5 NATIONS TRIP 2014 The objectives of this trip were to visit a number of well-known places that we had missed in the past, and to provide members with a 4 week journey that could be shortened for those who needed to be home in 3 weeks. RENDEZVOUS AT NAMBWA – ZAMBESI REGION – NAMIBIA:. Our meeting place was 2650km from Cape Town, in the well-known Golden Triangle, where the Horseshoe Lagoon is a major feature. Mary and I arrived there a couple of days early, as did Andrey & Olga Truscalo and John Fincham, with John & Lana Zulch coming in the next day. Then Dave & Anne Roy, Schalk & Rieta Louw and Hans Hundschied pitched up on schedule for 2 nights prior to our departure for Zambia. Game drives to Horseshoe lived up to expectation with enormous elephant herds viewed. We all opted for a boat trip on the Kwando River, with the morning group seeing many bird species hippo, crocs, buck, baboons etc, with the sunset group catching elephant bathing in the Kwando River. Leopard spoor in camp each night confirmed the one viewed by Hans on his way in. This was Mary and my 4th visit to this very special place, and Schalk & Rieta were also enjoying a return visit . LIUWA PLAINS NATIONAL PARK - ZAMBIA: Departing early for Katima Malilo for fuel, groceries and Kwatchas, we fought our way through the pay-pay-pay Zambian border, travelling on the new tar road for most of the distance to Ngonye [Sioma Falls] campsite. Starting with a hike from reception to view the falls, we found the campsite pleasant, with an efficient bucket shower and flush toilet. The next day we had opted for taking the Western route up the Barotsi flood plain of the Zambesi towards Liuwa. About mid-morning we came to the Little Lauti River to find that the Chinese army are constructing a new bridge, and had closed the road. After obtaining permission from the Major, Mary and I carefully traversed a temporary causeway guided by Schalk, but the last section was too deep. The rear of our vehicle landed heavily in the trough, compressing the fuel tank and breaking the fuel pump. A Chinese front-end loader pulled us out, and the group spent some time checking and confirming the destroyed pump. Schalk and Rieta towed the Pajero with Dave & Anne ahead of the group until nightfall, where we camped in the bush. Andrey & Olga hit an overhead branch on the road, damaging the diesel tank mounted on their roof carrier. The next day the 3 of us parted from the rest, heading directly for Mongu to seek assistance, whilst the others kept to the schedule, lead by John & Lana, and crossing the very dubious ferry to Liuwa Plains Kwale Campsite. We also ended up on a ferry, which took us to an impassible route upstream of the new causeway and extensive bridge system being constructed by the Chinese over the Zambesi flood plain. Eventually we reaching Mongu very late, with Mary and I being very grateful for the tow and escort for 150km. The Roy and Louw vehicles left for Liuwa the following day, and at Kwale Camp the rest were busy with game drives, and recovering from the journey. Best day trips were to drive further north for game viewing, with hyena, zebra, buck and birds being of a high standard. After 3 nights the road to Mongu was about a return ferry crossing, and then negotiating with the locals and their Chinese bosses to be allowed to pass over the new bridge construction. Can you imagine a Chinese arguing with a Russian? The 6 vehicles arrived at Mutoya campsite to find that temporary repairs had been concluded on the Pajero, and apart from the leaking fuel tank and reduced capacity, we were ready to roll. Great hot showers and plenty of shade there, with very helpful people, Jaycee and Matt in command. KAFUE NATIONAL PARK – ZAMBIA: Heading for Mayukuyuku for 3 nights it was great for Mary and I to be re-united with the group. Our new campsite was on the banks of the Kafue River, full of hippo & crocs, with lion caught in John & Lana`s night camera moving between our vehicles. Dave & Anne the next day saw a leopard, then followed up with a lion siting. Apart from the monkeys, buck, and a variety of birds, there was a hippo wandering around the campsite at lunch time one day. Olga, Hans and John Bird [ sorry...Fincham] enjoyed a boat trip, and at night we all enjoyed the sounds of the wild, including what sounded like a kill. Mary and I were charged by a bad-tempered elephant, which did likewise to Schalk and Rieta the following day. John & Lana`s friends, Alan & Michelle, spent a day and night with us, and we enjoyed their company at our braai after Alan had landed a few fish in the river. Dave`s Defender needed attention after bending a tie rod and retaining bracket, with the local `workshop` called into action. After 3 nights we headed South to Nanzhila in Southern Kafue, seeing elephant, lion and Rhone antelope on the way, passing Itezhi Tezhi lake, and finding that area quite lush and marshy. The campsite was great, with a honey-badger paying us a visit that night. This was only a transit camp for us, and we were sorry to leave the next morning. LAKEVIEW – KARIBA – ZAMBIA: We experienced a poor gravel road from the Dundumwezi Park gate to the tar road, and then to Choma for fuel and shopping. Just after getting used to the tar, we encountered a pretty poor stretch down to the shores of the impressive Lake Kariba. Unfortunately there was no water for the showers the first night, [we were refunded our camp fees], and even after being fixed the ablution facilities remained poor. However we were there to go Tiger fishing, and after 2 hour trip the next morning on a cruise boat, we docked at Chingkana Island Lodge, which is part of Lakeview. We dropped off those who just wished to relax, and spent the morning trying to match an early catch by John Zulch. Then back to the lodge for a tasty lunch and swim, before that man John did it again, reeling in another Tiger from the moored boat. The next morning was cold and windy, which did not deter some of us from trying unsuccessfully for more Tiger. Later the weather cleared, and the pool area became very popular. Andrey & Olga had decided to travel to Victoria Falls that day to ensure they could see the falls prior to the group`s Hwange visit. Dave & Anne, with Schalk & Rieta, arranged to leave early on our travel day to do likewise, but unfortunately Rieta fell from the rooftop tent ladder, dislocating her elbow. The 2 vehicles travelled early for Livingstone hospital, where they were able to have her attended to. This facility had no bandages, and were amazed at the contents of Schalks` first aid kit! [She is booked off work for September, and we wish her well] HWANGE NATIONAL PARK – ZIMBABWE: The balance of the group had stopped for fuel and shopping at Choma, where I purchased a bottle of local whiskey, [later thrown down the drain in Melkbos]. We met up with Dave & Anne at Victoria Falls to find that Rieta was not yet fit to travel, although nothing was broken, and would follow us later. Also we found that Andrey & Olga were to depart for Cape Town, as an urgent business issue had evolved. We said our sad farewells to them as they left for Beit Bridge, and then set off for Hwange National Park with a depleted group. Schalk & Rieta arrived there around 18.30, after a pretty swift journey, with Rieta’s arm well-strapped. Sinamantella campsite is on a high ridge, with game visible from camp. We spent 2 nights there, with all venturing out on game drives, with plenty of elephant, buffalo, and 1 lion sited. Wednesday 20th was a special day for the group, as we had booked Masuma Dam picnic spot for our exclusive campsite for the night. The outgoing couple had booked a full year in advance for this privilege, and were rewarded with a very large pride of lion being around the day before. Oh well, still no great cat sitings, but really great viewing from the hide. Elephant, hippo, crocs, buffalo, birds, everything except cats! Hyena tipped over the rubbish bins at night, and birds were plentiful, so we truly enjoyed our stay. The final campsite was Robins, selected to bring us closer to the Botswana border for the last leg of our trip. The area there is surprisingly moist, but the campsite had little shade at this time of the year. Other than that we found the facilities much better than some reports stated. It was sad to say goodbye to Schalk & Rieta, who were on the 3 week option, and needed to get back to work. Just as we were departing Lana spotted a pack of Painted Dogs, which was a great send-off before Pandamatenga border, with Hwange National Park later voted by the group as the best venue of the trip. ELEPHANT SANDS + KUBU ISLAND – BOTSWANA: Down to 5 vehicles, our itinerary offered 2 well-known in transit stops on the way to the Central Kalahari. At Elephant Sands we enjoyed a group restaurant meal at the side of the waterhole where elephant were in and out all the time, only 10m away from the open verandah. Apart from the half-built ablutions, it was great. Then next day, our 23rd on the road, the first stop was an early shop at Nata for fuel, groceries and beer. Sounds easy for a Saturday morning, except liquor can only be sold after 10.00am Mutiny! The guys were not leaving for 6 nights in the bush with no beer! Fortunately we found a willing trader, and left on schedule for Kubu Island in Sowa Pan. A dusty and bumpy ride brought us to Kubu almost free of charge, as it was sort of on the way to CKGR anyhow. We had just settled into the community campsite between the rocks and trees, when there was a call-out to assist 2 young guys, Matt & Graham, who had broken all the rules by attempting to drive across Sowa Pan. Their vehicle, with fully-pumped street tyres, had to be shoveled and shoved to extricate it, and the embarrassed chaps rewarded us with cold ales before we went on a recce around the Island. That pan surface is as tricky as mentioned in many reports, with thick damp clay just beneath the dry-looking surface. Back in camp John & Lana`s trailer had lost all its lights, and Hans assisted to provide some temporary illumination. CENTRAL KALAHARI GAME RESERVE – BOTSWANA: We entered the Park at Matswere Gate from Rakops [where we were directed to the butchery to buy tomatoes!] for our 5 night stay, to discover that the advertised sale of firewood at the gate had been discontinued! Proceeding to our first camp at Sunday Pan [2 nights], we found shady sites with very adequate long-drops and bucket showers, but no taps which are shown on Tracks for Africa maps. Hyena were around at night, but all waterholes seemed void of activity during the day. Then our luck changed suddenly a the breakfast run....Mary and I had our first very good lion encounter within 2 km of the camp, which stopped Hans from venturing out of the campsite on foot! That night we all cooked on gas, but could have done with a campfire to light up the shadows. Next day we travelled independently to Passage Valley for 2 nights, which became a highlight of our trip. Most of us had just arrived in camp when a CA BMW arrived to informed us that 2 huge lions were our neighbours, just 300m away under a tree. That was just the start, and we all spent time photographing and wondering where THEY were going to camp. Late that night they raided us, targeting John Fincham, who was in a ground tent, with his ammo boxes always neatly packed out. Much shouting and shameful swearing was heard by the group, as John defended his space, eventually sleeping in his very cold Defender, running the engine at times to keep warm. The roaring went on all night, and the next morning we viewed his chewed dirty washing strewn around, and huge tooth-marks through some ammo boxes. The PVC long-drop seat had been ripped out of its concrete mooring, and Mary needed urgent help to use the Ladies Room. John [F], who was previously known as John Bird, gratefully accepted the offer from John [Z] & Lana to make use of their spare rooftop tent for the next 2 nights. The 2 young male lions were seen moving East, away from us, during the day. The excitement of the previous night was wearing off, as we used our last charcoal for the evening braai. Halfway through cooking we observed 3 lions moving along the road, and when they reached our 100m driveway, they turned up towards us......... Chaos! Get the half-cooked food off the fire....put the uncooked food in the vehicle.......everyone running and shouting....all inside now......John [F] and Hans driving at them, flashing headlights, hooting madly! After the intruders had moved off into the bush, we returned to finish cooking and eating, but were far less relaxed.....looking over shoulder! Everyone was in bed by 20.30, and nobody relieved their bladders that night, as the roaring continued. Next morning we departed for Piper Pans, but not before encountering the lions in the road around Passage. A relatively quiet evening was spent at Piper, and it was our last night in the bush. We departed quite early for Ghanzi, and once again there was a lioness in the road. On the poor road to the Xade gate Hans` Discovery suspension was overheating and not raising, which caused him to plough through the sand. Beyond the gate we met a couple who were having trouble with their ageing Range Rover. Their fanbelts were broken, and Dave & Anne towed them out of the poor road section to meet a tow truck. Our last night was at Thakadu Campsite outside Ghanzi, which features a waterhole, wonderful hot showers, and a good restaurant for our farewell dinner. 2000km to Cape Town for most of us, and home after 32 nights of fun. A great experience! Viv le Sueur
Posted on: Sat, 20 Sep 2014 12:09:49 +0000
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