Tobago. I got a comment through the etha recently, “I wonder where Lilly Bolero is?” I knew an update was due, now I’ve been prompted. I swing in my hamoc on a still night in Pirates Bay, I’ve turned myself away from the sunken sun and the flashing fireflies to this glaring screen, I read recently that the average child in the U.K. spends half their waking hours in front of a screen just like this! I wonder if their listening to African reggae too? Its hard to describe this setting without corny references to Paradise, –I’ve put out a stern anchor to pull the back of Lilly in closer to the shore where coral gives way to a thin band of rocks and pebbles before the forest comes tumbling down the hillside. In the day the huge trees are prominent and there’s an abundance of all shades of green, and the occasional splash of mauve blossom. Parrots at least in pairs often flocks flutter from headland to headland squwalking, chattering and laughing at each other. Frigate birds soar high up way over the Northern end of Tobago. I wonder what they’re looking out for, maybe feeding terns or dolphins, indicating fish about, then they’ll swoop seawards like terradactyles, to harras and steal their meals. A couple of weeks ago dolphins visited daily and a bunch of us were lucky enough to swim and dive in amongst them. Other days a manta ray has cruised through the anchorage, another day I saw a massive leather back turtle. I haven’t yet taken advantage of the opportunity to go with a local group to see and protect turtles laying eggs on a beach across the bay. I have 3 resident sucker fish or Ramoras which live under Lilly, ugly critters which pounce on anything I throw or pump over the side, I should name them. After the sun has set into the sea the fireflies and occasional phosphouresence come out to show off. So it’s beautiful! The anchorage is fuller than I’ve ever seen it, 15 to 20 boats, mostly French, some of whom were here last year, others that they’ve told, so there’s socialising to be had if I so wish, barbecues on the beach, sundowners, or should I say aperatifs, though to be honest I’m enjoying a slight seperateness, focusing more on Lilly’s joblest which I’m pottering through rather than attacking. A recent ear infection has meant I’ve been keeping out of the water and not spearfishing, which has been a little frustration but probably good as far as the joblist is concerned. The major job once alone has been to grind and sand the beams and deck head (the ceiling for landlubbers) and varnish and paint, It meant a week of thick dust and chaos but is now light, clean and beautiful, as are the new seat cusions and covers. Among my neighbours are the lovely Jean-Marc and Mama who are always willing to help with such projects, and are great company enough should I want it. Taking on a big dirty job got the work ethic ball rolling and I’ve managed a few hours a day doing something – more recently I’ve been swinging round the rig, wrapping, varnishing, sewing and oiling. At this pace I enjoy the work and the love affair with Lilly grows ever stronger. The feeling and knowledge that Home and Europe is just a stones throw away, is a draw and a distraction from the utter isolation of my image of total paradise, but the easy access to communication – primarily internet! Means its possible to linger comfortably on the fringe of society, and stay well in touch. Its funny this stopping, So different from the voyages or the island hopping with a boat full of souls, or the urgent trudgery in a boat yard, it feels closer to just living and allows time for reading, writing, talking and pottering, I guess inevitably I become more pensive, more focused on thought, I want to say introspective but its not just about me, fuelled with great discussions with JM and Mama and great letter contact with friends and family, it’s nice, and waking to the sound of the sea lapping on the shore, and the shouting parrots is a good start, I’m enjoying the simple life here. The crew search has proved to be harder than expected, guess people see the Caribbean as somewhere to go on holiday, not to crew, but also largely I guess Lilly and I don’t have so much to offer, no big passages, destinations or travel, only bay hopping around these islands. I’m sure if I were to embrace the charter market things would be different. Though a little income would be nice, what I’d really like to do is continue this upgrading of Lilly, build a new sailing dingi, spend time with loved ones… hopefully not out of the question, before sailing homeward next May. Well that all feels rather brief, but here we are. Kieran
Posted on: Fri, 02 Aug 2013 16:44:52 +0000
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