Review: TerraMia Brick Oven Pizza in Lake Mary One of the great things about researching the Orlando Sentinels Foodie Awards is revisiting places that have fallen off my radar. TerraMia Brick Oven Pizza in Lake Mary offers gourmet-style pizzas, plus classic and modern Italian dishes, in trendy digs with bar seating and tables on the front patio. If the name sounds familiar, theres a sister operation — TerraMia Wine Bar and Restaurant — in Altamonte Springs. The brick oven is the focal point at the Lake Mary restaurant. From the fiery hearth come standouts such as the montanara ($12.50 for a 13-inch pie or $16.50 for 16-inch pie) with baby organic spinach, whole-milk ricotta, fresh mozzarella and shaved parmigiano. The crusts have a nice crisp crack and the indirect heat melds the toppings into an ooey-gooey indulgence. From the express lunch menu I sampled the pollo Milanese, a pounded chicken cutlet dusted with panko bread crumbs and pan-fried. The finished dish was crowned with an ultra-fresh mix of field greens lightly dressed in olive oil and balsamic vinegar. A light shower of sea salt brought the elements together nicely. My guest chose the stromboli ($7.50) with mild Italian sausage, caramelized onions, sweet peppers, mozzarella and fresh basil wrapped in a golden, crisp blanket of dough. Zuppa del giorno ($6 bowl, $3.50 cup) translates as soup of the day and on a recent chilly night it was pasta e fagioli, a traditional meatless Italian concoction. Our warm, hearty soup was deeply flavored and offered a nice balance of richness from the beans and acidity of the tomato base. We returned a few weeks later to check out the entrees. The spaghetti alla carbonara ($10.95), a blend of diced pancetta, scallions, fresh-cracked black pepper and egg, was expertly rich and moist without falling into the gloppy mess that plagues many carbonaras. But the pork shank special ($23.95) with linguini was the highlight of the evening. The meat fell effortlessly into tendrils with little effort with a fork and the pasta was a spot-on al dente. The dish was bathed in a liquid that was reminiscent of a classic creamy vodka sauce. As dreamy as the pork shank was that night, it was that and more as a leftover. If you have room for dessert, the housemade tiramisu ($6.95), a classic Italian dessert of espresso-soaked ladyfingers topped with cream, had a sufficient coffee flavor and lightness. And it was shareable. TerraMia Brick Oven Pizzas name and entry belie its sophisticated setting. Inside the upscale-casual trattoria is a mix of pristinely set booths and tables. The service staff is knowledgeable and engaging. And I loved that on my second visit a few people in the back of the restaurant were speaking Italian. The sit-down express lunch is a nice feature. And by the amount of to-go meals going out the door at lunch and dinner, its clear TerraMia has carved out a neighborhood niche. By Heather McPherson Orlando Sentinel Food Editor hmcpherson@orlandosentinel, 407-420-5498 or Twitter@OS_thedish TerraMia Brick Oven Pizza Where: 7025 County Road 46A in Lake Mary When: Noon-10 p.m. Sunday, 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Friday and Saturday How much: $3.50-$24 Beverages: Wine and beer Wines by the glass: From $8 Attire: Casual Extras: Good for groups, outdoor dining, takeout, televisions, separate bar Noise level: Nice conversational buzz Wheelchair access: Good Credit: American Express, MasterCard and Visa Call: 407-333-1233 Online: terramiaorlando and Facebook
Posted on: Mon, 19 Jan 2015 19:51:58 +0000
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