INVICTUS AND KENZO FOR MEN I want to correct what I said by spelling mistake. When I wrote that Cashmeran Velvet contained traces of Amber Xtreme I wanted to write that Cashmeran Velvet it does NOT contain any drop of Amber Xtreme, not one single trace although some people say it contains. What contains the lovely molecule is the new fragrance Invictus by Paco Rabanne. It contains 1% of Amber Xtreme. Some “literate” people have written in Facebook that Invictus it is just coming from Kenzo for men and when adding Ambrocenide to it you will get the formula of Invictus accord. First this is not respecting the extraordinary creativity of the perfumers having created Invictus, one of the best launchings since long. Actually it is a very creative, ingenious, imaginative, innovative and original fragrance! I have never read such nonsense. Invictus is a great and real creation and it has nothing to do with Kenzo For men and the main accord in Kenzo for Men (Spirambrene, Kephalis, Cedryl acetate cryst.,) it is totally absent in Invictus. It is true that both fragrances share some molecules although in much different proportions (Benzyl salycilate, cis-3-hexenyl salycilate) by the way present in 95% of the fragrances launched in the world….Both fragrances also share a small amount of Hedione as almost all the fragrances in the world too… Can we see that one fragrance using a bit of Hedione and benzyl salycilate is a copy of another one????? Invictus is a much complicated, intricate and dense formula, the accord Benzyl-Cis-3-hexenyl salycilates from Kenzo as I said is also in Invictus but much less important. Also both fragrances contain Acetyl isoeugenol but Invictus much less. The Key accord in Invictus is totally absent in Kenzo for men, I mean the accord Cashmeran, Amber Xtreme, Ethyl decadienoate 2,6,. the Damascone, Dynascone, Beta Damascenone, ethyl maltol, the huge amount of Iso-Gamma-Super, Hedione-Kharismal, Coumarine, Helional, the Firmenich chemicals, Romandolide, Habanolide, Muscenone delta, Polysantol, Scentenal, Baies Rose then the citrus accord, the green-fruity accord consisting of Manzanate, Ethyl butyrate, Cis-3-hexenyl acetate, Melonal, Cis-3-hexenol, Cis-3-hexenyl isobutyrate, Hexyl acetate, Triplal, Liffarome, ethyl maltol wisely dosed....(do these ingredients smell nothing????) I guess they do but maybe the one having written about the source of Invictus being Kezo for men is anosmic to all of them! None of them is in Kenzo which is not a green fragrance at all...They mentioned that if not the huge amount of Amber Xtreme(1%) ????? we would smell the marine note which is supposedly covered by the great captive IFF molecule...The only marine note in Invictus is a trace of Firmenichs Calone which occurs in one hundred thousand perfumes and also in Kenzo but in Kenzo is in a much higher dose... then the “beautiful fairy tale” story of Ambrocenide... Ambrocenide is a great molecule and I have written wonders about it in my past books when it was totally captive, but it is a totally different olfactory profile as compared to Amber Xtreme, so the one writing this most probably never smelled Amber Xtreme which imparts a great sensual, corporeal volume while Ambrocenide is much drier , longer lasting and imparting an entirely different character to the fragrances where it is used. Invictus is also mossy but having a totally different moss as compared to Kenzo for men. Good to say that the vanillin amount in both fragrances is about the same but does this mean any copy???…Vanillin is in very small amount in both fragrances…. The accord of Invictus is citrus, green, Cashmeran, Amber Xtreme, Rose ketones, Dynascone, Ethyl decadienoate, Romandolide, Polysantol, Habanolide, Iso-Gamma-Super, Muscenone delta, Ambroxan (not present in Kenzo), laurel leaf oil, the great harmonizer….Helional, versus Siberian Pine Oil, Spirambrene, Cistus, Kephalis, Vertofix Coeur, Cedryl acetate cryst., a small amount of Iso E Super… and sharing in totally different dosages Benzyl Salycilate, Helional, Cis-3-hexenyl salycilate, Calone, Lilial, Tonalide and Acetyl isoeugenol…. Where is the similitude????? Where is the resemblance??? Where is the supposed source??? As I said Invictus is a much more elaborated, detailed, sophisticated, full and meticulous formula and a highly structured fragrance having the main accord absolutely different! Aqua di Gio Essenza also contains a trace of Calone, harmonizing the best marine chemical ever discovered, the fabled Cascalone, and again has Muscenone delta, Hedione, Habanolide, Benzyl salycilate… will this be a copy of Kenzo too?, or will Invictus be a copy of Acqua di Gio Essenza? To mention this is really debasing our work, our creative sensitivity, warmth, feelings when smelling but as somebody told today that art and beauty in the “New and Great future world we are forging”,are not necessary!, soon everybody deprived of the most sublime human soul feelings will say that both Invictus, Kenzo for Men or Acuqa di Gio Essenza or so many, will be copies of each other and why not, in this cold materialist future coming to us may be somebody, illustrated, intellectual, wise and astute leader will tell us when we will, all of us, be a herd of sheep what Lenin and Kaganovich said by late 1917 “In the future new world we do not need neither cosmetics nor perfumes, we do need “Desinfectants”…. And just to finalize with a great phrase by George Washington : “If the Freedom of speech is ever taken away then dumb and silent we may be let like sheep to the slaughter!” What a pleasure to write in my page without being censored! God Saves the world of the spirit, the one of the soul, the one of the mysteries, the one of the myths, the one of the legends, the one of idealism, the wise one of Classicism because these are the keys of creativity, the Fine Arts and sublime beauty where I place perfumery and the most eternal expression of Mankind!
Posted on: Sat, 26 Oct 2013 00:16:54 +0000
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