Lately Ive been working on freeing the Glass Menagerie on the North Face of Looking Glass. Unfortunately for my sending aspirations, I am moving to Utah next week and will probably not redpoint all the pitches in one push as Id hoped. However, having now been on the thing 10 times or so, I thought I could share some beta: First, hardware. I know that Philip Hoffmann was involved in some rebolting on the GM last year (not sure who else to thank for that, but many thanks), but I feel like the Open Book pitch (the 5.12d pitch, usually pitch 2) could use some love. My intention was to replace the bolts either after sending or sometime when it gets too cold for me to work on it anymore, whichever was first. Obviously, I wont be able to do this. So, for anyone considering it, Id recommend a re-bolt (6 bolts) on the Open Book. Ideally, Id like to see the current hardware removed (if possible), drilled out if necessary, and replaced with glue-ins in the same holes for the ultimate in replaceable longevity. It would be a shame to put any more holes in that pitch than necessary. Second, there is currently a perma-draw of sorts on the Open Book, bolt 3. Its a tatty sling, a too-skinny quicklink, and a surprisingly nice wire gate that was recently bootied. I could see value in this perma-draw, especially if youre a bit on the shorter side. I intended to replace it with a steel cable style perma-draw with a steel biner. At this point I dont think it changes the nature of the pitch significantly for free or aid, it is a logical place for one, and its the only spot on the pitch where its even remotely necessary. Id leave this open to discussion, those are just my 2 cents. Third, the bolted anchors atop the off-width pitch and at the summit after the exit crack are in decent condition but will need replacing sooner than later. They were also on my list of stuff to replace. Id like to propose that the bolts at the top of the OW pitch get moved from the slab theyre sitting on and onto the wall to the right of the crack. This provides a far better position for modern anchor building and belaying techniques without detrimentally impacting the rappel descent. Lastly, about hardware, the rappelling hardware (quicklinks, tatty slings, etc.) on the anchors have all been replaced or buttressed as appropriate to prevent rope twisting and other shenanigans when rappelling. My good friends Travis Weil and Lance Sullins were gracious enough to haul my hardware up with them yesterday and put the appropriate items in place on the existing bolts and hangers. Everything that was added is stainless and should last a while. Note: for those not wanting any kind of beta blast, read no further. Ive posted my preferred descent beta in the comments on mountain project for interested parties: mountainproject/v/the-glass-menagerie/105980466 Ive also got beta for hauling and rappelling without having to tag a line. Take one 70m lead rope. With just a bit of rope-tossing effort, the leader can untie at the top of pretty much every pitch and throw the rope end back to the second to haul the pack. For the most part that should be pretty self-explanatory with a couple exceptions: 1) Where the free and aid lines diverge above the roof there are two bolts in close enough proximity that they might as well be an anchor. The leader can stop here (halfway up the pitch), clip into each bolt, pull the rope up, and toss it back to the second below the roof and haul the pack. The pack is left hanging on one of the bolts for the second to pick up. Alternately, if the second doesnt want to free the 5.10+ with a pack on, the leader could send the rope down for another short haul from the free anchors atop the roof pitch. 2) The free climb traverse after the roof is a bit scary for the second. To mitigate this, using a 70m rope, the leader can tie in at the middle mark and lead on one side of the rope. The follower can climb on the side of the rope that is not clipped to any protection. In this way, rope drag can be managed a bit better and the second is looking at a swinging top rope fall instead of nasty pendulum falls if they blow the traverse moves. All other pitches are short enough that hauling is reasonable if desired. A second rope stashed on the ground allows for rappelling on just one 70m until the last rappel. The first person down can tie the stashed rope on and the second person can just tag it up to rappel on two lines like normal. Sorry for the length--feel like I wrote a novel. Ive been super psyched on this project for a few months now and just want to offer my hard-won bits of information for the next intrepid individual who sets out on the GM.
Posted on: Wed, 24 Sep 2014 20:46:05 +0000
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