previously i post about yarn, today i post types of yarn. its important for all textile and garments related responsible. Melange yarn: Melange means mixture. Melange yarn means mixture of different shades of yarns. There are different melange yarns. They are Grey melange, Ecru melange, bleached melange, Flax melange, Color melange, etc. Melange yarns are generally made with Cotton and Viscose fibers. According to the required percentage and color shades, the fibers are mixed together before making into yarn. Grey Melange, Ecru Melange, Bleached Melange are used widely. These melange yarns are generally in the composition of 85%Cotton / 15%Viscose approximately. In these yarns, the cotton portion will be in light shade and the Viscose portion will be in dark shade. In color melange yarn also, the cotton portion will be in light shade. For light colour mélange yarn, it is enough to add little percentage of Viscose. But for dark colour mélange yarns, higher percentage of Viscose to be added to get dark shades. For example, the Dark Blue colour mélange yarns will have 55%Cotton / 45%Viscose approximately. But we have to remember that if we use colour mélange yarns with higher percentage of Viscose, the fabric made with these yarns will have higher shrinkage; also the shrinkage can not be controlled. The fabric may have very soft feel and shiny look. But we must think of shrinkage, which is very important. Hence, we have to be very cautious of the percentage or composition of Viscose. It is safer not to use mélange yarns with higher percentage of Viscose, due to higher shrinkage. To avoid this shrinkage problem, colour mélange yarns made by 100%Cotton fibers are also used. But this is more expensive than normal colour mélange yarn with Viscose blend. But as we use 100% Cotton, the shrinkage can be controlled to the acceptable level. Also there is another way to solve shrinkage problem. Fabric can be made with Ecru mélange or Grey mélange and can be over dyed to required dark shades. Cost wise, there will not be big difference between colour mélange yarn and over dyeing. But this method will solve the shrinkage problem. Dyed yarn: For making the stripes and jacquard design fabrics, the dyed yarns are used. Yarns are dyed by manually and by sophisticated machines. In manual yarn dyeing, we can not expect the consistency of shades, yarn strength and better quality. Hence it is always advised to dye the yarns with the latest machines only. For yarn dyeing, only combed yarns are used. Also the yarn should have more yarn strength. It is called Count Strength Product (CSP). The prices of dyed yarn are based on the counts and colour shades. For easy reference, the dyed yarn price of 30’s Medium colour will be around Rs.250 per kg. The prices for other colours will be differed according to the shades. The prices of other counts are based on the price differences of grey (kora) yarns. Mercerised Yarn: This is a very special quality yarn. There is a huge difference between the mercerised yarns and normal type of cotton yarns. These yarns are made with selective fibers with longer lengths by thoroughly removing the lifeless, dull and dead cottons. Mercerised yarns are always in 2 ply, like 60/2, 80/2, 100/2. It means 2 yarns of same counts have to be twisted together. The minimum counts, which can be doubled, are 50s. So minimum mercerised yarn can be 50/2. Let us see some important things about these special yarns. As the finer cottons are used, the yarn contains more cotton, giving more resistance and silky feel. These yarns are made exclusively of long fibers, as the combing process removes shorter fibers. As these yarns are made in multi-ply (2 ply), they have 10 – 15% more resistance than single ply yarns. This will give more life to the garments. After combing and twisting, the yarn will be singed (gassed). By this process, the yarn will pass rapidly through flames and the superficial hair around the yarn would be eliminated. Due to more heat, the hairy particles of the yarn will be burnt out. (Now this is called Gassed Yarn). Then the yarn is treated with caustic soda under perfectly controlled tension. This process is called Mercerising. Mercerising is done to strengthen the yarn and to improve luster of yarn. After mercerising, the yarn will have great strength and greater brightness. Also the yarn will capture 20% more humidity without getting wet. Further, this mercerising process increases the resistance of yarn and reduces its becoming dirty. (Now the yarn is called Gassed Mercerised Yarn). These yarns do not create allergies to body. Due to its high resistance properties, these yarns are used for knitwear, underwear and hosiery. The garments made with mercerised yarns can be washed an infinite number of times without losing luster. Also the garments will not be deformed regarding shape. They have exceptional ability to absorb and disperse body perspiration. So these mercerised yarns are very special due to its special qualities. If two yarns of 60’s counts are gassed, then we get 2/60’s gassed yarn. Then after mercerizing, the yarn is called 2/60’s mercerised yarn. The special features of Gassed Mercerised yarns are 1. Used for making very expensive special garments. 2. Luster and shininess of yarn / fabric / garments. 3. Complete evenness throughout the yarn / fabric / garments. 4. Very less shrinkage of yarn / fabric / garments. 5. Longer life of garments. After making the fabrics with these Gassed Mercerised yarns, the fabric has to be mercerised again with caustic soda to get the permanent shiny look. As mercerising is done two times, one in yarn stage and another in fabric stage, this is called ‘Double Mercerising’. As the prices of Mercerised yarns are higher than Gassed yarns, to minimise the cost, Gassed yarns can be used instead of Mercerised yarns. After making the fabrics with Gassed yarns, fabrics have to be mercerised again. We will get the shiny look on the fabric. But this shiny look will not be permanent and will be inferior comparing with the fabric used with Gassed Mercerised yarns. In this method, as the yarn is not mercerised and as only the fabric is mercerised, it is called ‘Single Mercerising’. In any case, the fabric has to be mercerised before fabric dyeing. Also Gassed Mercerised Dyed yarns are available. For yarn striped and jacquard design fabrics, these dyed yarns are used. Grindle Yarns: These yarns are also called ‘Twisted Yarns’. Two yarns of same counts but in different colours are twisted together. Among these 2 colours, one colour will be in lighter shade and the other will be in darker shade. After the twisting, the yarn will be in a different mixing shade. We must be sure of these yarns are in same counts and have same yarn strength. Also when they are being twisted together, the number of twists per inch (usually 14) should be even for the full length of yarn. If the twisting is not done properly, then we will face problems during knitting. The prices of grindle yarns depend on the colours, counts, etc. Please visit and like this page for more info about textile and garments. https://facebook/pages/Textilechemicalsbdcom/310045622533637?ref=hl
Posted on: Thu, 06 Nov 2014 09:57:48 +0000
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