>>>Hey Rockaway,,, (long story. but maybe yous appreciate it) just now, sitting in my backyard in land locked suburbia, New Jersey... reading a surf magazine, so I felt inspired to share my thoughts with yall... I grew up in near in the bottom of the train map Brooklyn. Started surfing at the Rock at the age of 15-16 (1996),,, almost didnt graduate high school from skipping school to surf,,, true story... but anyway,,, when I started, 10 people was considered crowded, and I truly had to prove myself to the OG Rock Locals. Back then they would ask you Let me see your ID,,, meaning are you from the peninsula or not? Grown men would straight up try to discredit my right to be there,,, even though it was the closest break to my home... Theyd drop in on me in front of the rocks... So I had to learn to make that drop,,, like life and death decisions as a teenager... This was before surfline and magic seaweed, I watched Eyewitness news and prayed for an L in the forecast... so Id walk 2 miles to the bus stop at Kings Plaza Mall, and stick my 7 Plastic Fantastic board out the emergency exit through the roof... Then Id walk from 116th to 91st... And most of the time Id come to a lake of a beach,,, so Id sleep under the boardwalk... BJ local legend AKA Big Dog took me under his wing and knick named me beach bum or something like that. At the time the in only place to eat was the deli and La Playa and the PIZZA shop of course,,, and how could I forget the Restaurant... RBIs bar let us change into our suits there on occasion.. Basically, Id just like to share my memories of a more simpler time... Im not knocking the change, Im coming to grips with it... I see a lot of great things happening. I just want the new influx of people to respect the elders. The founders of the New Wave so to speak,,, I show a deep respect to surfers like Giuseppe Giammona, Robert Sherwood, J Scott Klossner, Brian B J James, Berto Carbonell, Colin Ackers, Cheyenne Cayenne Thomas Brookins St James, Keone Singlehurst, OneHundred Percent Hawaii, Ron Schein, Hunter S Richards and my MOM!!! Genie Rogers.. and many others... Peace Respect and Love,,, Jesse...
Posted on: Fri, 27 Jun 2014 16:13:47 +0000
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