West of Khorixas n Namibia The C39 winds its way through the mountains, following the Aba-Huab Valley into the picturesque heart of Damaraland. If you are lucky, you might catch a glimpse of the desert elephants along the dry river course (and there is usually spoor to be seen on the road). During the heat of the day they tend to remain in the shade of the large trees. Most tourists are heading for the stunning rock formation and plentiful rock engravings at Twyfelfontein. There are also unusual geological formations of the Petrified Forest, the Organ Pipes and Burnt Mountain. The Wondergat is a little more difficult to find and most organized tours will not bother to stop here. While Twyfelfontein, Organ Pipes, Burnt Mountain and Wondergat are often grouped together (they lie within a few kilometres of each other), it is the paintings, the walk and the geology of Twyfelfontein that are by far the most interesting attractions in the area. If pushed for time, ignore the other sites and focus your attention on just Twyfelfontein. From Khorixas, take the C39. The Petrified Forest is well signposted after about 60 km, with a large thatched information hut, plenty of locals and a kiosk selling cold drinks. Continue for a further 15 km and turn left on to the D2612 for Twyfelfontein, clearly signposted. If coming from Uis, head north on the C35 for 58 km, turn left on the D2612, again Twyfelfontein is clearly marked. The D2612 is not very suitable for ordinary vehicles as it may have sandy patches which are difficult to negotiate, especially after rainfall. From either direction you will turn south onto the D3254 and, before you reach any of the attractions, pass the community campsite by the Aba-Huab River . If you are not planning to spend the night at Twyfelfontein, or in Damaraland at least, make sure you start early, as the road needs careful, slow driving, and the distance is considerable. For inner Damaraland, return to the C39 and continue west. You will pass a sign for the exclusive and highly regarded Damaraland Camp, before either heading north towards Palmwag or continuing west on the C39 for 92 km to Torra Bay, via the Spingbokwasser checkpoint. At Palmwag you have the choice of heading north to Sesfontein and Kaokoland, or joining the C40 as it loops east to Kamanjab. Petrified Forest nacobta.na. Declared a national monument in 1950, the Petrified Forest lies on a sandstone rise in the Aba-Huab Valley, affording a fine view of the surrounding countryside. Around 50 fossilized trees reckoned to be 260 million years old lie scattered over an area roughly 800 m by 300 m, some of them so perfectly preserved that it is hard to believe that they arent still alive. The absence of roots and branches suggests that the trees in the Petrified Forest do not originate from this area, rather that they were carried here by floodwaters resulting from retreating glaciers. After being deposited here the logs were saturated with silica-rich water which penetrated the cells of the trees, gradually causing petrification. The largest trees here measure more than 30 m in length with a circumference of 6 m and belong to a type of cone-bearing plant which flourished between 300 and 200 million years ago. Still alive, scattered among the fallen trees, are some fine examples of welwitschia mirabilis, ancient desert-dwelling plants, some of which are more than 1000 years old. The Petrified Forest is 58 km west of Khorixas on the C39. Beware the many false forests set up by entrepreneurial locals, especially the All New Petrified Forest further up the road. The real one has a large Namibian tourism brown signpost leading off the road. At the entrance are a pile of rocks that might interest the geologist or souvenir hunter, a few locally made, low-quality crafts, a kiosk for cold drinks, toilets and a thatched braai/ picnic area. Better light and cooler temperatures, mean early morning or late afternoon are probably the best times to visit if you are able to stay in the area. Twyfelfontein nacobta.na. Early inhabitants of the area must have been attracted to the valley by the small freshwater spring on the hillside and by the game grazing in the valley below. There is evidence of habitation more than 5000 years ago. The Damara who lived here named the valley Uri-Ais or jumping fountain after this source of freshwater. However, it was renamed Twyfelfontein or doubtful fountain in 1947 by the first white farmer to acquire the land; he considered the fountain too weak to support much life. The site was declared a national monument in 1952, but sadly this did not prevent many of the engravings being defaced or stolen, and local Damaras are now employed as guides to protect the rocks and take visitors on tours. It is currently in the advanced stage of being declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site, which will grant it further protection. More than 2500 engravings cut into the rockface of the huge boulders strewn around have been identified. These engravings have been categorized into six phases ranging in age from 300 BC to as recent as the 19th century. The majority of the engravings depict a wide range of game species, including elephant, rhino, lion and various antelopes. There are, interestingly, far fewer depictions of human figures. Although experts believe that rock paintings and engravings featured in ceremonies intended to imbue the hunters with the power to catch game, the picture of a seal on one of the rocks is particularly interesting considering that this site is more than 100 km from the sea. This suggests that some engravings may literally have been items in a gallery of game the Bushmen were familiar with. There are two guided trails to choose from depending on your level of fitness as the longer one involves a scramble over rocks; the Dancing Kudu Route takes half an hour, while the Lion Man Route takes about an hour. It is advisable to wear a hat, stout shoes and to carry water with you. Even if you are not especially interested in rock art, Twyfelfontein is still a fantastic place to come and watch the sunset, whilst imagining what life must have been like for earliest inhabitants of the area. Organ Pipes For many visitors the Organ Pipes and Burnt Mountain are of only passing interest, however, for anyone interested in the early history of the earth and its geology, they are fascinating glimpses into the past. The Organ Pipes are a series of perpendicular dolerite columns set at the bottom of a shallow gorge 3 km after the turn-off onto the D3254. These elegant rocks, some up to 5 m long, were formed 120 million years ago when the cooling dolerite split into distinct columns which form the pipes we see today. The easiest way to approach the site is to drive past the small (unsignposted) car park and turn left up a sandy riverbed a little further on. From here you can walk along the riverbed to the pipes without having to scramble down from above. Burnt Mountain The Burnt Mountain or Verbrandeberge is at the end of the D3214, a 12-km section of mountain rising 100 m above the plain. During the day the mountain is bleak and uninviting, however, the distinctive colouring of the rocks appears at sunrise and sunset when the imaginative might contest that the mountain is on fire. The rocks are dolerite and are believed to have been formed more than 130 million years ago as a result of volcanic activity. Wondergat The Wondergat, set down a short track off the D3254, 3 km before reaching Aba-Huab campsite, offers an interesting view into the bowels of the earth. There are no signposts or safety barriers so be careful near the edge. The hole is believed to have been created when a subterranean river washed away a chunk of earth. Its depth is still unknown - a team of divers turned back due to lack of oxygen at 100 m, without reaching the bottom.
Posted on: Mon, 03 Mar 2014 23:58:50 +0000
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