Bare Essentials Waimea Nov 88 114 Gun Rmks: It doesnt happen often but when it reaches true Size, The Bay is a thick Pile driving Drop with some Heavy Water that humbles all. And Thank God, thats all it is For most part, surfing the Bay was a blurrr. Everything moves sooo fassst. Except, The Takeoff and Wipeout. During those events, Time appears to slow. To describe a Brutal hold down at the Bay:. Violent, Loud and Dark On the really bad beatings,You hit bottom , The urge to breath following by the tingling of Body as per the bodys desperate Need for Air. On a 2 WAVE Hold down, Its a survival fight to get back up..Its during that moment your LIFE EVENTS FLASHES Bye. Now,..Once back up, You feel sluggish, Numb tingly and see black spots ( almost feel, punch drunk ). As fellow riders paddle to assist, then stare and welcome you back from a near journey to the After life. . Best Training for big wave riding, Heavy Skin Diving! If you love to spear fish thats ideal. I also employed a routine of heavy wind sprints while holding the breath. Those 2 combination of workouts in addition to a harden mindset, SAVED MY LIFE on numerous Occasions. *** Would be great to have A Waimea Facebook page where past / current Riders could post /share their Photos and Experiences. What a treasure trove that would be. Throughout the Decades MANY GREAT RIDES , BRUTAL WIPE-OUTS. and Tragically, some Deaths. Yet, as the ages march on, Im certain every Current and Past Waimea Rider will drift back to Recollection.In retrospect as I Step back,** Most of us Past riders (To include My buddy TRIP FREEMAN) have Gracefully Aged and moved on with our lives. I truly Admire Uncle Peter Cole for surfing the bay as long as he did (well into his mid sixties). MY HERO ! The thrill and Gravity of it all really didnt manifest with me..Until the the Donnie Solomon Drowning.Till this day, I still see the Lifeguards performing CPR that Tragic Dec 23rd 1995
Posted on: Fri, 19 Dec 2014 17:31:57 +0000
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