WILEYS BARBERS TRADITIONAL WET SHAVE. 18 Queen St Morecambe Open 7 days Reasons why and how a barber shave is not only better but an art forms. Wiley WET SHAVING - WHY BOTHER? Today many men regard shaving as a daily chore which must be completed as quickly as possible. This is a pity as the benefits of a good traditional wet shave are many. It exfoliates the skin, removing dead skin cells and allows the skin to breathe. The method also provides the closest possible shave with lasting results. However, too often the result of an incorrect shave, is discomfort in the form of razor-burn, rashes and dry-skin.PreparationThe key to the perfect shave is preparation. If possible, shave after a shower or apply hot water to the face prior to shaving to soften the beard and open the pores. Although shaving cream may be applied with the fingers, a richer lather is achieved with the use of a good qualityshaving brush. The more thorough the lathering process, the better the shave. Use a small amount of glycerin based shaving cream and rub onto the wet skin by moving the brush in a paint brush motion and back and forth over the skin, against the grain of the beard to produce good lather. Spend time on the lathering process, up to 2 or 3 minutes.ShavingAlways shave with the lie of the beard, never against. Failure to do this is the major cause of razor burn. Glide the razor gently over the skin, holding the skin taut with the free hand whilst shaving. Keep the razor well rinsed to avoid clogging the blade and apply more water if necessary, not more shaving cream. Repeat the process a second time if necessary.Shaving using an open razorYour skin has been prepared and a good lather has been applied.Hold the razor at an angle of approx. 30 degrees. If you hold the razor too flat it will tear the stubble, too steep and it will cut the skin.The thumb must be placed on the blade itself and not on the tang. The position of the thumb will vary as the different strokes are taken but it must always remain on the blade.Begin on the right side of the face and take the first stroke downward in a slanting stroke from the top of the cheek at the ear, with the razor lying almost flat on the face. The stroke should be made with the blade moving from point to heel in a scythe-like movement without jerks or chopping.The razor must not be pulled or dragged and the skin must always be held taut with the free hand. No stroke should be shorter than 1 of longer than 3.The right side of the face should be wholly shaved according to the diagram before proceeding to the left side.As the chin is approached, lift the razor slightly. Use the middle of the blade for going over the chin. Never begin a fresh stroke on a prominent part of the face, such as the chin or jawbone. Begin a little away from such places and work over with steady strokes.Treat the two sides of the upper lip as part of the face, shaving the right side from nose to face and the left side from face to nose, leaving the centre of the lip to be done separately by holding the nose up slightly to tighten the skin.For the lower lip, the first strokes should be taken across with the skin tightened between the thumb and finger placed under the corners of the mouth. Remove the remaining hairs on the upward stroke, beginning from the chin and allowing the razor to follow the contour under the lip.First PassHaving gone over the whole face once, it is usually necessary to go over a second time to ensure a clean shave. The face is lathered again as before but the soap will not require to be worked as long as before.The skin should be held taut in front of the razor and this time the strokes taken as far as possible, against the grain of the hair.Please Note: These notes on the use of open razors are intended as a guide. Shaving with an open razor is not easy to master and this guide is not to be considered a substitute for being taught by a Barber.Second PassArrows indicate direction and approximate number of strokes.Clear areas indicate freehand strokes and shaded areas backhand strokes.Numbers indicate continuity.After the shave, apply cold water to the face to close the pores and pat the skin dry. In the event of nicks or cuts, apply a moistened Block of Alum or Styptic pencil to stop the bleeding. Apply a skin food or moisturising balmto restore moisture and nourish the skin.Care of the Brush & RazorRinse and flick dry the shaving brush and razor. Shaving brushes should always be allowed to dry naturally, with the hair pointing downward in a suitable stand, to prevent moisture seeping into the base of the brush. Professional wet shaves avaliable at WILEYS barbers.
Posted on: Sat, 08 Nov 2014 22:55:04 +0000
Trending Topics
Recently Viewed Topics
© 2015