THE INNER WORKINGS OF SEPTIC SYSTEMS Maybe you have no interest - TopicsExpress



          

THE INNER WORKINGS OF SEPTIC SYSTEMS Maybe you have no interest in reading about such a nasty subject, but have you ever really considered just how much sewage there is in this world? I mean think about it. All the animals of this world not to mention the 8 billion human beings, we all have to go daily. So where does it all go? Why aren’t we inundated with sewage by now? I know, you probably have better things to do than think about such things, but now you’re curious right? If you dont have a connection to a public sewer, you might be more concerned about where your sewage goes because it probably does not leave your yard and you are now responsible for it forever. Along with water and soap from the washing machine and dishwasher and last night’s leftovers from the garbage disposal our household “sewage” enters the septic tank via a series of drain lines and ultimately the larger 4” main waste drain. You are probably not aware that if you drink water from a well that resides on your property that the toilet water you flush ends up coming back to the pump in your well? Now there’s an unpleasant thought. Improper maintenance and resulting failures of your septic system could make you very sick and even lead to the death of your family, friends and neighbors. Not to worry though, as long as a septic system is designed, installed and maintained properly, it can provide safe and effective service for years at a very low cost. However, it should be noted that if and when these systems fail, ground and surface water pollution, property damage and disease outbreaks can occur. So it makes good sense to understand and care for your septic system. There are many different types of septic tank systems that can fit a wide range of soil and site conditions. The following information will help you to understand a simple type of septic system, and keep it operating safely at the lowest possible cost. The typical septic tank is a large buried rectangular or cylindrical container made of concrete, fiberglass, or polyethylene. Wastewater from your toilet, bath, kitchen, laundry, waste disposal, etc. flows into the tank. Heavy solids settle to the bottom where bacterial action partially decomposes them to digested sludge and gases. Most of the lighter solids, such as fats and grease, rise to the top and form a scum layer. Septic tanks may have one or two compartments. Two compartment tanks do a better job of settling solids and are required for newer systems. Tees or baffles are provided at the tanks inlet and outlet pipes. The inlet tee slows the incoming wastes and reduces disturbance of the settled sludge. The outlet tee keeps the solids or scum in the tank. All tanks should have accessible covers for checking the condition of the baffles and for pumping both compartments. If risers extend from the tank to or above the ground surface, they should be secure to prevent accidental entry into the tank. Solids that are not decomposed remain in the septic tank. If not removed by periodic pumping, solids will accumulate until they eventually overflow into the drain field. Most septic tanks need to be pumped every 3 to 5 years, depending on the tank size, and the amount and type of solids entering the tank. The septic tank should be pumped whenever the bottom of the scum layer is within 3 inches of the bottom of the outlet tee or baffle, or the top of the sludge layer is within 12 inches of the bottom of the outlet fitting. Many products on the market, such as solvents, yeast, bacteria, and enzymes claim to improve septic tank performance, or reduce the need for routine pumping. None have been found to be of benefit. Some can even cause solids to carry over to the drain field, which results in early soil clogging and the need for a new drain field. Products containing organic solvents can contribute to groundwater pollution. The wastewater leaving the septic tank is a liquid called effluent. It has been partially treated but still contains disease-causing bacteria and other pollutants. Discharging effluent onto the grounds surface or into surface and ground water is against state law. The drain field receives septic tank effluent. It has a network of perforated pipes laid in gravel-filled trenches (2-3 feet wide), or beds (over 3 feet wide) in the soil. Wastewater trickles out of the pipes, through the gravel layer, and into the soil. The size and type of drain field depends on the estimated daily wastewater flow and soil conditions. New drain field installations should have a designated replacement area. It must be maintained should the existing system need an addition or repair. The effluent exits the drain field and out into the soil where worms, roots, pebbles, rocks and rich dirt. If you’re a water drop that’s has made the journey through the septic system, this is much nicer place to be than that nasty septic tank and drain field. The gravel and soil acts as a filter to remove any small amounts of solids that may be carried along with the liquid. The drain field treats the wastewater by allowing it to slowly trickle from the pipes out into the gravel and down through the soil. The gravel and soil act as biological filters. The longer distance the water is able to soak through the soil the cleaner it becomes until finally it reaches ground water. Warning signs of a failure: • Odors, surfacing sewage, wet spots or lush vegetation growth in the drain field area • Plumbing or septic tank backups • Slow draining fixtures • Gurgling sounds in the plumbing system If you notice any of these signs or if you suspect your septic tank system may be having problems - contact your local health department for assistance. Caring For Your System - The Ten Essentials Practice water conservation. The more wastewater you produce, the more the soil must treat and dispose. By reducing and balancing your use, you can extend the life of the drain field, decrease the possibility of system failure, and avoid costly repairs. To reduce your water use: • Use water-saving devices. • Repair leaky faucets and plumbing fixtures. • Reduce toilet reservoir volume or flow. • Take shorter showers. • Take baths with a partially-filled tub. • Wash only full loads of dishes and laundry. Keep accurate records. Know where your septic tank system is and keep a diagram of its location. Records of its size and location may be available at your local health department. It is also wise to keep a record of maintenance on the system. These records will be helpful if problems occur, and will be valuable to the next owner of your home. Inspect your system once each year. You may want to leave this to a professional it is a nasty job. Check the sludge and scum levels inside your septic tank to assure that the layers of solids are not within the early warning levels. The tank also should be checked to see if the baffles or tees are in good condition. Periodically inspect the drain field and down slope areas for odors, wet spots, or surfacing sewage. If your drain field has inspection pipes, check them to see if there is a liquid level continually over 6 inches. This may be an early indication of a problem. Pump out your septic tank when needed. Dont wait until you have a problem. Routine pumping can prevent failures, such as clogging of the drain field and sewage back-up into the home. Using a garbage disposal will increase the amount of solids entering the septic tank and require more frequent pumping. Never flush harmful materials into the septic tank. Grease, cooking fats, newspaper, paper towels, rags, coffee grounds, sanitary napkins, and cigarettes cannot easily decompose in the tank. Chemicals such as solvents, oils, paint and pesticides are harmful to the systems proper operation and may pollute the groundwater. Septic tank additives do not improve the performance of the septic tank, nor do they reduce the need for pumping. Keep all runoff away from your system. Water from surfaces such as roofs, driveways, or patios should be diverted away from the septic tank and drain field area. Soil over your system should be slightly mounded to help surface water runoff. Protect your system from damage. Keep traffic such as vehicles, heavy equipment, or livestock off your drain field or replacement area. The pressure can compact the soil or damage pipes. Before you plant a garden, construct a building, or install a pool, check on the location of your system and replacement area. Landscape your system properly. Dont place impermeable materials over your drain field or replacement area. Materials, such as concrete or plastic, reduce evaporation and the supply of oxygen to the soil for proper effluent treatment. They also can hinder getting to the system for pumping, inspection, or repair. Grass is the best cover for your system. Never enter any septic tank. Poisonous gases or the lack of oxygen can be fatal. Any work to the tank should be done from the outside preferable by an experienced professional. Check with your local health department for help with system problems. Although some malfunctions may require complete drain field replacement, many problems can be corrected with a minimum amount of cost and effort. Newsletter by: Homeworks Inspection Services, LLC homeworksinspect
Posted on: Sun, 24 Aug 2014 03:00:40 +0000

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