When the whole professiobal world of surfing in the 80s were following guys like Tom Carrol, Rabbit, Kong, MR, Simon Anderson, Saun Thompson ....there was one reason I wanted to surf and thst was the real reason....to be at one with the ocean, to travel and experience new cultures while surfing great waves. I am honoured and privileged to be friends with Jim and Maria. After walking away from the pro tour for something far more special my admiration for someone like Jim surpasses everything. Not only one of the original Indo surf pioneers but someone with extreme courage and dedication to his passion lifelong! Only the few have the courage to walk away from success and follow their dreams in life! That is what living is all about. After meeting my boyhood surfing idol since being in Bali it was an honour to have him around our place swimming in the pool with my kids, playing a few tunes on my guitar and also getting my boards shaped by him as well. Jim has a very nice spiritual way about him and still gets more Indo barrells than most people have had hot dinners.
Posted on: Wed, 16 Oct 2013 00:15:08 +0000
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