here aren’t many representatives of Russian cuisine in Budapest, in part because this cuisine is perhaps difficult to define, perhaps also because it suffers from an ingredient-related image problem compared to other national cuisines represented in the city. One of the very few exceptions to this statement is Arany Kaviár (Golden Caviar), which tackles these two problems by, first, adopting a fairly lax, geopolitically controversial definition of Russian (Ukrainian and Georgian also feature on the menu) and, second, shining in its selection of ingredients to such an extent that it is possible, for instance, to choose such otherwise under-inspiring dishes as marinated herring salad with eyes closed and guaranteed satisfaction. At this point, and in the interest of transparency, it should be noted that there is no connection between these lines and the fact that Arany Kaviár is one of this newspaper’s long-term advertising partners. With quality often comes price and this establishment is in line with the rule, coming in as one of the more expensive restaurants in town. Reassuringly, it also comes with a distinct feeling of opulence carried through by the heavy draperies covering walls, tables and chairs, and the attentive but not overbearing service (admittedly also occasionally belied by the choice of tinned Slavic pop and electronically-enhanced reworkings of eastern classics). Weather permitting, the small courtyard at the back – part canopied patio and part lawn, flowers and kitchen herbs – helps bring down the solemnity a notch while retaining the levels of elegance and quality. Dining options are regularly changed, reasonably varied and more often than not structured in menus – caviar menu, fish menu, with or without wine or vodka recommendations, though these are also available a la carte. Come lunchtime the price bracket is notched downwards somewhat with the inclusion of a Russian bistro menu, a three- or four-course menu for a fixed price including water, a glass of wine and coffee. Past the appetiser (a small, olive-encrusted roll of soft goat’s cheese with raspberries and cherry tomatoes on a fresh-tasting bed of peas) and the helping of home-made flatbread (special mention for the accompanying coins of plain and herby butter), starters included at this point herring with variations on the theme of cucumber (pickled, raw and so on) that well fitted the description provided in the introduction above. 27Soup (borscht, solyanka, and bear’s garlic with smoked duck breast) was passed over this time in favour of heading straight for mains, in this case simple, light, harmoniously prepared trout, speckled with black sea salt and served with a variety of marrow textures – some grated, some cubed and some stuffed miniatures – a lot of dill and some mayonnaise-inspired sauce. Widening options, as well as portion size and price bracket, a la carte also serves up some delicious combinations of Slavic and seasonal ingredients. The platter of marinated and smoked fishes (trout, herring, salmon, with a few salty, pop-in-the-mouth salmon roe) is at once simple and perfect. A touch of mascarpone (not all of which is necessary) and a few dots of wasabi-strength green are the only distraction from the succulent fish. Duck breast and liver, the first well but not overcooked, the other soft and melting, and both seared and slightly sweet on the outside, are served for mains on a blanket of carrot puree enlivened by baby carrots and concentrated blobs of elderflower jelly. The pair of small, rounded, fried dumplings is less exciting but does not detract too much from the main action, which is well harmonised and bursting with flavour. Come dessert time Arany Kaviár often falls a little short of the standards it sets for itself in the savoury section. Like the menu’s coffee-flavoured medavik cake or the a la carte’s chocolate cake with its high cocoa content well offset by mango jelly, desserts here tend to lack the little creative spark that turns something very good into something worth committing to memory. But they are still that: very good and, with the wine (international list, sommelier advice on hand), coffee, vodkas, champagnes, kvass (fermented rye bread drink) and other optional add-ons available, contribute to fulfilling all expectations. Unlike other lunch-menu places in Budapest that adopt a speed-based approach to serving (not, in itself, a bad thing for busy tourists or office workers), Arany Kaviár functions on a more leisurely reading of the clock. On a carefree day, with the sun shining and a well-dressed table displaying attractive dishes, it makes for one of Budapest’s most pleasant – if expensive – dining options. Price points Starters and soups HUF 1,890-3,950 Mains: HUF 3,900-14,900 Desserts: HUF 1,850-2,500 Caviar: from HUF 4,900 Lunch menu: HUF5,900-6,900 Other menus: from HUF12,900 Arany Kaviár District 1, Ostrom u. 19 Open daily, 12noon-3pm and 6pm-midnight Tel. (+36-1) 201-6737, 227-7370 aranykaviar.hu
Posted on: Sat, 13 Jul 2013 08:48:33 +0000
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