Sharing 002 TIP: My LANDSCAPE Trip/Workflow Not - TopicsExpress



          

Sharing 002 TIP: My LANDSCAPE Trip/Workflow Not comprehensive but some idea of what I do and may not suit you. Develop your own that you are happy with. Hope this will help some who are starting off. PLANNING: 1. Take water ( water for drink & clean lens if water/rain spray), some medicine (pandol), lollies/dry snacks, 2. Clean lenses, check u have yr CF/etc cards. Use Extreme Sandisk minimum 60mb/sec write 3. Charge batteries, take several clean cloths. 4. ** take friend/s for safety and security & let someone know where you are going if its a distance or potentials risks/danger eg the city hahaha POINTS 1. Usual shoot Raw, mainly sunrise and sunset but also during day but under tree coverage for the most part. 2. Usual sturdy tripod and shutter/remote release 3. Use filters if you have them but not essential , if no filter shoot several shots ie -2, -1, 0, 1 , etc and use blend dark for skies & lighter for foreground TAKING THE SHOTS 1. Usual composition and as my previous tip, I shoot 180 degrees with 50% overlap most times at 2 diff heights, mostly 2. I dont worry about levelling the camera but get it as close as possible as there is not much time for sunrise and sunset 3. Depending on the lens and/or effect ( DOF), I use mainly F11 to F22, iso 100, and for infinity focus I check the Hyperfocal distance of the lens. I downloaded an app for iPhone called DOF master. IMPORTANT: If you do Panorama shots DO NOT USE AUTO WHITE BALANCE, as when you stitch you will get uneven colour and discrepancies in the image. PROCESSING: This is a fine balance between what you saw and your creative mind or a combination of both. STEP 1 - RAW ADJUSTMENTS 1. I edit in a raw editor as 1st step. Raw Editor (Adobe Camera Raw)set to 16 bit, 300ppi, prophoto. Start off with the highest colorspace, printers/technology will change over time to leverage on this. 2. the usual adjustments to over & under exposures, color & lens correction, distortion , horizon, dirt/dust spots fix etc 3. be careful not to over sharpen 4. Zoom in to area where there is dark against light area and check for colour/chromatic aberrations, and fix if required 5. I do not remove normally Colour Cast for sunset and sunrise , unless my filter added color cast however If i do day shots then I try to resolve this to get the correct white balance. 6. I check the HISTOGRAM at all times. STEP 2 - PHOTOSHOP (PS) Colour space set colorspace to Prohoto, gamma set to 1.8. 1. 1st step is to create a copy of the original layer. Wherever possible I use non destructive edits 2. I zoom into darks, mid tones and light area and check for noise., fix noise, there are many plugins (noiseware, topaz etc) around or use PS to achieve this, NOTE: When you remove noise make sure you are zoomed in at least 100-200% & check the the darks & midtone areas. IMPORTANT: critical to check that detail is not lost by over doing it. 3. I use LUMINOSITY MASKS to target the Lights, Darks and Mid-tones of the image. Many videos on Youtube, check it out. 4. Fix and remove dirt/dust spots to the best of my ability (I am fairly slack at this) 5. I check the HISTOGRAM at all times. CREATIVE ADJUSTMENTS 5. Really up to you as to what you saw or if you just wish to do your artistic adjustments IMPORTANT: --Be mindful of GLOBAL adjustments and know when and when not to use it. --Combine it with TARGETED adjustments, this applies to shadows/highlights, saturation, sharpening or any of the PS adjustment options you use eg ( levels, curves etc) --Essential to learn MASKING techniques use luminosity or manual masking techniques. -- It important to ensure the image does not look FLAT from ones adjustments, there needs to be contrast and depth -- do not over sharpen as it adds noise & possible halos, makes image look grungy and unrealistic unless that the look you are after. All personal choice though -- Sky and water are never sharp, so I do not sharpen these SAVING THE FILE 1. I save the working file with layers as the MASTER FILE either PSD or PSB in photoshop 2. I create a JPG for the web , sharpened at 72ppi. 3. If someone wants a PRINT/SALE I go through another PRINT process which I did in an earlier TIP. In a nutshell this file is a flattended TIF that has extra work to clean change the color space to JPG/aRGB, dirt/dust, noise, sharpen, color proofing etc. Its set up for the paper and PRINT LAB requirements. BACKUP your files. ( I admit I fail in this Keep practicing but most of all have fun.
Posted on: Fri, 28 Mar 2014 13:07:32 +0000

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