Tradition and Mysticism By Alain Dubernard CMB CHE The Day of the Dead celebration, or “Dia de los Muertos” in Spanish, represents Aztec culture melded with the religion of the Spanish conquistadors. It is a two day celebration which coincides with the Catholic All Saints’ Day and Souls’ day, and it is based on an ancient Aztec belief that after a person passes, they carry on living in a place called Mictlan. This very important celebration is part of my culture and it awakens my memories of my dearest Mexico. The processions, the overcrowded cemeteries, the endless gatherings of people promenading through the tombs, and the flashy yellow color and strong odor of the Cempazuchitl (Yellow Marygold) mark the trail for our ancestors to return and share a moment with their living loved ones. The Celebration It is said that smell is the only one of the five senses used after death. The smells I recall and associate with this holiday are sharp and unique. The floral perfume, the wholesome coffee aroma, the spicy chocolate, the tortillas, the chiles, the fresh-baked bread, the acute aroma of the spices, and the mix of tequila and mescal are a few examples of the diverse scents typically perceived in a Mexican cemetery on the Day of the Dead. All of these aromas are usually wrapped inside the essence of Copal and other incenses that are lit to help the deceased find the path to the particular altar made in their memory. Visually, it can be almost overwhelming. There are usually thousands of candles lightening up every corner, perforated paper (papel picado) in all kinds of designs and bright colors, flowers and fruits everywhere, whole families gathered up and waiting for the body and spirit to be reunited. The world of living things and the kingdom of the dead, color, magic, tradition, faith and mysticism unite to create one of the most celebrated festivities in Mexico. After the visit to the cemetery, families get together and have a celebration, during which they enjoy the favorite foods and drinks of the loved ones who are gone; it is in fact a “mortuary banquet”. An Altar is set up at home for the loved ones who have crossed the threshold that divides life and death. On these altars, there are many types of representations, such as a picture of the dearly departed, sugar skeletons, little candied pumpkins, fruits, and varied traditional sweets. The four elements, Water, Wind, Fire and Earth, must always be present. Water, the fountain of life, is present in a glass of water and more often than not replaced with the favorite drink of the loved one. The Wind makes its presence with the assistance of the paper that moves at its own rhythm and brings joy with its brilliant colors. The Fire, which is said to purify, is embodied with a constant burning candle. Last but not least, the Earth is represented with bread, specifically The Bread of the Dead. The Bread of the Dead The Bread of the Dead can be traced back to pre-Hispanic times and it is the most significant offering in this time of the year. Many different versions of this bread are made, depending on the town and region of the country they come from, but they always have the same purpose to be received and shared with special guests. It is said that before the Spanish conquest this version of bread was made with ground and toasted Amaranth seeds mixed with the blood of the sacrifices made to Huehueteotl, the fire god and a major deity of the Aztecs. In addition a corn Tamal (tamale) was reportedly used with red tincture to represent the hearts of the sacrificed. When the Spanish arrived and conquered the Aztec city of Tenochtitlan, they introduced wheat and of course, evangelization (which ended all types of human sacrifices among other things) to Mexico. The mixing of cultures and beliefs occurred and the Bread of the Dead began to slowly evolve into the one that we now enjoy. Today there are more than 900 types of this bread. Some are made in human forms, others are animal shaped, and others are in the form of plants or trees. I have even seen some with fantastic and surrealist forms and colors that are amazing. The most common variety is supposed to resemble a skull and is adorned with bones and sometimes teardrops. It is usually made with egg rich sweet dough, flavored with orange blossom and anise, and sprinkled with sugar. The bread doesn’t have to be very heavy but it needs to have body and the cell structure should be regular. Apart from being an important part of the magic of Mexican culture, the Bread of the Dead has a big impact on the bread industry. This bread represents some of the biggest annual sales for bakers in Mexico. For this reason, every bakery in the country makes it, from a big supermarket and a little bakery in the middle of nowhere to a high-end pastry shop and industrial manufacturers. Some people even bake it in ovens outside of the cemeteries, the parks, and in the parking lots of big corporations. It is important to understand that these are days of celebration rather than days of mourning. This beautiful tradition is held in humble places as well as palaces, and in the country side as well as in cities, always with joy, faith, and a happy memory of departed friends and ancestors. Hopefully young generations will continue to keep this tradition alive. After all, the Day of the Dead bread is delicious and so unique that I can’t wait to enjoy it this year! Alain Dubernard is the Department Chair for Baking and Pastry arts at the Culinary Institute of America, San Antonio TX Campus. He is a certified master baker and certified hospitality educator.
Posted on: Wed, 30 Oct 2013 18:54:11 +0000
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