After being confidently told by two hand specialists and the X-ray guy my finger (a2 pulley) is not ruptured, here I am 5 weeks later in a ring support by day and splint by night. Luckily I pushed for a MRI scan to check or I would be trying to climb by now with my ligament completely detached from the bone! The recovery process is very different for tears and ruptures...if you hear a pop get an ultrasound / MRI asap and take ANY finger and joint pain seriously, dont climb through it, or it will take 10x longer to heal! Recently a few people have told me that they cant climb without finger pain but are desperately trying to push through because they love climbing so much. Pulling hard on crimps is just a part of climbing...if your fingers need a break from crimping STOP pulling! but you dont have to stop climbing all together, just change your style; try climbing slabs and corners just using palming and learn something new about your climbing :-) So, with months of recovery still ahead of me my general conditioning continues and Im getting my climbing fix from trying routes without hands and one handed. I lead my first route the other day just clipping with the injured one...bloody good fun...very technical and balancy!
Posted on: Mon, 13 Oct 2014 12:25:26 +0000
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