first round. 33 Round 4 Ch 1. *Sc inc, 2 x sc* x 6. Join to the first st with a sl st. 24 Ch 2 . *Hdc inc, 2 x hdc* x 8. Join to the first st with a sl st. 32 Ch3. *Dc inc, 2 x dc* x 11. Join to the first st with a sl st. 44 Round 5 Ch 1. *Sc inc, 3 x sc* x 6. Join to the first st with a sl st. 30 Ch 2 . *Hdc inc, 3 x hdc* x 8. Join to the first st with a sl st. 40 Ch3. *Dc inc, 3 x dc* x 11. Join to the first st with a sl st. 55 To continue You should now see a pattern emerging. In every round, increase the number of single stitches between increases by one. To finish Ch 1. Sc in every stitch around. Join by making a sl st into the first st. Ch 1 and bind off. If your circle pulls up like a bowl Decrease the number of st’s between increases by one. This might mess up your counting a bit, but it will only affect the number of st’s after your last increase and you will have one more increase in every round.For subsequent rounds, continue the pattern as set out above. Eg. Number of st’s between increases: 0,1,2,3,4,4,5,6 If your circle buckles Work one round without any increases, so sc/hdc/dc in each st.If your circle still buckles, work another round without increases and then start the pattern where you left off. Note: If you increase/decrease the number of stitches in the initial round, this will affect the number of increases in each round. So if you start with 5 sc’s in the first round, you will repeat the pattern between asterisks 5 times in every subsequent round and your total number of stitches will be multiples of 5. If you start with 7 stitches in the first round, you will repeat the pattern between asterisks 7 times in each round, making your total number of stitches a multiple of 7. Like I have already mentioned: this is not an exact science. But once you understand the basics, you should find it easier to spot when you need to increase more/less to make your rug stay flat.
Posted on: Thu, 13 Mar 2014 16:08:05 +0000
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