GUERLAIN EVENTS 2014 In addition to the annual list of twenty new releases, in 2014 Guerlain has given us several things to talk about. 3/6: MITSOUKO VOTED BEST REFORMULATION Its common for perfume houses to deny reformulations and changes in raw materials. But at Guerlain, Thierry Wasser has put an end to all the charade and often gives interviews about IFRA restrictions and reformulations. Mitsouko was voted best reformulation of the year by Olfactorama. Robertet makes some oakmoss and tree moss without any of the nasty, naturally occurring molecules, Thierry Wasser explained. If you make a fractional distillation and you pull out what the European Commission doesnt want any more, then you create an olfactive hole. So then you have to find a way of tricking the nose into thinking that its smelling real oakmoss. I put in a little lentiscus, which is a bush with a green note. The new oakmoss evaporates very quickly, but old oakmoss was a fixative. So the long-lastingness is a problem too. The trick is to get the same density to achieve the same long-lastingness. There are several solvents which are so heavy that they stay forever, but they dont smell of anything. When you blend your whole à la oakmoss composition, the role of these solvents is to hold your composition down. And so, if you use them, you have your old oakmoss. Thats what happened with Mitsouko, and thats why Mitsouko is now back. You just have to be creative even when youre doing technical things. Read more about Mitsouko below.
Posted on: Sun, 28 Dec 2014 20:30:00 +0000
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