We love complements!! The California Rhône Blends of Elyse Winery and Rahn Estate by Drew Stofflet, Time Out Staff Writer Thursday, February 28, 2013 Printer-friendly version Email this Story In advance of next month’s Rhône Rangers tasting — an annual event held in San Francisco put on by the group dedicated to the pursuit of Rhône varietal excellence in the Golden State — I did a little Rhône-wrangling of my own. My love is Rhône varietals is second to none, as I professed last week in discussing Ojai’s remarkable 2007 grenache. The first bottle I opened was also from 2007, and also from a winery of which I sing high praises: Elyse Winery in Oakvile, which in its 25th year, is known for stellar cabernet sauvignon and zinfandel, as well as inspired blends such as the Italian-esque Nero Misto and French-like L’Ingénu and the Le Corbeau. Ray Coursen, founder, owner and winemaker — ever the poet and philosopher — adds this to the back label of his C’est Si Bon blend: “‘C’est Si Bon,’ is what lovers say in France, when they thrill to romance, it means ‘It’s so good.’” And the C’est Si Bon is exactly that. While I stocked plenty of the dark and brooding Elyse petite sirah and zinfandel at Ella, Bill Bentley kept the C’est Si Bon flowing at Six89. (Does anybody miss the ‘Niner as much as I do?) The C’est Si Bon, sourced from the Naggier Vineyard near Grass Valley in the Sierra Foothills, is a blend of 46 percent grenache, 26 percent mourvedre, 18 percent syrah, 5 percent cinsault, 4 percent counoise and 1 percent viognier. After 22 months in small, used French puncheons (20 percent new wood), this blend shows how well the varietals of southern France do in the Sierra Foothills. The Naggier Vineyard’s commitment to sustainable farming, protection of wildlife habitat (and use of barn owls for rodent control), combined with Coursen’s winemaking — coaxing uncommon depth from his ferments and twinging his blends with the essences of roasted grape canes — create a magnificent Cali-Rhône. “Right out of the bottle,” is what was exclaimed by one of my companions, and she hit it right on. The wine was open and loving, like well-acquainted lovers on a relaxing date. Without shyness, it was scented in the nose with dried raspberries, pomegranate, white pepper and garigue (the leathery, broad-leafed Mediterranean evergreen shrub); it comforted the palate with vibrant and lush plum, raspberry and red currant fruits, laced with bright acidity. A creamy texture, hint of cocoa and a whiff of smokiness give this wonderful wine a beautiful finishing touch. I didn’t pair it with any bite, though I would think the possibilities would range from duck and lamb, to cheeses, pizza, enchiladas and beyond. “Right out of the bottle,” was proclaimed by a second guest (unbeknownst to the earlier guest who uttered exactly the same phrase) as I opened the second bottle, a 2010 Rahn Estate grenache/mourvedre, sourced from the sprawling San Francisco Bay A.V.A., and vinted high on the slopes of Napa’s famed Howell Mountain (known for intensely dark and sophisticated cabs). The Rahn family is committed to winegrowing in the French sense of the word “vigneron.” They oversee all of their contract vineyards, through their Coastal Viticultural Consultants, Inc., company, throughout California and Oregon. Rahn Estates produced “declassified” cabs, zins and exquisitely-sourced Rhône varietals. The grapes from this delicious bottle hail from the Corvino Bosco Vineyard near Pleasanton in the Livermore Valley, just east of the San Francisco Bay. The blend is 50 percent grenache — with it’s small berries and deep flavors — and 50 percent mourvedre, whose clones came as cuttings from the famous Château de Beaucastel of southern France’s Châteauneuf-du-Pape A.O.C. (and Tablas Creek in the new world at Paso Robles). The small berries and thick skins, coming from head-trained vines, give this component to the blend more sweet, deep flavors. After 12 months in French oak, a mere 150 cases of this wine is released to the masses — and those lucky enough to score it. Like I did last weekend. It was rich, dark and velvety smooth, with primary flavors of black raspberry and a never-ending chocolate effect, which was great, because this wine was basically desert. I would pair this wine with steak, burgers, lamb shank and roasted birds. At under $30 a bottle, both of these wines will satisfy, and how can you go wrong with two wines that, on the same night, evoked exactly the same phrase from two of my happy guests: “Right out of the bottle…” Cheers! Remember, wine reveals truth. Drew Stofflet lives in Carbondale. Correspond with him at drew.stofflet@gmail
Posted on: Thu, 20 Jun 2013 17:05:37 +0000
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