Adire. by S. Wenger and H. U. Beier. Nigeria Magazine. 1957 Pattern dyeing in Indigo is a technique known to several West African tribes, notably the Sarankole of French Guinea, the Tiv of Benue region and the Yoruba of Western Nigeria. Two entirely different techniques of pattern dyeing are practised by Yoruba women. The first method consists of sewing or tying the cloth together in certain places before dyeing. In this way patches of cloth will remain untouched by the indigo vat and will appear as a white pattern on the dark blue cloth. This is the original method as the Yoruba name batik indicates. Adire means literally: to take, to tie and dye. The second method, which is called adire eleko is not older than 1910. It seems that it was first practiced in Lagos and Abeokuta . This method consists of painting a pattern in starch cloth. The starch acts as a resist to the dye, and if after dyeing the cloth is washed, the pattern again appears in white on an almost black background. The starch used for painting these patterns is cassava flour and it can be obtained in the market under the name of lafun. The lafun must be boiled together with alum to make a thick pudding. If no alum were added, the starch would dissolve in the indigo vat. The boiled starch is now called Eko and will be wrapped in Ketemfe leaves. In this way it will keep fresh for a couple of weeks, provided that the leaves are occasionally renewed. Before applying the eko to it the cloth must not be washed. The design is always drawn on the starchy side. To paint the pattern on cloth, a stencil may be used. Zinc or lead sheets are normally used. One of the most famous stencil pattern is the coronation adire, of which there are many versions. The drawing of the design is a far more laborious process when no stencil is used. The result, however, can be more alive and more attractive. Usually a woman employs a number of children who help her in drawing the design. They are trained in this way to become aladire. Each adire eleko has a special name, and each design on it also has a name. It is interesting to discover, that what seems to the strangers eye to be an abstract pattern, is really a representative drawing . Two of the most attractive adire are eiyepe and ibadandun. Eiyepe means All birds are here . The various patterns on this cloth are called as follows: Top line : Oni....Crocodile Second line: Tadi reke.... A dance in which the dancer bends down low Third line: Alangba....Lizard Fourth line: Oga .....Chameleon Fifth Line: Eiye Alapa... Bird with wings Sixth line : Eiye rubutu.....A stout bird Bottom Line: Oni.....Crocodile Ibadandun, which can be roughly translated as we enjoy Ibadan is an even more complex adire. Each line has got four distinct patterns, which are then repeated again on the second half of the cloth. Here are the names of the pattern: Top line, left to right: Pele oyo ... A certain facial mark common in parts of Oyo Sokoto.. Yoruba trousers Eiye.. Bird Ma fowo jepa .... Do not spend money on eating ground nuts The four patterns are then repeated on the right half of the cloth. Second line, left to right: Eiye alapa... A bird with wings Gilasi......the Yoruba version of the English word glass Aburanda ...the Yoruba version of the English word Umbrella Oke mapo..... Mapo hill The four patterns are then side of the cloth Third line, left to right: Oke mapo... Mapo hill Waka...a Mohammedan writing tablet Opon iro...... Writing slate Waya......Yoruba version of the English word wire Fourth line, left to right: Ogede .... Plantain Eiye ogongo ....Ostrich Ejo ...... Snake Igi ..... Tree Fifth line,left to right: Opon iro..... Writing slate Ibo......name given to certain types of embroidery found on mens gowns Eiye abuke .... Hunchback bird Shenge .... Another type of Adire Sixth line, left to right. Oke mapo..... Mapo hill Aburanda ......Umbrella Apamowo .....Handbag Ogede were .....Small banana Bottom line, left to right Apamowo.... Handbag Sokoto ....Yoruba trousers Eiye ogongo ....... Ostrich Waya .....Wire. All patterns are repeated
Posted on: Wed, 26 Mar 2014 14:30:42 +0000
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