Long-wear Concepts In today’s market, long-wearing lipstick concepts permeate. As reviewing recent commercial launches reveals, wear is an integral part of lipstick’s key attributes, and the ability for it to last is a key consideration for formulators and marketers alike. For example, D&C Red 21, a commonly used red fluorescent dye, is one raw material used to create effective, lasting color. This dye combines with moisture on the skin, staining the lips so that color remains even after the product has worn off. Also, water-insoluble dyes or bromo acid dyes such as D&C Red 21, D&C Red 27 and D&C Orange 5 have been used since the 1920s to deliver blue-red and orange-red shades.11, 12 In the early twentieth century, chemist Hazel Bishop recognized a key consumer need and addressed it when she created a lipstick claiming to be “kiss-proof.”13 The advertising campaign at the time, “It stays on you, not on him,” captured very succinctly one of the biggest problems being encountered: transfer of the product from the lips. Bishop’s attempts at developing a true long-lasting product were not without setbacks, however. Long-wearing formulas tended to dry out the lips, and this obstacle has persisted as a challenge to formulators yet today. Bishop’s lipstick incorporated dyes for staining purposes in addition to pigments, which adhered firmly to the lips to achieve lasting wear while offering a richer, more substantive lip appearance.12 Bishop’s attempts almost a century ago exemplify a concern that is still relevant today: the comfort factor. Formulators can be forgiven for believing that wear and comfort in a lip product are mutually exclusive; no sooner does one create a smooth, silky feel, then the wear is affected—and vice versa. In fact, so much so that creating a dual-ended product can be a very elegant solution to this formulation conundrum, and examples of this are common on the market today. Formulators have also turned to solvent-based ingredients to create longer-lasting lipstick. Isododecane is a solvent that can be used to help reduce product transfer. This volatile, synthetic substance flashes off on contact with the skin, binding the colorants to the lip as well as creating a lightweight and matte finish. Its very characteristics—i.e., volatile nature and lower flash point—make isododecane an excellent solvent and dispersion agent, allowing it to extend lipstick wear; however, these can also render the manufacture process more challenging. - See more at: cosmeticsandtoiletries/research/chemistry/premiumLipsticks-How-They-Have-Changed-and-Where-They-Are-Going--239944541.html#sthash.QOnB0s54.dpuf
Posted on: Tue, 06 Jan 2015 05:26:23 +0000
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