To YHA 19/11/2000: I enclose some photos showing the former RN residences, and some others which may be of interest. Photo ‘B’ I think is of your property, it was taken in 1907. The maids in Photo ‘C’ are looking out of one of its windows - possibly thinking ‘this would make a nice youth hostel in 95 years time’? The trio of imposing Naval Residences was designed in 1904, and completed in 1906. They were built by local firm Jesty & Baker of Castletown, who had many major Government contracts at the time. The style, of red brick with stone horizontal banding, was the theme used in several other contemporary buildings of that era – notably the RN Canteen (later to become the control and operations centre for the Air Station; and the RN (later ‘Portland’) Hospital complex. The northern of the 3 (‘Naval Residence No. 1’, later called Hardy House) was built for the Admiralty’s Chief Civil Engineer at Portland. It has had various official occupants in recent years, including the Naval Provost and the Works Department. Residence No. 2 (Boscawen House) was originally for the Naval Stores Officer, and No.3 (Rodney House) was for the King’s Harbour Master. It later became the ‘official’ residence of the Captain of the Base and the Rear-Admiral. This part of Portland is full of historic interest. The hillside behind the houses is the great Verne Common. This was a vast steeply-sloping green pasture, where Portlanders had the right to graze sheep and cattle. From the earliest times everyone had the freedom to wander at will from Castletown, and Fortuneswell all over the hilltop to the eastern shores. The whole of this common was acquired by the government in the mid 19th Century for the creation of Portland Harbour and naval base, and its defences. The enormous fortress of Verne Citadel was constructed on – or rather within - the hilltop from c1850 to 1870 (Since 1949 it has been a prison). The building of the Verne Citadel together with the Breakwaters was one of Victorian Britain’s greatest engineering projects. (A full description of this and other events relating to this area are covered in my book Portland; an Illustrated History). The western slopes of Verne Common reverted to civilian ownership in 1939, then the post-war council decided to cover it with a sprawling estate of council houses (1949 to 1975) which now forms the backdrop to the RN Residences. Most of the houses are now privately owned. The former RN Air Station, HMS Osprey was established in 1959 and ceased to operate in 1999. As you know many of its buildings are currently being demolished. The air base was on the site of The Mere, a vast tidal flat, which was separated from the harbour by a natural shingle bank (Coneygar Bank) which had a narrow gap through which the water ebbed and flowed. Until 1905 The Mere was a great wildlife haven, a vast expanse of shallow water extensive mudflats which today would have been protected as a SSSI! However from 1905 it was progressively filled in for the naval fuel tank farm, and its last vestiges were obliterated when the air station was extended. Once the demolition and clearance work has been completed we should see a major transformation of this prominent entrance to the Island, and the Youth Hostel will be an important part of the new scene. The sports field to the south of the air station site was called ‘Cadets Ground’ a recreation ground for the Navy constructed at the same time as the Residences. (I hope it always remains for recreational use, and that suggestions for houses there are rejected). The small graveyard by the Cadets Corner is of interest. I attach a recent article which summarises its story well. The little stone building opposite you was the Rocket Store. This housed the life-saving rocket apparatus, used in times of shipwreck. I have much information and pictures of the numerous wrecks around Portland’s coasts. Just to the north of the two oil tanks down the road, the cutting of the old Easton & Church Hope Railway can still be seen. It passed under a road bridge which still exists, but apart from that, little trace of the line remains. The railway first came to Portland in 1865, along a track between the beach road and the harbour. This originally terminated at a neat little station at Victoria Square. When the line was extended to Tophill (1902) a new station was built on a curved part of the line, on piles to raise it above the Mere. That incorporated the Admiralty line to Castletown which had been laid in the 1860’s. There are many other major features nearby which will interest your guests. The Merchants Railway, which carried stone from the quarries to the piers at Castletown, was opened in the same year (1826) as the famous Stockton & Darlington Railway, although this one was always horse- and gravity-operated. It was the first railway of any sort in Dorset. Victoria Gardens (1904) has a plaque unveiled by the American Ambassador to commemorate the launch from Portland Harbour of “The Major part of the American Assault Force which landed on the shores of France on D-Day, June 6th, 1944. …”. No less than 418,000 troops and 144,000 vehicles passed along Castle Road on that great occasion. Portland Castle is now one of the jewels in English Heritage’s crown. It is one of the best preserved of all the country’s surviving Henry VIII’s castles, and is rapidly developing as one of the regions’ most popular historic attractions. I am not sure how much more information you need. As I have said I have many more photos, and if you can indicate anything specific I can get some enlarged for you. I trust the conversion is going well, and I wish the venture every success. Its just what Portland needs, and I’m sure your future guests will find this unique Island really stimulating. Yours sincerely, © Stuart Morris 2000
Posted on: Sat, 22 Mar 2014 20:39:18 +0000
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