10 Tips to Maximize Your Whole-House Remodel Cover all the bases - TopicsExpress



          

10 Tips to Maximize Your Whole-House Remodel Cover all the bases now to ensure many years of satisfaction with your full renovation, second-story addition or bump-out If a whole-house re­model or sec­ond-story ad­di­tion is in your fu­ture, here’s are 10 tips to max­i­mize your in­vest­ment, in­crease the func­tion­al­ity of your home and make fu­ture work eas­ier. Keep­ing them in mind when work­ing with your ar­chi­tect or con­trac­tor could help lower your costs and stress dur­ing your next re­model. 1. Con­sider wa­ter. Don’t add bath­rooms with­out look­ing care­fully at your wa­ter sup­ply lines and the ca­pac­ity of your wa­ter heater. A smaller tank or one with lengthy re­cov­ery times may not meet your needs. This is es­pe­cially true if you se­lect a new 80-gal­lon soak­ing tub and you have a 50-gal­lon tank. Con­sider a sep­a­rate tan­k­less or tank heater for your sec­ond story, or a larger tank with a re­cir­cu­la­tion pump that keeps hot wa­ter right at your taps. Also con­sider how large your street-side wa­ter sup­ply lines are. If you add enough fix­tures, the plumb­ing code may re­quire you to up­grade to a larger sup­ply line. And if you still have gal­va­nized pip­ing, this is prob­a­bly the time to take it all out. 2. Get the right gas me­ter. More gas ap­pli­ances usu­ally means a larger me­ter. Most util­ity providers will re­quire you to add up the BTU (British ther­mal unit) re­quire­ments of your ap­pli­ances (fur­nace, wa­ter heater, range, washer-dryer, bar­be­cue, fire­place) and size your me­ter ac­cord­ingly. Or maybe you’re adding that bar­be­cue and fire­place in a few years? Siz­ing the me­ter larger now and run­ning pipe where you will need it can save you money in the fu­ture. 3. Deaden the sound. While your friends will not be able to ad­mire all that pretty in­su­la­tion in your walls, they will be re­lieved to not hear what’s go­ing on in the pow­der room since you in­su­lated all the walls with sound in­su­la­tion. You can choose from Rock­wool in­su­la­tion, sound board or dry­wall specif­i­cally de­signed to deaden sound trans­mis­sion through wall cav­i­ties. Us­ing re­silient chan­nels in ceil­ings can also help stop sound trans­mis­sion from one floor or room to an­other. You may also want sound in­su­la­tion around your laun­dry room and me­dia room and in shared bed­room walls. 4. Avoid the wa­ter­fall noise. Dec­o­ra­tive wa­ter­falls are sooth­ing in a back­yard, but not when you hear them run­ning through your walls. Plas­tic waste pipe in walls — in­su­lated or not — can cre­ate the very au­di­ble sound of fall­ing wa­ter. This is not an is­sue when the pipes run into an un­fin­ished base­ment, but when you add a sec­ond story, those waste lines come down through one or more main floor walls. Up­grad­ing to cast iron waste pipes will go a long way to­ward mak­ing them in­vis­i­ble to the ear. 5. In­vest in quiet ex­haust fans. They are re­quired by code in many lo­ca­tions, gen­er­ally where you have run­ning wa­ter. But if you in­tend to reg­u­larly use your ex­haust fans, in­vest in quiet ones. A loud fan can be au­di­ble and even shake the floor in which it is in­stalled. Con­sider care­fully how you will use your fans and make the most fre­quently used ones as quiet and low vi­bra­tion as pos­si­ble. Con­sider timers for them too, or hu­midis­tats, which mea­sure the hu­mid­ity in the air and turn the fans off when they reach their set level. Mo­tion-sen­sor fans are also an op­tion. 6. Plan ahead. Think you might like to add so­lar be­fore the fed­eral tax credit ex­pires at the end of 2016? Plan for it now. Pon­der­ing an elec­tric car? In­stall a cir­cuit for a charg­ing sta­tion just in case. Think you can live with­out air-con­di­tion­ing but might want it when you can af­ford it? Plan for that too. You may even have a sec­ond phase planned. Make sure all the en­gi­neer­ing and me­chan­i­cal sys­tems for that next phase are in place and ready to go. Pho­tos are crit­i­cal when you go this route. Take mul­ti­ple pho­tos with a mea­sur­ing tape in the pic­ture be­fore cov­er­ing these pro­vi­sions for your fu­ture project. 7. Up­grade your elec­tri­cal panel. Take a re­ally good look at your elec­tri­cal panel. If it’s 100 am­peres and ev­ery slot is filled, chances are that youre a prime can­di­date for a panel up­grade. Even if its 125 or 200 am­peres, added rooms and an up­dated kitchen will of­ten re­quire a panel up­grade. Re­mem­ber, too, that code gov­erns where pan­els can be, and that means not in a closet. If you still have an­ti­quated wiring, this may also be the ideal op­por­tu­nity to run new wiring and ground all those out­lets. 8. Weight the pros and cons of new sid­ing, win­dows and doors. A sec­ond-story or bump-out ad­di­tion begs the ques­tion: Stick with the win­dows, doors and sid­ing you have or choose some­thing new? Your de­ci­sion may be forced by struc­tural re­quire­ments. If enough of your ex­te­rior walls need sid­ing re­moved and ply­wood nailed on, it may make sense to re­place ev­ery­thing. But if you have brick at the main level, you may want to use ce­ment or wood sid­ing at your ad­di­tion. Win­dow and door match­ing gen­er­ally makes sense only if what’s ex­ist­ing is al­ready in pretty good shape or is pro­hib­i­tively ex­pen­sive to repli­cate. The choice is unique to ev­ery home; con­sult with your con­trac­tor and ar­chi­tect on the best way to pro­ceed.
Posted on: Thu, 24 Oct 2013 08:52:41 +0000

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