Organic Gardening Tips and Methods Ornamental Trees (Section - TopicsExpress



          

Organic Gardening Tips and Methods Ornamental Trees (Section One) More than any other plants, trees create a sense of permanence and maturity in a garden; they add height, structure and natural sculptural focal point while their large and distinctive silhouettes form an attractive contrast with the softer lines of other planting. There is an enormous variety of trees differing in shape and form as well as in the colour and texture of foliage, flowers and bark; each has a particular appeal from the pointed column of a cypress to the blazing autumn colour of a Japanese maple or the patterned trunk of a Eucalyptus. Trees may be grown in many ways; an-informal woodland of hazels and birches surrounded by bulbs has naturalistic charm, while an avenue of copper beeches is suitable (if not elegant) in a formal setting; Some trees such as; Magnolias are best sited on their own as specimen features. Trees for the Garden Ornamental trees are grown for the beauty of their flowers, bark or decorative fruits, rather than for edible or timber crops, many fruit trees, however, are graced by beautiful flowers and few ornamental trees such as Crab apples (Malus), bear rich crops of fruits for preserving. The distinction between trees and shrubs is similarly blurred, the former usually, but not always, is with/has one single trunk and the latter, for example; Lilacs (Syringa), is multi-stemmed, although sometimes reaching tree-like proportions. Choosing Trees Trees are generally the largest and longest-lived garden plants and selecting and siting them can be major design decisions, the fewer trees a garden can accommodate the more important careful choice and siting become; in a one-tree garden these points are crucial to the success f the design, the general appearance and special features of a tree obviously matters, but its suitability for a gardens soil, climate, and aspect and its ultimate height, spread, and growth rate, are equally important. Once a tree has been/is chosen, the design process continues by deciding where to pant it. Garden centres stock a limited range of the most popular ornamental trees, specialist nurseries, some with a mail order service offer a wider choice, Heights range from about 1m (3ft) for some dwarf conifers to the massive 90m (300ft) of a redwood (Sequoia), growth rates vary from 2.5cm (1in) or less per/a year for dwarf conifers to 1m (3ft) r more for some Poplars (populus), a young tree in a garden centre gives little or no indication of its potential size and some species, particularly conifers include both; miniature and very large cultivars; Select cultivars with care and if offered, substitutes, make sure that they will be equally appropriate for your needs. Trees as Design Elements Trees create a strong visual impact in the same way as do hard landscaping features, they also help to form the permanent framework of a garden around which the more temporary elements come and go, trees may be used as living sculptures, a simple, contrasting setting is most likely to enhance a tree used in this way, a tree with pale or variegated foliage looks very good/striking against a hedge of dark green yew (Taxus baccata), for example, while the bold winter tracery of bare branches stand out well in front of a white-painted wall, used structurally, trees can also define or enclose space, a stately row or an informal clump of trees can mark the boundary of a property, separate one part of the garden from another, or emphasize a path, a pair of trees might act as a verdant frame for a distant view or form an attractive living arch through which the garden is entered. Shape and Form The shape and form of a tree are as important as its size in setting the mood and style as well as in practical considerations of space, some trees such as many ornamental cherries (Prunus), are small and charmingly pretty, while others, such as Cedars (cedrus) are grand and monumental, most can be formal or informal, according to the settings and treatment, Rhus typhina has a striking architectural form which is ideal for a modern garden, while arching fronds of many palms bring lushness to a courtyard or conservatory. Rowans (Sorbus aucuparia) and Hollies (Ilex) are typical English Cottage Garden trees, Japanese maple (Acer palmatum) and the large Salix var; Babylonica Pekinensis “Tortuosa” are suitable for ornamental gardens, native species are ideal for wild gardens, narrow, upright trees such as Malus ischonoskii are suitable for small gardens but have a formal, almost artificial appearance, round-headed or wide-spreading trees seem more informal but cast much more shade and rain shadow, making under-planting difficult while those with an irregular, open-branch framework have a naturalistic appeal, cone or pyramid-shaped tree have a sculptural effect, while weeping trees have a softer silhouette. Consider how long the tree takes to develop its characteristic shape, in some cases; it may/can be decades, Prunus “kanzan” for example, has a stiff growth habit when young, with awkwardly angled branches, yet after ten years or so the branches begin to arch, and by thirty years the tree has a nice-graceful rounded crown. Where space allows, combining contrasting tree shapes can create a grand affect, but planting many differently shaped trees may simply appear fussy and uncoordinated. Specimen Trees A specimen tree is grown on its own to develop and display its full natural beauty without competition from other trees, depending on the climate, Chinese dogwood (Cornus kousa var, chinesis), Weeping Willow (Salix x sepulcralis var, Chrysocoma), various Ornamental Cherries (Prunus) and Palms such as Howea and Phoenix are popular specimen trees. A specimen tree can be effective as a focal point in all scales of surroundings, although you should select a tree that is the right size for its setting, tiny specimen trees look lost in vast gardens and outsized ones are over bearing in confined spaces, specimen trees particularly in formal gardens are traditionally placed in the centre of the lawn, sitting a specimen tree to one side, however, can add a sense of liveliness and informality to a scheme as well as allowing a view down the garden. Other options include planting a specimen tree next to a gate or garden entrance, or at the bottom or top of a flight of steps to mark the transition from one space in the garden to another. Planting in a swathe of gravel or ground-cover plants such as Ivy (Hedera) or Periwinkle (Vinca), provides complementary foil/foliage for a specimen tree, in a mixed border, use a tree as the keystone around which to build the colour and form of the surrounding groups of plants, a specimen tree may be reflected in a garden pond of off-set by a statue or a white-painted bench beneath it, so that each element enhances the other. Grouping Trees If space allows, consider planting three or more trees together in informal clumps of the same or different species, a group of trees also create a more substantial, certain-like frame than a single tree for one or both sides of a view, clumps of large trees such as Oaks (Quercus) or Beeches (Fagus), make focal points on a grand/larger scale, as exemplified in the landscapes of the great 18th Century English Landscape Gardener; Capability Brown. In warmer climates, stands of tall, bare-trunked palms can be equally impressive on their own in grass or inter-planted with lower-growing or multi-stemmed species. On a smaller scale, a modest group of deciduous trees with light foliage, such as; Birches (Betula pendula) or Maples (Acer), can form the backbone of a miniature woodland, the dappled-shade and leafy-soil are perfect for Daffodils, Bluebells (Hyacinthoides non-scripta) and Primrose (Primua vulgris). Trees in informal groups can be planted closer than the combined potential spread of their crowns, relatively tall-narrow, or asymmetrical growth may result, but the effect can be pleasantly informal, with inter-mingled branches forming an attractive tracery against the sky. Features of Interest Although trees are most often valued for their architectural qualities, they also provide interest through particular features such as flowers, foliage, berries, and bark, site a tree so that its attractive characteristics are shown off to the full advantage. Leaves For sheer mass and duration of display, leaves are by far the most important feature, their shape, size and colour offer variation, from the delicate, golden, ferny foliage of Gleditsia triacanthos ‘Sunburst’ to the huge, architectural leaves of palms such as; Phoenix, surface texture affects how light is reflected with glossy leaves adding a bright touch. The density of the canopy ranges from opaque to airy, an important factor of considering under-planting around a tree, tree with coloured or variegated foliage, such as the reddish-purple of Prunus virginiana ‘Schubert’ or the yellow-edged leaves of Liqustrum lucidum ‘Excelsum superbum’, provide a mass of colour that contrasts well with green-leaved trees, some leaves, such as those of Eucalyptus are pleasantly aromatic, while others, such as those of aspen, quiver in the slightest breeze adding the extra pleasure of sound. Flowers Flowers have a fleeting but memorable presence and a range from modest to opulent, autumn, winter and early spring flowers are especially valuable when there may be less interest from other plants. Flower colour should complement the larger scheme; pale-flowers stand out against dark leaves, while dark flowers show up best in a pale setting, by training climbers such as clematis or roses up mature trees, you can extend the floral display, fragrance is a bonus, ranging from the subtle, winter perfume of Acacia dealbata to the heady summer scent of the Japanese Magnolia (Magnolia obovta) and Frangipani (Plumeria rubra f. acutifolia) for flowers and fragrance, a sheltered situation is best. Fruits, Berries and Pods These can rival or exceed flowers in beauty, ranging from the bright-red, strawberry-like fruits of Arbutus and yellow crab-apples of Malus ‘Golden hornet’ to the sculptural seed pods of Magnolias, in warm climates, trees like Lemons and Figs may be laden with eye-catching fruits, certain trees, such as Hollies (Ilex), need cross pollination to fruit, others fruit only when mature or when particular climate conditions are met, bids find some ornamental berries such as those of Rowan (Sorbus aucuparia) tempting and may strip them down when barely ripe, but you can choose trees with less appealing berries, other fruiting trees such as; Crataegus x lavallii ‘Carrierei’, ripen late and therefore their fruits persist well into spring. (Ask garden centre staff for advice). Bark and Branches Bark can provide colour and textural interest, especially in winter, options include the Mahogany-red, silky sheen of Prunus serrula, ghostly-white bark of Betula utilis var, jaquemontii, and the exotic-looking Eucalyptus pauciflora subsp’ niphophila with its python-like green-grey and creamy-white bark. The Scarlet Willow (Salix Alba var, vitellina ‘Britzensis’) bears scarlet-orange young branches, brilliant when lit from behind, and the garden willow (S. alba var, vitellina) has rich yellow shoots, these fast-growing trees are best pruned regularly to produce new shoots as these have the strongest colour, some trees bear showy bark only when mature, others colour well when young. (Note; All information coincides with the Royal Horticultural Society Guidelines.)
Posted on: Thu, 20 Mar 2014 21:44:49 +0000

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