Organic Gardening Tips and Methods Ornamental Trees (Part 6 Section 2) Soil Preparation and Planting Transportation Shock; Many trees falter and die of stress and desiccation as a result of being transported on a roof-rack, stuck through an opening in the car roof (sun-roof), or exposed on an open truck, where they may be buffered in the slipstream. Trees may also experience a set-back in their growth rate because their environment has suddenly changed from one of a protected, close planting in their nursery to isolation and exposure to strong winds, hot sun, or hard frosts within the garden. When to Plant; It is best to plant trees as soon as possible after purchase, although container-grown and root-balled trees may be stored in frost-free conditions for a few weeks, if kept moist, container-grown trees may be planted out t any time of year, except in drought, very wet conditions, or frost. Deciduous bare-rooted trees should be planted between; mid-autumn and mid-spring (avoiding periods of frost and extreme damp). Plant hardy-evergreens and hardy-deciduous trees with fleshy-roots in mid-autumn or mid to late-spring, Root-balled trees are best planted in early to mid-autumn or mid to late-spring, Deciduous trees may be planted out in winter in mild conditions. Autumn planting allows the tree roots to become established before winter sets in this helps the tree withstand hot, dry spells the following summer. I cold regions, planting in spring may allow the tree to establish more successfully, if planting in winter, the ground may be lifted by subsequent spells of frost; if so the soil should be re firmed once it has thawed. Soil Preparation; Preparing the site in advance allows the soil to settle and minimizes delay between buying and planting a tree, choose a well-drained site; one that is poorly drained may need to be improved before planting. Remove turf and other plant growth in an area three or four times (3-4x) the trees root ball to eliminate competition for nutrients and water in the soil, then dig the soil through whilst incorporating organic matter in the uppermost part. Most trees require a soil depth of 50cm-1m (20in-3ft) to grow-well some may grow on soils only 15cm (6in) deep, although, they are less-stable and less drought-tolerant. Planting Trees; Once the site has been prepared, dig the planting hole, between two (2) and four (4) times the width of the res root-ball, depending on whether the tree is container-grown, bare-root, or root-balled, if doing this in advance, backfill it loosely until ready to plant the tree so that the soil remains warm. Mix the removed soil with well-rotted organic-matter and if planting in spring, add about 110g (4oz) of slow release fertilizer (ie; a dry mix of fish, blood, and bone meal), fork over the sides and base of the hole to break up the surrounding soil and allow the tree roots to grow/spread into it more easily; this is particularly important in heavy, sticky soils. If you are using a single stake, drive it into the hole just off-centre before planting the tree to ensure that the root-ball is not damaged later. Container-Grown Trees*; Thoroughly moisten the compost if it is very-dry, stand the container in water for a period of time (for about half-hour or so) until the compost is moist throughout. Then remove the container, cutting it away if necessary. Gently tease the roots to encourage the roots into the surrounding soil; this is essential with a pot-bound plant. Trees with a full, but not pot-bound root system could, alternatively, have the outer surface scored with a garden-knife, by making two to four (2-4) shallow vertical cuts from below on the root-ball before planting; trim away any broken or damaged roots with secateurs. It is important to check the planting depth is correct; if a tree is planted too deeply, its roots may not receive enough oxygen and may-slow-down in growth or even die; if planted too shallowly, the roots may dry-out. Place the tree in the hole and locate the soil mark (a dark mark near the base of the stem indicating the soil level when the tree was growing in the nursery). Place a cane across- the hole alongside the stem and add or remove soil if necessary so that the soil mark on the stem is level with the cane. On free-draining soil, a section of 10cm (4in) diameter- perforated plastic drainage pipe can be inserted into the planting hole, the top 2-4ins should be just above ground level, while the lower-end should rest among the roots, during subsequent (continuous) hot weather water can be poured down this pipe directly to the roots. Backfill the hole, firming the soil in stages to remove any air-pockets; take care not to firm too heavily on clay-soils, a shallow moat around the tree helps to channel the water to the roots. Conversely, on clay-soils, a slight mound around the stem drains water away from the root-ball. Lightly prune the top-growth to balance it out with the root-system, then secure the tree to the stake with one or more ties, water thoroughly and then apply mulch. Bare-Root Trees*; Prepare the site as in the same way/manner as for container-grown trees, ensuring that the planting hole is wide enough for the trees roots to spread-out fully; trim back any damaged roots to healthy growth, if using a single-stake, drive it in just off-centre of the planting hole and spread the trees roots around it, adjust the planting depth if necessary, then partly backfill the hole and gently shake the stem to settle the soil and roots together, firm the backfilled soil in stages, taking care not to damage the roots, finally, water the tree well, then mulch the area around it. Root-Balled Trees*; The method of planting root-balled trees is very similar o that used for container-grown trees. The planting hole should be twice (2x) the width of the root-ball, however (or), in heavy clay-soils, three times (3x) the width, place the tree in the hole at the correct depth, then remove the hessian or netting surrounding the root-ball, if using an angled-stake or two stakes one on either side of the root-ball, drive them in; they should rest firmly against the root-ball without piercing it. In heavy, clay-soils, it is possible to improve drainage by planting so that the top of the root-ball is slightly above soil-level and covering the exposed part with 5-7cm (2-3in) of friable soil, leaving a gap of 2.5-5cm (1-2in) around the stem, water thoroughly and then add a nice layer of top mulch. Staking; As root systems of newly planted trees need one or more growing seasons to anchor firmly in the soil, staking against strong winds may be necessary, drive the stake in about 60cm/24in (2ft) below soil level so that it is completely stable, after two or three (2-3) years, the tree should be sufficiently established for the stake to be removed. The method of support chosen depends on the tree, the proposed planting site and personal preference. Traditionally, a high, vertical stake has been used, placed on the side of the prevailing wind and long enough to reach just below the crown, a low-stake is now generally preferred, as it allows the tree to move naturally into the wind. With flexible-stemmed such as Crab-apple (Malus), use a stake in the first year after planting, cut it (the stake) down to the lower-level in the second year and remove the stake in the third year. For container-grown and root-balled trees, a low-stake angled into the prevailing wind is preferable, as it can be driven in clear of the root-ball, even after the tree has been planted, alternatively, space two or three (2-3) vertical, low-stakes evenly around the tree outside the root-ball. In windy sites or for trees more than 4m (12ft) in height, insert to vertical stakes when planting, one on either side of the root-ball to provide support. Large-trees are often secured by guy-ropes attached to low-stakes, covering the guy-ropes with hose-pipe or white tape making them more visible and so helps the risk of people tripping over them. Tree-Ties; Ties must be secure, long-lasting and able to accommodate the tees girth as it grows without cutting into the bark. Proprietary ties are available, or you can make the from nylon webbing (ie; stockings/tights) or rubber tubing (ie; bicycle-wheel inner-tube), prevent stakes chafing bark using spacers, or a form of padded tie into a figure of eight and nail it to the stake. When using two or three stakes, secure the tree with heavy-duty rubber or plastic strips, if supporting a large-tree with guys; use multi-strand wire or nylon rope. Buckle and spacer ties; thread the tie through the spacer, around the tree, and back through the spacer, buckle it so that it is taut but will not damage the bark. Rubber-tie; if using a rubber tie or plastic tie with-out a buckle, and nail it to the stake to prevent bark damage caused by friction. Aftercare; For the first two or/to three years (2-3yrs) after planting, it is important to provide trees with plenty of water, particularly in dry-spells, failure to do this may impede establishment or the tree may even die, keep the surrounding area clear of grass and weeds, and, feed and mulch regularly. Some trees need extra protection from frost and wind; Evergreens in an exposed site should e protected, initially from drying winds with wind-breaks. Protecting the Stem; In many regions, it is necessary to protect young trees from damage caused by rabbits or other animals that strip bark, either with a barrier of chicken-wire or wire-netting secured in place with several canes or stakes, or place a proprietary tree-guard around the tree trunk, there are many types of tree-guard available from garden centres or nurseries including spiral-wrap-around guards of flexible plastic, as well as those made from heavy-duty plastic or wire mesh. Degradable, plastic-net tree guards are also available in a range of heights from 60cm (2ft) up-to 2m (6ft) In exposed sites, such as on hill-sides, tree shelters may be used to assist young transplants and whips to become well established; these degradable plastic structures are up-to 1.2m (4ft) long and between 8cm (3in) and 15cm (6in) across. Note; All information given coincides with the guide lines of the Royal Horticultural Society (RHS)........
Posted on: Sat, 02 Nov 2013 16:07:32 +0000
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