Pan So Dan: Past and Present A gust of wind swept through the rather deserted road tossing the torn-out corners of old books piled on a plastic sheet. A middle-aged man stood up and put a brick on the pile. On each side of the road stand a few old book shops. Three or four years ago, the road was peopled and book shoppers were happy to receive inflow of customers. However, these days stole away. Today, grand colonial buildings are towering a few by-passers, vendors, pedestrians and roadside shoppers. It is thought that the road bears it name after those former residents, Myanmar handcrafters or floral designers who designed fabric or dyed floral designs on clothes or silk. However, in colonial days, it was called Phayre Street in tribute to the first commissioner of Burma, Sir Arthur Purves Phayre. The background history of the name Pan So Dan was now lost into oblivion in the course of time. Still, there left some traces we can track down its background. There have been a few similar names repeating the last syllable of Pan So Dan, so here “Dan” such as Hti Dan, Wa Dan, Sink Oo Dan etc. The word “Dan”in Myanmar denotes “a market place” in English. In this sense, Hti Dan stands for a market place where “Hti(umbrella) were thought to be produced or merchandised. So will be with “Pan So Dan”, suffice it to say. Just a stroll up from the end of the street at Nan Thi Dar Port in the lower block will bring a grand building called Myanmar Port Authority into view. The present building replaced the old building constructed in 1865 for the latter was thought to be unsafe. The foundation stone of the new building was laid by Sir Spencer Harcourt Butler, the then ruling Governor of Burma (Myanmar). The building is still highly valued for its unique architectural features. Across from it stands Yangon Division Court featuring octagonal corner domes. It was bombed during World War II. The building was constructed in stages with the extension on the east during 1905-1907 in order to meet the requirements of the expending Currency Department and also to make room for the office of the Accountant-General of Burma (Myanmar). Now it turns over a new leaf as the Yangon (South and West) Division Court. The bombed area behind the building still houses the pension office. Pan So Dan reveals a few other buildings built in the colonial periods like Lokanat Gallery Building (Sofaer’s Buildings), Myanmar Agricultural Development Bank (Grindlays Bank), Myanmar Economic Bank-1 (Lloyds Bank), Myanmar Economic Bank-2 (Chartered Bank) High Court, Telegraph Office, and Inland Waterways Department (Irrawaddy Flotilla Company). Each building has more than a story to tell. Of them, Lokanat Gallery Building is remarkable for its Italianate flourishes. The building was formerly called Sofaer’s Building in tribute to its designer Issac A. Sofaer, a Jewish trader. The building once housed a few shops and companies like Mutual Life Insurance Company, the Reuters Telegram Company, Ltd, Peter Klier Photo Gallery and other shops that sold imported Vafiadis Egyptian cigarettes, Lighthouse Munich Beer and candies. Now the building holds a few shops, Photocopy shops, Myanmar Oversea Seafarers Association and a law firm. The present Myanmar Economic Bank (1) had been the British Bank Lloyds. It was built round about 1921. After years under the British rule, it had to house the National Museum. At that time, it had one of the very memorable exhibits, the Lion Throne of the last King of Burma. The throne itself has a long story to recall. Though originally seated in the Royal Palace of Mandalay, it was looted by the British after the third Anglo-Burmese war in 1885. It was carried from Burma and placed in the Calcutta (now Kolkata) Museum. After Myanmar had gained independence in 1948, Lord Mountbatten, the then Governor of India returned it to Myanmar. After passing of times, the building of Lloyds Bank now turns into Myanmar Economic Bank (1) that still looks so young and strong for its age. The present Myanmar Economic Bank (2) was formerly designed for the charted Bank of India, China and Australia. It was built round about 1939-1941. The Chartered Bank today changes into The Standard Chartered Bank still carrying its grand name all the world over. But, one of its branches in Myanmar has been renamed as The Myanmar Economic Bank (2) with a scanty measure of renovation. Inland Waterways Department is one of the famous colonial buildings in Yangon, also, one of the possessions Pan So Dan can boast of for its uniqueness and grand past. However, in the colonial days, it was the Irrawaddy Flotilla Company, set up in 1865 by Todd, Findlay and Company with its head offices in Glasgow. It is said that the company claimed to be the largest fleet of inland steamers operating in the world at that time. Most Myanmars tend to remember the company’s name in connection with U Na Ouk, a Mon Millionaire rivaled with the Irrawaddy Flotilla Company as well as his marked attempts to gain more market share in inland waterway transportation. Nowadays, though it has become Inland Waterways Department, not a grain of grandeur is lost with regard to its splendid past and delicate architectural styles. Another grand building standing like an old, learned towns-elder is High Court. It is said to have been built in the Queen Anne style with its rooftop lion statues and a bell clock tower. It was built in 1905-1911. Though it had been in use for years, it is now partially occupied since the reestablishment of the Supreme Court in the new capita of Nay Pyi Daw. Neighboring Building of High Court is Central Telegraph Office built in 1913-1917. The building performed its duty very well for Yangon-dwellers catering to the needs of speedy communications with the rest of the world. An unforgettable incident still lingered on the building took place during the Japanese occupation of Yangon in World War II. The Japanese authorities issued an order for the city dwellers to entrust their radios to the Telegraph Office that they might not receive Allied news broadcasts from India in an attempt to prevent any piece of news on War from spreading through and out of Yangon. Now, as the telegraph is outclassed by updated communication technologies, the building is occupied with other shops despite being one of the possessions of Ministry of Communications, Ports and Telegraphs. To the best of my knowledge, Pan So Dan has most colonial buildings to offer to public view. A leisurely stroller on the Pan So Dan Street would feel like being towered by a few tall gentlemen here and there. Though they looked old and unchanged, one would feel a sense of splendor under the shadow of those tall gentlemen. In the somewhat fresh breeze from the Yangon River, one would be drifted into reverie about their unrivalled architectural uniqueness during a leisurely amble along the road. Most frequenters of the road are now old books shoppers, those in quest of knowledge among the old books, a few other shoppers, daily by-passers, commuters and some flocks of pigeons. One’s visit to Yangon is not perfect if one has not yet been to Pan So Dan. However, the road itself looks satisfied, lost in sweet memory about the past for it managed to witness monumental changes in history of Myanmar and has even played some pivotal parts in them. In addition, I believe those buildings can never be deflated or degraded by any means or in any attempts. For, they will ever be standing witnesses about the glory of Pan So Dan Past and Present. Maung Phyo References 30 Heritage Buildings of Yangon, 2012 Association of Myanmar Architects and Serindia Publications, Chicago Report on Rangoon Foreshore Committee, 1909, Office of the Superintendent, Government Printing, Burma
Posted on: Tue, 24 Sep 2013 07:01:48 +0000
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