Wanderlust has arrived safely in Tonga! LAND HO! Amazing what a nice sail will do for the energy levels. After sailing just over 15000 miles in the last 18 months, I just went through the most windless section of ocean I have ever encountered. For 4 days there was not a breath. I alternated engines in 12 hour shifts and waited, and waited, and waited for the breeze to return. Although there was no breeze, there was still a lumpy ocean that picked up and pitched Wanderlust continuously for the entire time. It got a little old actually. I could feel myself getting a little frustrated with the lack of wind and the constant rocking. I can imagine what sailing through the Doldrums was for sailors of old. Becalmed is an unusual frustration. You find yourself searching the horizon, looking at clouds and analysing their patterns. Constantly searching for the elusive puff of breeze. Sometimes you get your prayers answered, and a 5 knot breeze hits your cheeks. You wait 5 minutes … scan the horizon, the familiar ripples are ongoing,so up goes the main sail, out goes the head sail. But it’s not enough, with the swell hitting beam on, and such light wind, the sail fills and collapses noisily. The clanging of lines on the boom, the luff in the head sail tells you that you were premature. Drop the mainsail, furl the jib, power up on the engine, we will wait until more substantial wind occurs. Then … repeat this process for 4 days, and you get a touch of the Doldrums experience. So, when I awoke this morning to 12 kts blowing from our starboard aft I felt a spring of energy. I waited until the sun came up. Is it real? I think I’ve been tricked before! As soon as Dion wakes up, we set the big Gennaker into motion. It’s much easier to handle with 2 people. Flying it is easy but any problems and a 2nd person is really needed to furl it properly and safely …… So up she goes, fills instantly …she’s huge, sheet it back ... set, tell tales are lined up like ruler edges. Turn my attention to the mainsail ... ease the main sheet, slide the traveller across, put on a jibe preventer, and we are sailing again. Shut the engine off, and there it is, the reason we sail. The feeling of being propelled solely by the wind is all-absorbing, georgous, powerful yet peaceful. Our range of travel is open ended, no longer worried about, or restricted by diesel supplies. We now have the ability to travel over vast distances, the vessel is quiet, save for the odd creak and waves gently slapping on her hull. We are under full sail … Wanderlust comes to life, and with her, her crew also. “LAND HO …” I call at the top of my voice … when with the binoculars I spot Tongatapu (the first of the southern section of Tonga). The reef systems are extensive around the islands, so I decide to continue on to Vava’u. Instead of picking my way through to Nukualofa, I feel our time can be better served getting familiar with the actual cruising area, and with it ,also see first-hand what is on offer provision-wise. At only 160 miles difference I can make an overnight passage through the season, if need be, to the capital. So we only scoot the edges and stay 20miles off the island in the deep water, away from any navigation hazards. I can keep good our current speed, so we should arrive in Vava’u mid to late afternoon, with good light for our first entrance. Perfect …… So, in the morning the air is filled with breeze, and the anticipation of land is high. I use the squealer until lunch, when the wind heads me off. The large belly of the Gennaker is only good for wind angles coming over your shoulder. It is specifically designed for downwind sailing. As the wind comes around to 60 degrees off the bow, we furl the big girl away and she will be stowed until the next downwind run. The single sail adds a huge capacity for increased wind angle use, and gives us the ability to make good distances in relatively light winds. But for now … I set full main and jib and we surge towards Vava’u. It’s so green ... so many islands …rugged undercut edges, caves and beautiful sandy beaches … truly a vision of paradise. The main port is 10 miles up a deep winding channel. The most protected surreal landscape, the first sailors to peek up the enchanting archipelago must have dropped their jaws in awe. The pacific can take on some rough faces, with converging currents in and around the islands. Some big jumps in depth can affect surface conditions, and seasonal strong winds can whip up sea states quickly, so the aptly named Port of Refuge is a jewel in the Pacific’s crown. We are all super-exited to explore the area with guests, and already know that this is going to a fantastic stop on Wanderlust, and Tradewinds’ circumnavigation. With a few sideways forages, 11 days at sea and just under 1300nm, we find ourselves safely moored up in the tranquil “port of refuge“ in the township of Neiafu. We averaged a respectable 5.5kts with a lot of help from our underwater, spinning steel sails. The fastest speed was 11.6kts, under sail on the last day with a following swell. Our strongest wind was 36 kts and our largest seas were around the 5 metre mark. We saw sperm whales, dolphins, whale sharks. Caught tuna ,wahoo, mahi mahi and a small billfish on the last day. It was, for me, one of the shortest, but the most challenging crossing so far. Memorable and also very different. Dion has well and truly earned his place on the team, and Georgia has well and truly earned a full night’s sleep. Her early shift on watch will take a few days to get back to regular sleeping patterns. I know she is very excited to go to the local markets and start working some traditional Tongan menu items. Team Wanderlust looks forward to seeing you guys here sometime soon … until the next crossing MALO for reading, and sharing the journey with us… (MALO is Tongan for thank you) Team Wanderlust – safely in Vava’u, Tonga
Posted on: Wed, 16 Apr 2014 00:18:52 +0000
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