The next morning I woke from my slumber, the sun was shining although occasionally partially blocked by light fluffy clouds as they passed overhead. Checking the replacement kit from power traveller I realised that theyd not only sent a replacement lead and second panel but theyd also sent a special splitter cable that allowed me to double up the panels for a more effective charge, especially handy in cloudy weather. While having my porridge and strawberry breakfast and packing up camp I decided to try it all out. Sure as day time us light and night time was dark the panels connected and began recharging the battery unit. This was truly a magnificent product that Im sure would prove itself later on especially during the winter months ahead. After packing my gear away I looked along the beach, I could see a blanket of clouds forming way off in the distance. I really hoped it wouldnt rain especially considering Id now managed to dry my boots and socks. Setting off along the beach I kept an eye firmly on the weather, looking for changes such as wind speed and monitoring for rainbows. So what was the significance of a rainbow. Its simple the wind was blowing the clouds towards me which meant that if i saw a rainbow ahead then rain would surely follow. It may only be a light shower but if the horizon looked hazy or misty it would mean a heavy downpour. I made my way onto the firm shores if the beach inches from the small, calm waves lapping the white sands. Passing an unusual improvised beach sculpture of washed up gloves attached to twisted rust covered wire and metal forming what can only be described as a glove tree I chuckled and for no apparent reason shouted thats handy!. With no one around to respond I felt kind of odd and pretending it hadnt happened and to convince myself I wasnt going mad I began to hum. On reflection Im not sure how that helped but thinking back I cant help myself from chuckling. Further along the beach I came across a small but at the same time significantly large enough river flowing from behind the dunes and out to sea. Further along the beach on the other side I could see an obstruction that caused me to reconsider my usual options of walk round or pack raft. It was an enormous pipeline. I had been made aware of the pipeline during my visit to the lifeboat station, heading for norway this 7km pipe was being constructed on land and shipped from the Scottish shores. There was going to be no feasible way to go round or over the pipe other than to head inland to the A99 road that lead to John ogroats. Without spending too much yime assessing the situation I followed the river back to a the wick golf course, big dark clouds forming over the hills and heading towards me. After crossing the golf course I then had the task of climbing fences and stone walls to get back to the road and head for the bridge that would take me over not only the river but also the pipeline. Just as I reached the bridge I felt the temperature drop suddenly, the wind picked up and my hands went numb. Then from nowhere I began getting pelted by small hail stones. It only took seconds before I was soaked to the skin and without enough time to put my waterproof trousers on I decided to just keep walking. The short down pour soon passed but for the next few miles it kept returning and every time I thought it had passed and Id began to dry out it came back to give me another soaking. Arriving at Keiss I decided to nip into the local pub for an orange juice and lemonade and duck out of the rain to let it pass. Thankfully the sun finally broke through and the clouds began to disperse so I seized the opportunity to make a dash to try and get to duncansby head, the most north easterly point of Scotland. I crossed the road and headed for the harbour. Once download at the harbour I had no choice but to turn left and make my way along the cliffs, into a field to an old ruined castle. As I approached it I wondered if Id be able to get a closer look. The answer was quite simply, no. A barricade and huge boulder with the words danger do not enter cut into it stopped me in my tracks. Glancing in through the side I could see that over the years the stone walls had become unstable so I decided to take the advice of the giant boulder and kept the safe side of the huge barricade. I then continued across the field to a high, double strung barbed wire fence, behind it was a rather old dry stone wall. The combination did not look safe at all and for an instant I could see myself impaled on the barbed wire covered in loose stones cut to shreds. Maybe in this case I would walk round. I followed the fence to a precarious looking gate and carefully climbed over. Health and safety would love this, they could spend a couple of days here filling out forms and completing risk assessments, I thought. Now out of the danger zone I followed the road a short way to fesswick. The road to the village running right alongside the clifftop and down towards the coast, as I hiked I began to notice a pain in my left ankle, somehow Id managed to twist or sprain it. It was only a short nagging pain so I ignored it and hoped it wouldnt get any worse. My plan now was now to leave civilisation and head into the baron landscape between there and duncansby head. At the very end of the road was a farm house that backed onto the heather and grassy hills. The wind was picking up once again and rain spitting slightly. I was now entering into unknown territory, I wasnt sure how far I would be able to get and looking at the satellite images the landscape looked fairly rocky and dangerous. Not feeling overly confident I knocked on the door of the farmhouse but there was no reply. I walked back to the road to see if I could find someone, luckily a man in a silver car happened to be driving towards me so I waved my arms and flagged him down. Asking the question whether he knew if it was possible to get over to duncansby head he shook his head and said. I think you can get over but added the winds picking up, itll be wet and slippery I wouldnt, it looks like an easy walk over there but it really isnt. Thanking the man I stepped back on my heel and turned around to take another look. I must admit it did look bleak and boggy in places and the strong winds could probably push me over the side, casting my mind back to badbea I imagined the clifftop would be very similar and if they had to tie the animals and their children to stakes what could I expect once I made it passed the brow of the first hill. Having doubts about the safety of the proposed hike, especially doing it alone, I decided that if the weather was perfect Id give it a go, but the weather was far from perfect, in fact it was damn right horrendous. I made a quick risk assessment as I would when crossing in hoolley and decided that in this instance it was just too risky to attempt. My options were to either wait for good weather, and that could be days, or backtrack along the road to the A99 follow it along to the outskirts of john ogroats and take the road away from the village out to the head. On the other side it might then be possible to cut across the land to rejoin the coast a couple of miles. Sure it was a much longer route and sure I would miss out maybe a mile of the coastline but it would at least be safer. Reluctantly I headed back along the road to rejoin the A99 to john ogroats. As it wound its way through the hills I wondered how much further I would have to walk. It wasnt as if it was going in a straight line or along level ground. After a couple of miles i passed a sign at a junction it indicated that john ogroats was a mere three more miles, ironically almost the dame distance now that I would have haf to hiked if Id gone the more direct clifftop path. It was cold, and constantly threatening to rain so I put my head down and determined to get somewhere close to duncansby head that night marched on. About two miles later I started to see signs of civilisation, one suggesting a B and B at a bargain price of £25 per night. It was tempting so I put it out of my mind. From the top if the hill the horizon had clear skies and the sun shobe down over the Orkney Islands, it was quite a view and my first glance of the top of great Britain. Ahead of me now a welcoming building the john ogroats guesthouse another temptation. As I got closer to the guest house I passed a sign welcome to john ogroats the end of the road. Yeah right! I thought, for others maybe! Walking passed the sign I contemplated stopping to take an ironic photo but decided that the irony would probably be overlooked by most of those following the trek and mis understood by the rest thinking Id completed the challenge. This challenge was after all like a good story, it had a beginning, a middle and an end. This was still only the beginning of the trek, the Middle was yet to come as I passed through the remote areas of the north and west coasts of Scotland and the end of the story starting in wales and finishing back at Southampton with a sparkler extravaganza organised by sally and mike with joanne standing there, her arms crossed with a big cheeky smile happy in the fact shed managed to make sure I got round alive wondering when I was going to repay her for the outstanding postage fees and sharon alongside with a handful of friends and followers clapping as I walked up the bridge almost getting knocked over by the local bus. The guesthouse was now close and as I went to pass it a woman in an apron came out followed by her husband, walking over to the road side they began clapping. Well done they cried. Im not finished yet I replied smiling back. its only a mile the husband said. With a little chuckle I replied four thousand eight hundred and one miles for me. With a little confusion creeping across their faces I explained that I wasnt stopping in john ogroats but that I was continuing on across the Northern coast and then heading back down the west coast home to Southampton. Mark and mary owned the lovely john ogroats guesthouse that looked so inviting as Id been walking along the road towards the village. Mary had been clutching a small bottle of water to give a wiery traveller as he passed but hearing the extent of this particular travellers travel plans mark asked if maybe Id prefer a beer. Although it was tempting I turned to mary and said I dont suppose youve got coffee?. Leading the way I was welcomed into the guest house and told to take a seat while mary introduced me to the other guests sat in the dining room ready for their evening meal. It was lovely taking the weight off my feet and chatting to everyone, reeling off short story after short story, answering questions and explaining the rules of the challenge. Mary then prepared a shower with towels, shampoo and soap for me. Returning to the dining room feeling refreshed and looking more presentable, my beard removed and wearing clean underwear, I sat back down and was offered a bowl of soup, a plate of cottage pie followed by the most delicious homemade sticky toffee pudding and ice cream all washed down with a cool bottle of beer. The atmosphere was absolutely lovely and particularly homely. It was now dark outside and although any sane person would have instantly checked in I had to leave and seek out less luxurious accommodation somewhere along the road and nearer to duncansby head. I put my pack on and we all grouped together for a couple of photos and I set off into the night, head torch lighting the way as I hiked along. Reaching the junction towards the head I turned and began searching fir somewhere slightly sheltered and out of the wind. Finding a tree was quite simply out of the question as there are no trees in john ogroats so a small building or wall would be the best I would be able to manage. Id walked about another half a mile when I spotted the local football field and childrens play park, a small building situated on the edge of the field in front of the play area serving as a good wind break. It was better than I could have hoped for so I set up camp next to the childrens play park and settled in for the night.
Posted on: Sun, 24 Aug 2014 20:32:09 +0000
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