Its India Day Seven: Pushkar (16 Nov 13) Udaipur - Ajmer Express From Ajmer, we shared a small taxi with two American college co-eds enrolled in a health sciences study-abroad program. During the 40-minute ride across the Snake Mountain Pass to Pushkar, they told us of the challenges and joys of studying in India. Both had been sick just once in their three-month-to-date stay. (Always a common topic of discussion of travelers in India.) They are the first Americans we have met in India and seemed to confirm our observation that indeed, American travelers are rare in these parts. It has become a bit of a game for us when starting conversations with Indians to ask them to guess where were from. They never guess America. (They understand the word America, but usually are unfamiliar with USA.) The co-eds, ourselves, and thousands of Indian pilgrims have come to Pushkar for the annual camel fair culminating with the full moon in the eighth lunar month, Kartika. This is one of the holiest times in the holiest of Hindu cities. Here, the Lord Brahma was said to have dropped a lotus flower, from which sprang the holy lake around which Pushkar surrounds. Today, Pushkar is home to one of the few Brahma temples of the world, which dominates the pedestrian route snaking through several miles of bazaars. Pushkar also hosts about 400 temples that are milky blue in color, as well as some 52 bathing ghats along the lake. Brahma was said to have bathed at whats now called Brahma Ghat and Mahatma Gandhis ashes were scattered at whats now called Gandhi Ghat. As we walked through Puskar, there was the sound of drums, chanting, and gongs. Along the way a number of devout followers of Brahma gave us rose pedals to drop in the lake. Approaching the lake at one of the bathing ghats, we were each hosted by a Brahman priest (with official ID) who led us through a series of chants and explained the religious significance of the ceremonies. Not surprisingly, all this led to a plea for donations (receipt provided), but nonetheless the experience proved special for both of us. From the bathing ghats, the pedestrian way (Sadar Bazaar) led to the Camel Fair, where each year in coordination with the holy days, nearly quarter of a million people trek some 50,000 camels, horses, and cattle across the Rajasthan Desert to Pushkar. This year, most of the buying and trading ended early as the years weather proved not favorable for the local economies. Most of Rajasthan had received only one day of monsoon rain, which occurred on the 15th of August. Thus, crops failed, vegetation became extremely sparse, and water holes dried up. Nevertheless, the camel fair with its side-show of carnival activities was a spectacle were unlikely to see matched anywhere. Reminiscing on our return at night to our guest house outside Pushkar, we missed our road and strayed miles away. Finally, by sixth sense and full moon, we found foot paths across agricultural fields that eventually led us home. We will never forget Pushkar.
Posted on: Fri, 29 Nov 2013 07:48:09 +0000
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