DR. APRATIM GOEL MD, DNB, FAGE. Cosmetic Dermatologist and Laser Surgeon. Goel’s Cutis Skin Studio, Mumbai, India. INTRODUCTION: Let’s face it, the quest for the fountain of youth never gets lesser and no one wants to look their age which is why anti aging skin care treatment products are such big business these days. As the market for anti-ageing products becomes over-saturated, beauty companies are turning to a host of new surprise ingredients in an effort to entice the age-conscious consumer. The problem is finding the best ones from the majority which don’t live up to their promises and actually contain harmful ingredients. The new ingredients seen emerging in the cosmetic skin care market in 2013 and onwards are Stem cells, Caviar, Coffee, Snake venom, Algae and sea salts, metals, peptides and growth factors and a host of antioxidants like acai, green tea, white tea, Glutahione, alpha lipoic acid, co enzyme Q10. A brief run on few of these ingredients and whether they will stand the test of time is as follows: STEM CELLS: Stem cells have recently become a huge buzzword in the skincare world. Stem cells are the body’s cellular building blocks or raw materials. Stem cells have the remarkable potential to develop into many different cell types in the body. When a stem cell divides, it can remain a stem cell or become another type of cell with a more specialized function, such as a skin cell. Stem cells undergo dramatic decrease due to many factors such as free radical damage, stress, inflammation, poor diet/lifestyle choices which negatively affects the body’s ability to heal and protect itself. But why stem cells in skin care products? Where are they derived from? Stem cells can be derived from your own body like from fat or bones, but those cannot be incorporated into skin care products. For the cosmetic industry, the stem cells are either plant based (especially apples) or synthesized with specialized peptides and enzymes which, when applied topically on the surface, help protect the human skin stem cells from damage and deterioration or stimulate the skin’s own stem cells. There is controversy surrounding the use of stem cells, as some experts say that any product that claims to affect the growth of stem cells or the replication process is potentially dangerous, as it may lead to out-of-control replication or mutation. Others object to embryonic stem cells from an ethical point of view. Though stem cells have not arrived big way in India, in most of other Asian and European countries, it is an established and accepted modality of skin treatment. Use of autologous fat stem cells from patients for skin and hair rejuvenation and have got excellent results. However plant based cells, are still new. However the results for hair mesotherapy with plant based stem cells so far are encouraging. However there are still not many scientific research and data supporting the tall claims and stem cells will still have to take the test of time”. GROWTH FACTORS: Growth factors are proteins that regulate cellular growth, proliferation and differentiation under controlled conditions. They play an important part in maintaining healthy skin structure and function. They promote the formation of collagen and elastic fibres which give the skin its softness and suppleness. Interaction of growth factors with other proteins in epidermis and dermis results in skin repair and regeneration. When used in skin creams, these GF’s reverse the signs of aging. They reduces the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, age spots and evens out pigmentation. Currently, there are several topical skin creams containing a single growth factor or multiple growth factors and cytokines (small protein molecules secreted by cells) available for sale over the counter. They may also contain soluble collagen, matrix proteins and antioxidants to neutralise free radicals. Some growth factors used in skin creams: Transforming growth factor beta (TGF-B): Stimulate collagen secretion Vascular endothelial growth factor (VEGF): Stimulate new blood vessel formation. Keratinocyte growth factor (KGF): Stimulate epithelial cell growth. Basic fibroblast growth factor (bFGF): Promote formation of new blood vessels. Platelet-derived growth factor AA (PDGF-AA): Regulate cell growth and division. Transforming growth factors (TGF-B2&B3): Stimulate collagen secretion. Injectable form of growth factors along with stem cells for hair loss mesotherapy injections. In about 4-8 injections we see new hair growth. However for the skin EGF and GF used with dermroller is excellent so far. But the question is – Is it safe to use such creams on face or body for long term use? Most of the research on human growth factors for skin has looked primarily at the issue of wound healing, and at short-term use. Much remains unknown at this time, especially in terms of long-term risk or stability, when growth factors are used in cosmetics and applied to skin. Well-controlled clinical studies are lacking. LIPOSOMES & NANOSOMES: Many popular skin care ingredients cannot penetrate the outer layers of the skin (epidermis) to cause any therapeutic benefit due to factors such as their molecules are too large, they are the wrong solubility, they oxidize in the layers of the epidermis before they can reach the dermis, etc. Many professional and medical skin care product formulators have created unique delivery systems that help the ingredient pass through the skin’s lipid barrier into the deeper layers. The most promising for the coming year are the liposome and the nanosome technology. These systems help the ingredients to be penetrated into the cells. METALS: Most of the metals and minerals have been claimed to be part of skin care products and often concerns are raised about their afficacy as well as safety. The common metals are copper, zinc, magnesium etc. However gold, silver, diamond and platinum have all reached the skin care industry slowly. Some metals like gold and silver are best worn as ornaments on the skin. Moreover, we have encountered a few cases of abrasive injury of the skin after diamond tip microdermabrasion. CAVIAR: Caviar are fish eggs and mainly of 3 types: beluga, sevruga and osetra. Caviar was once considered extremely valuable and only served to royalty and the upper class. But what exactly is Caviar? Why is it so highly prized and so expensive? Caviar is a fully energetic product with rich nutritive components. It is a combination of proteins, low glycemic carbohydrates, and essential fatty acids. One of the main ingredients of this solution is DMAE. DMAE is a nutrient that helps build up neuro-transmitters that are responsible for firming muscle tone. A better muscle tone equals less sagging, rendering caviar a perfectly natural facelift. Its addition to skin care products offers a wealth of Proteins, Vitamins, Minerals, Phospholipids, Nucleic Acids and Water. These ingredients hydrate, nourish the skin, and intensify the processes inside the skin cells to slow down the skin aging process. MARINE/ SEA ALGAE: Originally popularized in France, the therapeutic use of seawater, seaweed, algae, mud, sand and other marine extracts is called thalassotherapy. It’s now spreading across the world, because it is believed to tone, moisturize, revitalize skin and improve circulation, as well as helps with relaxation, reduce the appearance of cellulite, boost the immune system, reduce stress and high blood pressure, and improve sleep quality. Thalassotherapy treatments now are offered in spas across the world. Baths or showers of warmed seawater, the application of body wraps containing marine algae or seaweed, seawater jet pools, marine mud baths, hydro-massage, and seawater steam rooms all are gaining popularity. In addition, many cosmetic and skin care companies are creating products with marine extracts, including algae, seaweed, marine mud and more. For starters, it regulates the production of sebum, oil secreted by the skin’s sebaceous glands that lubricates and protects the skin from moisture loss. While a certain level of sebum is necessary for healthy skin, too much can lead to acne and other skin disorders. Algae also has been found to have antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, be a great source of vitamins and may stimulate the production of collagen and elastin, which are essential for firm skin. CO ENZYME Q10 : Your body naturally makes CoQ-10 to neutralize free radicals in cells. As you age, CoQ-10 production reduces. That may make skin cells more vulnerable to damage by free radicals. That’s the reasoning behind the use of the antioxidant in skin care products such as toners, gels, and creams to be used alone or with a moisturizer. CoQ-10 helps reduce wrinkles and fine lines. CoQ-10 is bright orange, so products containing it will be orange or yellow. ANTIOXIDANTS: Antioxidants are natural substances made up of vitamins and minerals which are found in most plants in varying amounts. They can counter ‘free radicals’ that damage DNA. Damaged skin cells can speed up aging with wrinkles, dry skin, dark circles under eyes, dull skin, and more. Eating foods rich in antioxidants is key, not just for your skin but for your overall health. Antioxidants are also used on the skin. Example: Acai: Acai berries, which are native to Central and South America, are rich in antioxidants, more than those found in other berries. Cold-pressing acai berries extracts the oil, which may fight aging by healing sun damage and smoothing wrinkles. Antioxidant levels in acai oil remain high, even after it’s stored. Though studies have yet to confirm the benefits of acai oil on the skin, it is being used in masks, creams, cleansers, exfoliating scrubs, body butters, and serums. Alpha Lipoic Acid: Alpha-lipoic acid is made by the body and is found in every cell. As an antioxidant, it attacks free radicals throughout the body — it can penetrate skin-cell membranes to destroy them. Alpha-lipoic acid is touted commercially as a substance that can erase fine lines and wrinkles, diminish pores, and give skin a healthy glow. Green Tea Extract: Tea is loaded with nutrients called polyphenols, which have been shown to fight free radicals.Early studies have found the ingredients in tea can reduce sun damage and may protect skin from skin cancer when applied topically. Using green tea extract under sunscreen may yield a double dose of protection. Polyphenols in creams and lotions may also slow signs of aging and reduce sagging skin and wrinkles. Caffeine: Caffeine is also an antioxidant, but whether it can be used on the skin to reverse aging isn’t known. Still, skin care companies have added it to lotions and creams based on evidence that shows caffeine can inhibit the growth of skin cancer and, when applied to the skin, may make wrinkles less deep, especially ‘crow’s feet’ around the eyes. Hyaluronic Acid: Hyaluronic acid is included in skin care products to reduce the signs of aging. Your body produces hyaluronic acid naturally, keeping tissues cushioned and lubricated. It’s found in skin, joint fluid, and connective tissues. Age, smoking, and an unhealthy diet cause you to make less of it over time. Products containing hyaluronic acid may help smooth out skin. It’s especially effective when combined with vitamin C products. Pycnogenol: Pycnogenol is a pine bark extract that helps protect collagen and elastin, essential to skin’s youthful appearance, from breaking down. SNAKE VENOM: Ever since Gwyneh Paltrow made headlines with her famous snake venom facials, there have been many products with snake venom for skin care. It is a synthetic snake venom which causes muscle relaxation when applied on skin and mimics ‘Botox’ like anti wrinkle action. The active ingredient imitates a protein found in the venom of the Temple Viper snake. Inhibiting neuromuscular communication, it blocks messages from the brain to the facial muscles, reducing facial mobility so that wrinkles do not form. The human face uses about 60 muscles in communicating, both through speech and expressions. Frequent use of these muscles naturally results in the appearance of lines and then wrinkles, including laugh lines and crow’s feet. The results of this product are typical of topical treatments in their cumulative effect. While Botox is effective in a few days, the ‘freezing’ results of this topical begin to appear after about two weeks.
Posted on: Fri, 19 Jul 2013 06:26:25 +0000
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