One person asked about how I break models down for 3D printing, and how I go about cleaning up my raft material, so I figured Id make a separate post with a few photos. I try to break the models down in such a way as to have the seams run through areas with the least amount of detail. When the parts are printed and joined together, each seam has to be filled in; if that seam happens to run through an area of high detail density, filling it it becomes much more difficult than if it simply ran over a dead area. Also, when a model is split and printed in pieces, especially using several different printers, the pieces will never line up perfectly when put together. Never ever. EVER. In 3D printing, there are always alignment issues; this has to do with difference in printer calibration, differences in plastic composition from one ABS spool to the next, temperature, print bed levelling, ABS warping, etc etc. There are literally dozens of factors. So, again, the fewer details that seam goes through, the better. Below are a few photos of the Sith Acolyte COD plate in progress: the first photo shows the model; the second photo shows the model split up into sections; the third photo shows the model pieces lined up for printing (two groups of parts to be printed on 2 separate printers). The next two photos show the parts being printed. The very last photo shows some of the finished parts being glued together (using superglue to make the initial bond). Note the gaps between parts (outlined in red). Filling this in and smoothing it out will be fairly simple given that there is virtually no detail there. But, Imagine if this seam ran through an area with high detail density - filling that in would be a nightmare! Lastly, about rafts. I do not print with rafts or supports. EVER. I find rafts work well for smaller items, but do not work at all for large objects, which tend to curl at the corners, and come right off the raft. The trick to great adhesion for a large piece is to make sure 100% of the model base comes in contact with the build plate. Rafts reduce this percentage significantly by introducing gaps (which make it easier to remove the raft afterwards), and it is precisely these gaps that cause the large model to curl and warp off the raft. Also, printing separate sections of a model with rafts becomes an alignment nightmare during assembly due to the excess material left behind by a raft/support! So, how to successfully print overhangs without raft and/or supports? Well, when I cut my models into sections, I do so in such a way that the model prints on an angle. This slants any undercuts a few degrees in a favourable direction, so that they are are no longer too steep or parallel to the ground. Sometimes, when there is lots of detail in the picture, some plastic will noodle off the steeper overhangs, but this is all easily fixed during the post processing stage when I already have my epoxy and spot putties handy. So thats that! If anyone has any questions, feel free to ask, and I will try my best to respond in a timely fashion! :)
Posted on: Mon, 17 Nov 2014 04:46:50 +0000
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