O3 NOVEMBER 2012 WALKING SAFARI MANGOCHI MOUNTAIN FOREST RESERVE THROUGH LIWONDE NATIONAL PARK By Mick Royle I was to lead a group of men over the Mangochi Mountain Forest Reserve, an extinct volcano, down to the northern sector of Liwonde National Park and through its length to the southern entrance. A distance of 90 kilometers. This was commissioned by SECRET COMPASS to guide the expedition walk in a preparation exercise for their marathon journey to walk the entire length of the Nile, a feat never achieved before. Our route varied over the tough terrain - our time limit was 4 days. The team comprised myself, Lev Wood, Simon Clarke,Tom Evans, who are Secret Compass. Ben Reid, the camera man, Will Charlton, our doctor. We were accompanied by three Malawians. Wadi our scout seconded from National Parks, Karoi seconded from Forestry and Kawinga Omar our ever complacent porter, nicknamed ‘Brenda’! Our rendezvous and the first night of our expedition was generously hosted by Paul Yiannakis on his Tambala Estate in Namwera. Here we plotted the route in detail to ensure we had access to fresh water. November is the height of the dry season. We each were to carry our own backpacks, food and at least a daily supply of 5 litres of water to see us through the scorching heat. DAY 1: After a hearty farm breakfast, we bid our host farewell at 05:30. Our challenge had began in the cool dawn. We entered the Mangochi Forest Reserve, dense woodland of Msuku and Brachestegia and followed the bush trail where bushbuck, duiker, baboon, bush pig and elephant had been browsing and feeding during the early morning hours. Their scent still fresh, we knew we were being watched. The bush trail led up the mountain slopes next to fresh running water. As we learnt throughout our challenge, this was the first of many welcoming streams. The rumblings of elephant talk in the thicket could be heard and we realized that our scent had been picked up. They gave us a warning and we made a hurried detour, climbing over the craggy slopes, setting a comfortable pace for the serious hiking ahead. Once we reached the crest we took a water break and relieved our aching shoulders of heavy packs. Our hard hike was rewarded with an awesome insight into the rugged mountainous terrain we had yet to cross. During our short rest, Simon scarpered into the bush for a quick pee. This was an opportune moment for a prankster to tamper with his backpack and load it further with rocks. We set off once again with a buzz, our enthusiasm high. But it wasn’t long before Simon realized something was amiss and being no pushover he discovered his unwanted load, some jovial cussing followed as we clambered on. It was tough going, scrambling over rocks, staying as much as possible on the bush trails and with each step carefully positioned we made good headway despite the midday sun at its high. Seeking deep shade to rest, whilst Wadi and his men went about preparing their traditional lunch of nsima & relish, the rest of us, still full from breakfast, took the opportunity for a quick doze. Once refreshed and our water supply replenished from the source of the Masanje River, a crystal clear stream, gurgling through a tangle of buttress roots of mahogany and waterberry trees, we pushed on. We followed some of the riverine thicket, ticking off a number of special birds, not commonly seen. African Broad Bill, Narina Trogon and Violet Backed Starling to mention just a few. Coming out of the thicket we were greeted with alarm barks from a troop of baboons, not used to seeing a troop of men trudging through their back garden. The terrain was undulating, as we walked through extensive miombo and brachestygia woodland. With the sun receding, we set up camp along the riverbank of the Masanje and went about gathering firewood and preparing our individual food supplies. The lads had brought their own army ration packs. I made do with “2 minute noodles”, oats, packet soup and the welcomed pot of tea, tainted with the familiar smokey flavour of camp fire boiled water. Resting by the coals, illuminated by the moonlight, we reflected on the day, estimating 18kms of rugged, tough terrain covered. Sleep was welcomed. DAY 2: We awoke to dappled moonlight through the canopy of the trees, silver shadows cast beneath. After breakfast we packed up camp, leaving no trace other than footprints and pressed grass where our tents had laid. Our route was rough underfoot, but evident of elephant usage, showing how dexterous they are when they move through such a rugged trail. The heat started to increase as we began to descend and lose altitude. Coming out of the forest reserve we passed through village and farmland, its inhabitants completely taken by surprise to see such a ragged looking bunch. Not quite Dr. Livingstone I presume! Some of the children had never seen a white man before and took off at great speed, shrieking “AZUNGU”! Others gathered around forming an entourage, singing and joking as they escorted us through avenues of traditional mud huts and fields of dry cultivated land. This was a remote passage way. As the sun beat down mercilessly, we took a break under an old mango tree, the owner of which came out of her hut to greet us. A Chichewa exchange was made: we wished to purchase some mangoes. The old woman arranged for the inquisitive kids to gather three bowls full, for which we paid her and she replied it was too much and apologized for not having change. As she sat silently and watched us make a meal of the juicy fruit, her eyes studying our curious attire, I noticed her weathered and time worn face which expressed an untold but vivid story. I was humbled by her presence. The gracious welcome and generosity she displayed despite her obvious hardships, being in constant competition with wildlife for her crops and more often than not unforgiving harsh elements. As I walked away I felt a renewed inner strength, grateful for our brief interlude. The heat was heavy as it bounced off the ground, hitting us in the face with unrelenting force when we crossed the dry cultivated land. My feet were burning inside my shoes, despite the thick soles and water evaporated through my body quicker than I could replenish, leaving me constantly thirsty. We had to continually fill our water storage wherever we could along the way, an essential part of our well being. By mid afternoon we walked out of cultivated land into Mopane woodland. We had reached the north eastern boundary of Liwonde National Park and were thankful. The protocol of walking in a National Park and the prospect of encountering dangerous game was discussed. Wadi, our armed scout took point, followed by myself and the rest of the team. We passed herds of impala and waterbuck, encountering a few individuals of bushbuck, duiker and warthog. An hour and a half later, we reached the southern end of Lake Malombe and set about setting up camp at the old Mvera traditional crossing point, a place steeped in history. For hundreds of years this historic trade route was where people had crossed, where slave traders walked their bound captives to the coast to be sold to Arab traders and where ivory was a regular trade commodity destined for the Far East. We set up camp near an ancient hollow baobab, which over time had been intertwined with a ficus natalensis and ficus sycamorus. This enormous combination of trees had provided travellers sanctuary for decades, its hollow being large enough to house at least 6 men, protecting them from predators and other elements of nature. Not only was it sanctuary for humans, but wildlife also took advantage of its generous hollow. It is still used today. Before dusk and in dire need for a wash, we waded through the shallows of Lake Malombe for 20 metres to find decent depth to allow us to wallow. As we lay on our backs in silent relief, we were in awe of the magnificent flame red sunset. 40kms covered, it had been a tough day, but it felt good! We proceeded to prepare our own dinner over a smokey campfire. 2 minute noodles have never tasted so delicious! Sleep was imminent as we were serenaded by a bloat of hippos who grunted and chortled into the night. DAY 3: At first light, I made myself comfortable for my early morning ablutions amongst the reeds on the riverbank, admiring the view of the shallow lake before me, interrupted only briefly by a water mongoose scuttling away unimpressed at being disturbed with such an ungainly sight! It was a great start to my 54th birthday! After a rushed breakfast we allowed ourselves the incredible privilege to walk with the dawn chorus in the National Park. This invigorated and fuelled us with energy. The going was slower, rougher underfoot with the uneven ground constant of potholes from elephant and hippo, their footprints baked solid in the scorched soil. The next rains would come and allow new footprints to be formed, to be repeatedly baked dry and so it goes on, a continual natural turning of the soil. We followed the river, passing numerous large herds of impala and waterbuck on the open flood plain, bushbuck and kudu in the thickets, wallowing warthogs and submerged hippo. On route we entered the old Makanga scout campsite and came upon an outcast bull hippo, skulking under a bush, nursing his wounds from battle. This was a potentially dangerous situation. As he got up, his piercing eyes glaring at us, he turned and walked heavily away towards the river. The embankment was lined with monstrous crocodiles, this area well renowned for their formidable size. Living dinasours. Their slit eyes watched our every move as we passed through. At midday we walked into Mvuu Camp, a seemingly odd situation for us to suddenly emerge from the bush onto a well manicured lawn! The lads treated me to a birthday lunch by the pool, where the only poolside attraction was a rather large Dutch woman, and surprisingly the conversation ventured into the behavioral antics of hippopotami. We ordered 8 chicken and chips and 1 chicken and rice, and got 8 chicken and rice and 1 chicken and chips, however it was all good and washed down well with a couple of Carlsberg Greens. After our welcome respite, we continued our trek walking south. Coming out of a thicket, we encountered elephants feeding in the marsh. We had to stick to the higher ground, a safe detour, and pushed on through the mopane woodland, circling back round to the river in the waning sun. Now we were on the confluence of the Namandanje River where we made a suitable campsite under some Acacia Xanthefolia (yellow fever trees). Our excitement for the day was not over – we had to chase the crocodiles off the sandbank so we could stand in their footprints and indulge in a bucket shower. We had covered 16km this day. DAY 4: With the dawn we continued traveling further south, the vegetation opening up into massive flood plain and marsh areas, where we passed extensive herds of water buck and impala, scattered with groups of warthog and reedbuck, and a small bachelor herd of craggy old buffalo bulls. After crossing the Mwalasi Riverbed, we took a break in the shade on the riverbank. As we relaxed, I sensed we were not alone. From the thicket behind us a family of elephants walked silently towards us. We were in between them and the Shire River. We had no option but to slowly back up onto higher ground. Wadi made muffled clapping sounds to introduce us gently and warn of our presence. Startled, they stopped and scented the air, their ears spread. They proceeded to retreat back into the trees where they waited until we were out of sight and smell. Once assured, they continued on their path to water. Continually sticking to higher ground to allow our walk quicker underfoot, we passed a big herd of 300 plus buffalo in the distance, which once we were well past them, scented us and stampeded into the thicket for safety. By now it was mid morning and hellishly hot. During the walk we came across waterholes that were drying into small pools, which left the black cotton soil surrounding them death traps. Invariably, animals who ventured towards the stagnant pools in eagerness to drink water before they reached the river, suffered a slow and terrible death. Sadly four warthogs hadn’t made it. Crossing one of the many gullies, Wadi spotted a young female reedbuck caught in the mud, but still alive. With Karoi and Brenda, he reached in and wrestled the weary antelope freeing it from quagmire and death. Shocked and weakened by her ordeal, we wiped off some of the mud and gently poured water down her parched throat to which she swallowed eagerly. We carried her to a safe distance from the death trap and watched her rest in the shade. Before we moved on, we were relieved to see she had gained strength to stand and walk away. By now, the scorching midday heat called for sanctuary under a large Kigelia Africana, commonly known as the sausage tree, where we rested leaning against a large termite mound and where a stand of Hypheni Palms or Vegetable Ivory revealed a vista of the river. Continuing on higher ground to avoid rough terrain, following the mopane tree line we walked into another herd of elephant, as they headed for the river. Wadi attempted his muffled clapping to try to move them, but they were so parched and determined to keep going and would not give ground. There were a number of very young calves in this breeding herd, instinctively forming a defensive circle around them, with the matriarch facing us, displaying aggressive posture. To avoid confrontation we detoured through the mopane thicket, and the elephants continued on their determined route. We moved on, our senses alert and adrenalin pumping, then suddenly walked into a small herd of buffalo bulls escaping the midday heat. We froze. Wadi cocked his rifle, we were too close. They stood, staring. Suddenly and fortunately for us, they turned and thundered off into the thicket, which was followed by a huge sigh of relief by all! We continued across the shimmering plain of Chinguni Hills, encountering kudu, sable, waterbuck, impala, bushbuck and warthog, with a troop of baboons spying us from the tree line. As daylight prevailed, we set up camp at the foot of the hills and walked to Bushmans Baobabs for a late afternoon meal. We feasted! Heading back to camp before dark, Will had expressed interest in seeing a snake, and with not seeing any en route thus far, I obliged and found a Mozambique spitting cobra. He was thrilled! Day 5 Dawn broke and our journey was coming to an end. Wadi and Karoi surprised everyone by pulling out of their packs crisply starched and ironed uniforms that up to now were unseen, plus a tin of polish to shine their boots! We ventured up to the Park Warden’s office to thank him for his co-operation. We looked unshaven and scruffy, whilst Wadi and Karoi stood clean and proud, buttons, badges and boots shining! Taking a slow walk to the Park entrance gate, our journey was complete. It was an unforgettable, moving experience. To be repeated. Mick Royle Follow Lev and Simon on their epic adventure SECRET COMPASS Walking The Nile walkthenile Some of the footage in the promotional film above is from the November 2012 expedition.
Posted on: Thu, 18 Jul 2013 20:18:26 +0000
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