My dear friends, I have returned from the far east alive and well. I spent 8 weeks travelling in China, but people will inevitably be asking about North Korea, so heres what I think. Interacting with ordinary citizens when travelling, but most notably so during the mass dances (I danced with a girl, who was overwhelmed haha!) was a really positive, life affirming experience, above all else. There are inevitable language barriers, but I do honestly think any positive interaction helps to break down the culture barriers with the hermit kingdoms people if there are any... despite what some may tell you, they seem genuinely happy to welcome you to their country. The performances (such as the gymnastic and school ones) they put on are among the most prodigious, beautiful displays you will see anywhere. Ill admit that it is genuinely interesting to see how their culture works, politics aside. The company I had on my tour couldnt have been better. But... politics. Before you ask, they wouldnt dare talk about defectors or kwalliso, so dont ask me about them. Heres what I know. Imagine if we built museums to expose Nazi crimes, but presented them in such a way that held the present German government responsible as well. Auschwitz is a warning to humanity, but the war crimes museum is thinly-veiled hate of the Americans and South Koreans. Instead of mourning the loss of life during the war as we do with WW2, they choose to celebrate their dubious victory year upon year. One part of their show was a Chucklebrothers-esque sketch that made fun of American soldiers, which although mildly amusing was depressing. The DPRK is stuck in 60 year old thinking, and will simply not let go of (if you believe them) their victory against the American imperialist dogs (thats a quote, not my choice of words). They build lavish monuments for no other reason than to celebrate and pay tribute to the Kim dynasty (including a carbon copy of the Arc de Triomphe), with socialist realism paintings along the streets reminding the people of that every day. Just to show how great they are, to show how rich and powerful they are. Political and patriotic folk music blares out from loudspeakers in parks, and we were required to bow before statues of the leaders. Apart from a little about their day to day life, touring the DPRK is focused on Kim il Sung this, Kim jong Il that, and its sad. The saddest part I found is that they genuinely want Korea reunified, but under Songun. As for nuclear war, all we were told was that they werent afraid of war with South Korea if they invade, but they dont want war. No mention of the submarine incident though. Will they initiate one, or decimate half the planet with their nuclear scheme? Well, would a bankrupt country that relies on trade with China, foreign aid and investment (tourists can only use Euro/USD/RMB, not won), one that is effectively a third world nation with frequent bouts of famine and ration shortages, want to take on the world superpowers? If they did, the country would be crippled beyond any chance of recovery. The media doesnt help to change this, but if you ask me its all macho posturing; imagine an arrogant kid taking on a bodybuilder, and you have the DPRK vs. the US and the South. The future does show signs of change though. Small private enterprises (restaurants etc.) are creeping into Pyongyang, and regulations are being relaxed steadily with tourists. With Western culture, I was surprised to see students in the university listening to The Beatles as part of their study. The guides are big fans! Its forbidden to play western music on the radio, but I often dreamt about what a music festival would be like in the DPRK. Its a thought, isnt it? Nobody knows whatll happen in the future, but there are some signs of change for the better. On a shorter note, I tried to go and infiltrate the legendary floor 5 at the Yanggakdo Hotel, but they nailed the bloody door shut! Ha!
Posted on: Fri, 31 Oct 2014 13:53:01 +0000
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