Organic Gardening Tips and Methods (Part 3) Avoiding Chemicals The conventional solution to pests and diseases relies on sprays which drench the plants and soil with chemical poisons. Organic gardeners, instead, try to help plants to resist attacks in the first place by manipulating the natural system of checks and balances in their (the plants) favour. Pesticides, even organic ones, are only used as a last resort. Controlling Pests and Diseases The aim of Organic-Gardener is the control, not the elimination. The gardener makes it difficult for pests and diseases so that plants and crops thrive in spite of them. Organic gardeners try to prevent pests and diseases from reaching the point where an organically approved pesticide is needed by building up the plants by creating stable ecosystems and by encouraging predators and parasites. Growing Healthy Plants The primary task in organic gardening is to grow healthy plants that resist attacks and endure minor infestations in much the same way a healthy human shrugs off a cold. Of all the checks to growth, water imbalance is the most common, decimated plants will die, but even if the reach wilting point, their growth will be severely checked, water logging can be equally as serious, especially in cold, low-light conditions, plants in containers are often sickened by over watering in winter and spring as they are by a drought in summer. Air and light are also important factors in preventing infection; each plant must be given sufficient space. Never crowd plants (grow a few well instead of many that are poor), vigorous and woody plants need pruning or tying in to allow air and light in and to allow access for useful predators. Hygiene Regular inspections of the garden followed by “direct-action” to remove all the directly infected material, this will significantly reduce further pest and disease attacks. For example: the removal of any infested tips control aphid attacks on broad-beans and the prompt removal and the burning or deep-burial of infected branches prevents the spread of coral spot. Secateurs’, Saws and Knives should be sterilized with surgical spirit to prevent cross-infection. Take care not to introduce any problems with bought in plants, manures or dirty tools, Keep new plants in isolation for a week or so, Never buy (or try to avoid buying) soil-grown brassica plants because of the danger of “club-root” forming. Direct/Prompt Action In addition to build the self-regulating systems, you will need to take the direct-action approach, and the earlier that action is taken, the more effective it will be. What must also be considered is the economics, in time, cash and labour of measure you take in relation to increase in yield, for example, flea beetles make short holes in radish and brassica seedlings, maintaining moist conditions reduces their damage and is worthwhile, but spraying may cost more than what a radish crop is worth. Organic Pesticides Organic gardeners prefer not to use poisonous substance unless they are needed to save a valuable crop, however, they are there as a last resort, though you must take very good care not to disrupt the ecosystems that have slowly built up. Follow the instructions on the packaging as to their uses, applications rates, timing and precautions, and keep them in a safe place under the Control of Substances Hazardous to Health (COSHH) act which is part of the health and safety acts. A list of Organic Pesticides with their advantages and disadvantages are as follow; Mix/Mixture: Advantages: Disadvantages: Bordeaux mixture; an inorganic chemical, it is a preventative allowed under organic not a cure and must standards, as it is not not be applied- harmful to humans or thoroughly soil life, effective and in good Against potato blight, time. Peach leaf curl, raspberry cane spot and many other fungal diseases. Derris; liquid or dust, which will indiscriminate in kill most insects, but is action, lethal to particularly effective - fish, pigs and against mites, treat tortoises, breaks ‘wasps’ nests by puffing down in sunlight, the dust into the entrance slower to act than at dusk and repeat after pyrethrum, is/has a week. Been under review and is no longer recommended for use. Insecticide-Soap; the preferred pesticide, ineffective against- and, more effective than- larger insect pests. Soft-Soap, safe to use and made from natural products. Pyrethrum; useful for killing many no longer available insect pests including, in pure form and small caterpillars. Commonly supplied with a synthetic synergist and kills beneficial insects and fish (but is safe for mammals). Materials: Advantages: Disadvantages: Quassia; a solution made from the it is no longer - bark of a tree that kills aphids available on its own. but is harmless to bees and other beneficial insects sold with derris, which makes both more effective. Sulphur; the pure element that is take care when using allowed under the Organic it with fruit trees and Standards as a control for bushes, as few powdery mildews on fruit, varieties are allergic flowers and vegetables, and to sulphur, always for preventing rots in over- read the label and wintering bulbs and tubers. Instructions. Soft-Soap; traditionally used as a spray none in particular. to kill aphids, red spider - mites, mealy bugs and other pests. Basics of Biological Control Bought in predators have been used commercially for some time, and many are now available to gardeners, many pests can be controlled by sprinkling on a water-borne parasite. Usually a microscopic worm called a Nematode, the soil needs to be moist and warm for this to work. For example: Leather-jackets can be parasitized by Stienernem feltiae Nematodes, applied in summer. Most biological controls are more suitable for greenhouses where pests are difficult to control because of the absence of natural predators, once they are introduced, of course, the use of pesticides has to stop they are most effective if introduced early in the season, but not before the pests have appeared or the parasites will starve. Full instructions come in/with the packets; the most widely used are the controls for: white flies, red-spider mites, aphids and mealy bugs. Biological Controls, Pest and Controls List: Pests: Controls: Aphids; Greenhouse control: once the temperature is about 10 degrees C/50 degrees F, introduce; Aphidoletes aphidomyza (predatory midge), or Aphidius (predatory wasp). Garden Control: tap lacewing larvae onto the infected plants, introduce; lacewing hotel for “over- wintering”. Caterpillars; Greenhouse Control: introduce; Bacillus thurigiensis (bacterium) in the evening. Mealy bugs; Greenhouse Control: introduce; Cryptolaenus montrouzieri (predatory ladybird) on large plants, and Hypoaspis miles (predatory mite) on small plants when the temperature is above 11-degrees-C/52- degrees-F. Red Spider Mite; Greenhouse Control: if the temperature is above 16- degrees-C/61-degrees-F, introduce; Phytoseculus persimilis (predatory mite) at first sign of infestation. Scale Insects; Greenhouse Control: when the temperature is above 14-degrees-C/57-degrees-F, introduce; Stienernema (nematode) or Metaphycus helvolus (parasitic wasp). Sciarrid Flies; Greenhouse Control: introduce; Hypoaspis miles (predatory mite) when the temperature is above 11- degrees-C/52-degrees-F. Slugs; Greenhouse Control: when the soil temperature is above 5-degrees-C/41-degress-F, apply- Phasmarhabditis hermaphrodita (pathogenic - nematode) every six weeks. Thrips; Greenhouse Control: introduce; Ambleysius (predatory mite) from late spring. Vine Weevils; Greenhouse Control: when the temperature is over 12-degrees-C/54-degrees-F, apply Heterorhabditis megedis or Steinernema carpocapsae (pathogenic nematodes). Garden Control: when the soil temperature is over 12-degrees-C/54-degrees-F, apply Pathogenic nematodes. White Flies; Greenhouse Control: once the temperature is above 10-degrees-C/50-degrees-F, introduce; Encarsia - Formosa (parasitic wasp), at first sign of infestation. 91Unlike • • Share 67 people saw this post Organic Gardening Tips and Methods (Part 3) Avoiding Chemicals The conventional solution to pests and diseases relies on sprays which drench the plants and soil with chemical poisons. Organic gardeners, instead, try to help plants to resist attacks in the first place by manipulating the natural system of checks and balances in their (the plants) favour. Pesticides, even organic ones, are only used as a last resort. Controlling Pests and Diseases The aim of Organic-Gardener is the control, not the elimination. The gardener makes it difficult for pests and diseases so that plants and crops thrive in spite of them. Organic gardeners try to prevent pests and diseases from reaching the point where an organically approved pesticide is needed by building up the plants by creating stable ecosystems and by encouraging predators and parasites. Growing Healthy Plants The primary task in organic gardening is to grow healthy plants that resist attacks and endure minor infestations in much the same way a healthy human shrugs off a cold. Of all the checks to growth, water imbalance is the most common, decimated plants will die, but even if the reach wilting point, their growth will be severely checked, water logging can be equally as serious, especially in cold, low-light conditions, plants in containers are often sickened by over watering in winter and spring as they are by a drought in summer. Air and light are also important factors in preventing infection; each plant must be given sufficient space. Never crowd plants (grow a few well instead of many that are poor), vigorous and woody plants need pruning or tying in to allow air and light in and to allow access for useful predators. Hygiene Regular inspections of the garden followed by “direct-action” to remove all the directly infected material, this will significantly reduce further pest and disease attacks. For example: the removal of any infested tips control aphid attacks on broad-beans and the prompt removal and the burning or deep-burial of infected branches prevents the spread of coral spot. Secateurs’, Saws and Knives should be sterilized with surgical spirit to prevent cross-infection. Take care not to introduce any problems with bought in plants, manures or dirty tools, Keep new plants in isolation for a week or so, Never buy (or try to avoid buying) soil-grown brassica plants because of the danger of “club-root” forming. Direct/Prompt Action In addition to build the self-regulating systems, you will need to take the direct-action approach, and the earlier that action is taken, the more effective it will be. What must also be considered is the economics, in time, cash and labour of measure you take in relation to increase in yield, for example, flea beetles make short holes in radish and brassica seedlings, maintaining moist conditions reduces their damage and is worthwhile, but spraying may cost more than what a radish crop is worth. Organic Pesticides Organic gardeners prefer not to use poisonous substance unless they are needed to save a valuable crop, however, they are there as a last resort, though you must take very good care not to disrupt the ecosystems that have slowly built up. Follow the instructions on the packaging as to their uses, applications rates, timing and precautions, and keep them in a safe place under the Control of Substances Hazardous to Health (COSHH) act which is part of the health and safety acts. A list of Organic Pesticides with their advantages and disadvantages are as follow; Mix/Mixture: Advantages: Disadvantages: Bordeaux mixture; an inorganic chemical, it is a preventative allowed under organic not a cure and must standards, as it is not not be applied- harmful to humans or thoroughly soil life, effective and in good Against potato blight, time. Peach leaf curl, raspberry cane spot and many other fungal diseases. Derris; liquid or dust, which will indiscriminate in kill most insects, but is action, lethal to particularly effective - fish, pigs and against mites, treat tortoises, breaks ‘wasps’ nests by puffing down in sunlight, the dust into the entrance slower to act than at dusk and repeat after pyrethrum, is/has a week. Been under review and is no longer recommended for use. Insecticide-Soap; the preferred pesticide, ineffective against- and, more effective than- larger insect pests. Soft-Soap, safe to use and made from natural products. Pyrethrum; useful for killing many no longer available insect pests including, in pure form and small caterpillars. Commonly supplied with a synthetic synergist and kills beneficial insects and fish (but is safe for mammals). Materials: Advantages: Disadvantages: Quassia; a solution made from the it is no longer - bark of a tree that kills aphids available on its own. but is harmless to bees and other beneficial insects sold with derris, which makes both more effective. Sulphur; the pure element that is take care when using allowed under the Organic it with fruit trees and Standards as a control for bushes, as few powdery mildews on fruit, varieties are allergic flowers and vegetables, and to sulphur, always for preventing rots in over- read the label and wintering bulbs and tubers. Instructions. Soft-Soap; traditionally used as a spray none in particular. to kill aphids, red spider - mites, mealy bugs and other pests. Basics of Biological Control Bought in predators have been used commercially for some time, and many are now available to gardeners, many pests can be controlled by sprinkling on a water-borne parasite. Usually a microscopic worm called a Nematode, the soil needs to be moist and warm for this to work. For example: Leather-jackets can be parasitized by Stienernem feltiae Nematodes, applied in summer. Most biological controls are more suitable for greenhouses where pests are difficult to control because of the absence of natural predators, once they are introduced, of course, the use of pesticides has to stop they are most effective if introduced early in the season, but not before the pests have appeared or the parasites will starve. Full instructions come in/with the packets; the most widely used are the controls for: white flies, red-spider mites, aphids and mealy bugs. Biological Controls, Pest and Controls List: Pests: Controls: Aphids; Greenhouse control: once the temperature is about 10 degrees C/50 degrees F, introduce; Aphidoletes aphidomyza (predatory midge), or Aphidius (predatory wasp). Garden Control: tap lacewing larvae onto the infected plants, introduce; lacewing hotel for “over- wintering”. Caterpillars; Greenhouse Control: introduce; Bacillus thurigiensis (bacterium) in the evening. Mealy bugs; Greenhouse Control: introduce; Cryptolaenus montrouzieri (predatory ladybird) on large plants, and Hypoaspis miles (predatory mite) on small plants when the temperature is above 11-degrees-C/52- degrees-F. Red Spider Mite; Greenhouse Control: if the temperature is above 16- degrees-C/61-degrees-F, introduce; Phytoseculus persimilis (predatory mite) at first sign of infestation. Scale Insects; Greenhouse Control: when the temperature is above 14-degrees-C/57-degrees-F, introduce; Stienernema (nematode) or Metaphycus helvolus (parasitic wasp). Sciarrid Flies; Greenhouse Control: introduce; Hypoaspis miles (predatory mite) when the temperature is above 11- degrees-C/52-degrees-F. Slugs; Greenhouse Control: when the soil temperature is above 5-degrees-C/41-degress-F, apply- Phasmarhabditis hermaphrodita (pathogenic - nematode) every six weeks. Thrips; Greenhouse Control: introduce; Ambleysius (predatory mite) from late spring. Vine Weevils; Greenhouse Control: when the temperature is over 12-degrees-C/54-degrees-F, apply Heterorhabditis megedis or Steinernema carpocapsae (pathogenic nematodes). Garden Control: when the soil temperature is over 12-degrees-C/54-degrees-F, apply Pathogenic nematodes. White Flies; Greenhouse Control: once the temperature is above 10-degrees-C/50-degrees-F, introduce; Encarsia - Formosa (parasitic wasp), at first sign of infestation. Organic Gardening Tips and Methods (Part 3) Avoiding Chemicals The conventional solution to pests and diseases relies on sprays which drench the plants and soil with chemical poisons. Organic gardeners, instead, try to help plants to resist attacks in the first place by manipulating the natural system of checks and balances in their (the plants) favour. Pesticides, even organic ones, are only used as a last resort. Controlling Pests and Diseases The aim of Organic-Gardener is the control, not the elimination. The gardener makes it difficult for pests and diseases so that plants and crops thrive in spite of them. Organic gardeners try to prevent pests and diseases from reaching the point where an organically approved pesticide is needed by building up the plants by creating stable ecosystems and by encouraging predators and parasites. Growing Healthy Plants The primary task in organic gardening is to grow healthy plants that resist attacks and endure minor infestations in much the same way a healthy human shrugs off a cold. Of all the checks to growth, water imbalance is the most common, decimated plants will die, but even if the reach wilting point, their growth will be severely checked, water logging can be equally as serious, especially in cold, low-light conditions, plants in containers are often sickened by over watering in winter and spring as they are by a drought in summer. Air and light are also important factors in preventing infection; each plant must be given sufficient space. Never crowd plants (grow a few well instead of many that are poor), vigorous and woody plants need pruning or tying in to allow air and light in and to allow access for useful predators. Hygiene Regular inspections of the garden followed by “direct-action” to remove all the directly infected material, this will significantly reduce further pest and disease attacks. For example: the removal of any infested tips control aphid attacks on broad-beans and the prompt removal and the burning or deep-burial of infected branches prevents the spread of coral spot. Secateurs’, Saws and Knives should be sterilized with surgical spirit to prevent cross-infection. Take care not to introduce any problems with bought in plants, manures or dirty tools, Keep new plants in isolation for a week or so, Never buy (or try to avoid buying) soil-grown brassica plants because of the danger of “club-root” forming. Direct/Prompt Action In addition to build the self-regulating systems, you will need to take the direct-action approach, and the earlier that action is taken, the more effective it will be. What must also be considered is the economics, in time, cash and labour of measure you take in relation to increase in yield, for example, flea beetles make short holes in radish and brassica seedlings, maintaining moist conditions reduces their damage and is worthwhile, but spraying may cost more than what a radish crop is worth. Organic Pesticides Organic gardeners prefer not to use poisonous substance unless they are needed to save a valuable crop, however, they are there as a last resort, though you must take very good care not to disrupt the ecosystems that have slowly built up. Follow the instructions on the packaging as to their uses, applications rates, timing and precautions, and keep them in a safe place under the Control of Substances Hazardous to Health (COSHH) act which is part of the health and safety acts. A list of Organic Pesticides with their advantages and disadvantages are as follow; Mix/Mixture: Advantages: Disadvantages: Bordeaux mixture; an inorganic chemical, it is a preventative allowed under organic not a cure and must standards, as it is not not be applied- harmful to humans or thoroughly soil life, effective and in good Against potato blight, time. Peach leaf curl, raspberry cane spot and many other fungal diseases. Derris; liquid or dust, which will indiscriminate in kill most insects, but is action, lethal to particularly effective - fish, pigs and against mites, treat tortoises, breaks ‘wasps’ nests by puffing down in sunlight, the dust into the entrance slower to act than at dusk and repeat after pyrethrum, is/has a week. Been under review and is no longer recommended for use. Insecticide-Soap; the preferred pesticide, ineffective against- and, more effective than- larger insect pests. Soft-Soap, safe to use and made from natural products. Pyrethrum; useful for killing many no longer available insect pests including, in pure form and small caterpillars. Commonly supplied with a synthetic synergist and kills beneficial insects and fish (but is safe for mammals). Materials: Advantages: Disadvantages: Quassia; a solution made from the it is no longer - bark of a tree that kills aphids available on its own. but is harmless to bees and other beneficial insects sold with derris, which makes both more effective. Sulphur; the pure element that is take care when using allowed under the Organic it with fruit trees and Standards as a control for bushes, as few powdery mildews on fruit, varieties are allergic flowers and vegetables, and to sulphur, always for preventing rots in over- read the label and wintering bulbs and tubers. Instructions. Soft-Soap; traditionally used as a spray none in particular. to kill aphids, red spider - mites, mealy bugs and other pests. Basics of Biological Control Bought in predators have been used commercially for some time, and many are now available to gardeners, many pests can be controlled by sprinkling on a water-borne parasite. Usually a microscopic worm called a Nematode, the soil needs to be moist and warm for this to work. For example: Leather-jackets can be parasitized by Stienernem feltiae Nematodes, applied in summer. Most biological controls are more suitable for greenhouses where pests are difficult to control because of the absence of natural predators, once they are introduced, of course, the use of pesticides has to stop they are most effective if introduced early in the season, but not before the pests have appeared or the parasites will starve. Full instructions come in/with the packets; the most widely used are the controls for: white flies, red-spider mites, aphids and mealy bugs. Biological Controls, Pest and Controls List: Pests: Controls: Aphids; Greenhouse control: once the temperature is about 10 degrees C/50 degrees F, introduce; Aphidoletes aphidomyza (predatory midge), or Aphidius (predatory wasp). Garden Control: tap lacewing larvae onto the infected plants, introduce; lacewing hotel for “over- wintering”. Caterpillars; Greenhouse Control: introduce; Bacillus thurigiensis (bacterium) in the evening. Mealy bugs; Greenhouse Control: introduce; Cryptolaenus montrouzieri (predatory ladybird) on large plants, and Hypoaspis miles (predatory mite) on small plants when the temperature is above 11-degrees-C/52- degrees-F. Red Spider Mite; Greenhouse Control: if the temperature is above 16- degrees-C/61-degrees-F, introduce; Phytoseculus persimilis (predatory mite) at first sign of infestation. Scale Insects; Greenhouse Control: when the temperature is above 14-degrees-C/57-degrees-F, introduce; Stienernema (nematode) or Metaphycus helvolus (parasitic wasp). Sciarrid Flies; Greenhouse Control: introduce; Hypoaspis miles (predatory mite) when the temperature is above 11- degrees-C/52-degrees-F. Slugs; Greenhouse Control: when the soil temperature is above 5-degrees-C/41-degress-F, apply- Phasmarhabditis hermaphrodita (pathogenic - nematode) every six weeks. Thrips; Greenhouse Control: introduce; Ambleysius (predatory mite) from late spring. Vine Weevils; Greenhouse Control: when the temperature is over 12-degrees-C/54-degrees-F, apply Heterorhabditis megedis or Steinernema carpocapsae (pathogenic nematodes). Garden Control: when the soil temperature is over 12-degrees-C/54-degrees-F, apply Pathogenic nematodes. White Flies; Greenhouse Control: once the temperature is above 10-degrees-C/50-degrees-F, introduce; Encarsia - Formosa (parasitic wasp), at first sign of infestation.
Posted on: Fri, 26 Jul 2013 11:38:12 +0000
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