Spectator / Participant I remember that first wave; stumbling - TopicsExpress

Spectator / Participant I remember that first wave; stumbling to my feet, riding the white wash to shore. I was certain I had become the king of the world. I was no longer someone who wanted to surf, someone who thought about surfing; I had become a surfer. This one small insignificant event changed the course of my life. My holiday destinations, my work, my world view and my personality are all influenced by being a surfer. Surfing is my religion, if I have one. Kelly Slater In that one simple act on one wave over 40yrs ago; I had gone from being a spectator to a participant in something life changing…. portfolio566867.4ormat/eph-3-1-13

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