Indoor Seed Starting Instructions 1. Gather Materials Containers - Purchase pots and flats or save containers such as egg cartons and yogurt cups. Used pots should be sterilized well by soaking in a mix of 1 part bleach to 10 parts water. Seed Starting Mix - Seeds do best in a soilless seed starting mix where they receive better drainage than most potting mixes provide. Starting mixes usually do not contain fertilizer. Do not use garden soil indoors for seed starting. Potting Mix – When vegetable seedlings outgrow their starter containers, they can be “potted up” into larger containers of potting mix. Potting mixes generally contain some fertilizer. Seeds – University of Maryland has a recommended varieties list. Many of those varieties possess insect and disease resistance. Check seed viability and remember that you will need open pollinated varieties and some planning if you intend on saving seeds. Labels/markers – Always label as you go. You will not remember later. Plastic Bags, Wraps or Covers - These will trap warmth and humidity where the seeds need it. Water – Pre-dampen seeding and potting mixes before filling containers and water well after sowing seeds. Light Source - Florescent, LED, and high-density plant lights are wonderful. South-facing windowsills can work, but not nearly as well as a grow light or greenhouse. Fan - Use a fan to provide air circulation. This will also strengthen your transplants as the wind would naturally. Fertilizer – Use a balanced fertilizer for seedlings and young transplants. Avoid foliage contact. 2. Fill Containers Loosen and dampen the mix before placing it into your seed starting containers. It is easier to get a uniform level of moisture and if you do it this way. Dampen the mix to the consistency of a rung-out sponge. It should be wet, but not dripping, and have no dry clumps. Think dark chocolate in color, not milk chocolate. Dont pack the starting mix into the container. Fill each container about 2/3’s full and lightly tap the container on a flat surface to help the starting mix settle. Gently rake off the excess seed starting mix with your hand or a small board. 3. Sow Seeds Read the seed package and/or another reliable source’s special instructions for that plant. Some seeds may require stratification, scarification, or soaking. Small seeds can be sprinkled on top of the potting mix. Larger seeds can be counted out and planted individually. Use at least 3 seeds per container, since not all seeds will germinate and survive. Cover the seeds with more dampened starting mix to the appropriate depth. Generally, the smaller the seed, the less covering it needs. Some seeds, like lettuce, require light to germinate and should barely be covered. Label your planting containers as you go. Make sure that the ink is waterproof. Record your plantings. Although the seed starting mix was pre-dampened, it is still important to water in freshly planted seeds. This ensures good contact between the seed and the starting mix. Do not allow your potting mix to completely dry out and avoid watering too often. 4. The Greenhouse Effect Cover you containers loosely with some type of plastic. This will help hold in both heat and moisture. If you have special seed starting trays with plastic covers, use those. Be sure to allow airflow under the plastic so that you do not encourage mold. 5. Warm Location Move your container to a warm, draft free spot and check it daily. Most seeds germinate best when the temperature is between 65 and 70 degrees F. The top of a refrigerator is an ideal spot or you could consider purchasing heating mats specially made for germinating seed. 6. Emergence of Cotyledons Once your seedlings begin poking through the soil, they will start to straighten up and unfold. Two leaf-like structures, called cotyledons, will appear. These are actually part of the seed and serve as food sources until true leaves are formed and the plant is capable of photosynthesis. At this point, move the seedlings under a light source. 7. Light and Air Once seedlings appear, ample light will be necessary. Florescent lights are common and should be placed 1-2 inches from the seedlings and kept on 14 to 16 hours per day. The best way to provide regular, long doses of light is to attach your plant lights to an automatic timer. Air circulation is critical to plants at all stages of growth. Use a fan to create better airflow in your growing environment. 8. True Leaves and Fertilizer As the seedlings grow, the cotyledons will subside and the first true leaves will form. This is when your seedlings begin actively photosynthesizing. Since they are growing in a starter mix, you will need to fertilize at this point. Use a well-balanced, half-strength liquid fertilizer. Kelp products are useful at this stage due to their bio-stimulant properties. 9. Potting up If more than one seedling is growing in the same pot, either separate the seedlings into individual pots or cut off all but the strongest seedling. When thinning, use scissors to avoid injuring the roots of the seedlings that you wish to keep. Seedlings can remain in their original containers until you are ready to plant them in their permanent spots. However, it is common to move the seedlings into a larger pot once several sets of leaves have formed. 3 to 4 inch pots are good sizes to pot up to, allowing plenty of room for root growth. Use a potting mix and remember to dampen it before filling your sterilized containers. 10. Hardening Off By the time the temperature warms outside, you should have healthy, young transplants. Before moving them out into the garden, take a week or two to gradually introduce them to their new growing environment. This is called hardening off. It gives the plants a chance to acclimate to sunlight, drying winds and climate changes. Move the plants to a shady spot each sunny day for several days in a row gradually increasing the amount of sunlight that the plants receive. Bring the seedlings back inside if the temperature goes below 45 degrees F during the day or 50 degrees F at night.
Posted on: Tue, 11 Mar 2014 15:53:38 +0000
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