Once is was body surfing. I was riding the wave and then a second wave appeared behind it. I was sucked into the wave and pulled down. I struggled to get to the surface. It didnt work. I only went deeper into the water. I let go. I stopped struggling. The wave lifted me to the surface and dropped me on the shore. I was covered with seaweed and sand. It was a beautiful wave. Some 40 years later and I still remain friends with that wave. Very good.
Posted on: Thu, 06 Mar 2014 14:04:22 +0000
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