Got held up in the office today and when I finally made it to the beach I was so fired up and ready to “discharge the batteries”! I love that feeling of motivation and when you really believe in it and just go for it. I think on the first 5 waves I got 5 aerials, but then Mother Nature decided I was to be taught a little lesson and gave me a real hard slapping! After landing an aerial (one of the actually pictures) I went straight down with the lip, and got really hammered over the shallow sand bank. The waves are in Middles are by no means Nazare kind of beasts, but they do throw some water on the inside bank. I have gathered my fair share of broken bones and torn ligaments here over the years. It was one of those crashes where you thank the might one that you got away unharmed.. So I’m happy not to be walking with crutches right now and that Ill be ready for another day of taking chances tomorrow! :)
Posted on: Tue, 16 Dec 2014 19:06:25 +0000
Trending Topics
Recently Viewed Topics
© 2015