Curry in a castle One of Dhobi Talao’s oldest eateries serves simple Goan fare at simpler prices Jharna.Thakkar @timesgroup TWEETS @_jmmirror Disclaimer: To all our friends from Goa. We’re sincerely sorry. We’ve clearly learnt nothing from your teachings, and today by printing this story, we’ve broken your cardinal rule: if it’s good (read tasty and cheap), then keep it a secret. JRR Tolkien rather eloquently wrote, “Much that once was, is lost, for none now live who remember it.” Deepak D’souza, thirdgeneration owner of Dhobi Talao’s blink-and-miss Goan eatery Hotel Castle, could do with taking a page out of that book. This genial gent’s conundrum is simple. Neither he, nor anyone in his family, can quite remember which year in the 1930s his grandfather Monthu D’souza first rolled up Castle’s shutters. If you are a fan of the fare from the sunshine state, we’re certain the first destinations to enter your mind when we say ‘Goan’ are Colaba’s New Martin Hotel or Gable. But, we at Mirror, would actually like you to consider another — unassuming — option that started before all of the above. Deepak’s mother and the only Mangalorean in the mix, Lorna jumps in with, “All my husband’s brothers and sisters have carried out deliveries, served, cooked and managed this establishment at some point in the last 80 years.” She is referring to her late husband Urban, and his siblings Adrian and Mervin. Castle’s location may have a little something to with its well concealed identity. If you walk on a non-existent footpath outside Kyani & Co., the first little lane you’ll hit on the right is called Jambul Wadi (perhaps after a jamun tree that once graced it). Historically, the area is colloquially called mini-Goa and pre-dates Malad’s Orlem community. The curious concentration, many may already know, began over a century At: Behram Mahal, Jambul Wadi, Dhobi Talao. From 12 pm to 3.30 pm, 7.30 pm to 10.30 pm. Call: 22053502 ago with the construction of Jer Mahal (110 years ago), which historians say acted as the entry and exit base for all Goans who worked abroad or wanted to move to Bombay for a job. “The floors of Jer Mahal, and those of adjacent buildings, were crammed with countless Goan clubs, and we’d hear that there was a boarding house exclusively for every Goan village,” says Blanch D’souza, Deepak’s aunt, who is usually the face you’ll see behind the cash counter. In a day where cookie-cutter eateries open and shut faster than mushrooms can grow, Castle is the sort of place where diners and the founding family know each other on a firstname basis. The spartan staff gets a regular’s ‘regular’ order ready even as he steps into the eatery. On the Friday afternoon we drop in, Zyros Zend, who owns Peekay Wines and Yezdani Bakery — two iconic establishments a short drive away — sits on his usual single bench polishing off fish fry (Rs 30 to Rs 35), bhendi (Rs 30), curry and rice. Castle’s curry is the best we’ve tried this side of the Mandovi (Zend will agree). The menu is short, hand-written (just the way we like it) and includes all of 10 dishes: four versions of the curry, recheado rubbed fish, pork vindalo and sorpotel (Rs 70; served with rice), beef and fish cutlets, pomfret, surmai and lape fry, dal and vegetable. Of the fish frys, we suggest you ring up the rarely available lape (sole). And what good would this food feature be without at least a mention of spicy pork sausages? Castle prepares two versions: straight up pork, and pork chilly fry (both Rs 80), wiped off best with pav. Zend is done by the time we are done chatting. “This is the only place my wife will let me eat out at,” he says, with a playful look at Blanch. “My only grouse is that they are undercharging their customers.” We’ll second that. Pork vindalo with pav Fish Curry Rice A plate of crisp bombil fry Zyros Zend is a regular lunch customer at Castle Deepak D’souza, his son Hayden, mom Lorna and aunt Blanch
Posted on: Sun, 01 Sep 2013 13:08:07 +0000
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