Buying a steam engine Eric Pookie Saum and anyone else who is looking buying a steam engine at some point, here is a basic list of what I would look for when buying a steam engine. These are in no particular order. If the engine is not under steam/running: 1) Do the flanges have a nice rounded contour and is there a decent radius where the flange meets the tapered tread? Does the tread have a taper, or is it worn flat? (Sharp, worn or square flanges (which can chew up the rail, thin flanges can break easily) need to be turned to a new and proper shape. A wheel that does not taper so it is larger at the flange to smaller on the outside of the wheel may still have live left, but are closer to the end of their life) Do the wheels appear tight on the axles or is oil or grim working out between the axle and the bore of the wheel, which signifies that the wheel is loose on the axle. 2) Does the engine roll easily? Is there any binding in the rods or any tight/binding spots as the wheels rotate? The engine should roll easily without any grinding or metal on metal noises. There will typically be a smooth resistance from the pistons. 3) How loose or tight are the rods? The rods should be able to move side to side some so they dont bind on the crank pin caps as the axles shift in the driving boxes as you go around curves. The rods should be able to move forward/backward slightly (I like to have .005 (about the thickness of 5 hairs) clearance between the crank pins and the side rod bushings) so they dont bind on the crank pins and dont wipe off the oil/grease lubricant. If they move excessively (.020+) they should be replaced in the near future. Are there any cracks seen in the rods or valve gear? 4) How loose/tight is the valve gear? If the culminated slop at the valve (the valve can be pushed and pulled without moving the engine) is 0.040.-0.055 (3/64+) I rebuild the valve gear (mainly replacing bushings and pins) as that is enough to have a noticeable effect on the timing/valve movement. 5) When pushing the engine back and forth, can you hear air being pushed out of the cylinders at the stack or open cylinder cocks? I have heard of stories where engines were sold without pistons or valves. If air movement is not noticeable when pushing the engine then one would start to question if the valves and pistons are in place. 6) Does the engine have a lubricator (mechanical or hydrostatic) to lubricate the piston and valves? If it is mechanical, does the pawl engage and rotate the ratchet as you move the engine? Do the piston and valve rods have a slight covering of oil, or are they rusted showing minimal lubrication? If the cylinders have not been properly lubricated, they can be damaged/scored. Sometimes this requires new piston rings and reboring or honing the bores. 7) Does the boiler show any signs of leaks at welded joints or staybolts or signs of bulging on the outside of the boiler? 8) Look inside the firebox (use a light) through the firebox door and look at the grates/burners. Do they look like they are really beat up, burned, damaged? Or look like they have been used but not abused? 9) While looking in the firebox, look at the sheets and tubes inside the firebox. Is there any rust around the tubes, or on the sheets than can signify that the tubes/sheets are leaking? When was the boiler last given a hydrostatic test? A leaking boiler is an expensive fix. 10) Open up the smokebox and inspect the front tube sheet and tubes for signs of leaks and bulging. Inspect the steam lines as they exit the boiler and head to the cylinders for signs of leaks, decay or damage. If you can look into the boiler (steam dome, plug openings) is the boiler decently clean of rust and scale, or is it filled with rust flakes and scale? A dirty boiler can be cleaned, but it takes time and the dirt may hide signs of decay and thin spots. 11) Does the tender roll easily? If you sit on the tender, do the spring support you or are they full compressed? How does the inside of the water tank look? Is it fully rusted out? 12) Does the brake system appear to be connected with tie rods to operate all brake shoes? If it is manual brakes, check to see if they work. If they are steam operated, check to see if the brake valve is piped up to a steam source (probably from the turret on the boiler) and piped to the brake cylinder. 13) Do the valves in the cab and valve connected directly to the boiler function easily or are they seized up? Does the throttle open and close easily. Are there ways to get water into the boiler other than a handpump (which is very time consuming) such as axle pump, injector, crosshead pump or steam driven pump? 14) Is the water sight glass (located in the cab, for the most part on the backhead) clean and do its valves operate easily? Is the bottom of the sight glass above the top of the crownsheet (the highest point in the firebox)? In some states and clubs, the bottom of the sight glass must be a minimum of 1/2 (0.500) above the top of the crown sheet. On my engines, I have a punched line on the backhead which marks the height of the crownsheet. 15) Can you rock the engine side to side easily and see the frame move in the driving boxes? Or is it stiff? If the springs are too stiff, the engine will ride hard which can beat it up over time. An engine can also be stiff if the driving boxes are stuck in the frame and dont move easily up and down in the frame. If the engine is under steam, check these in addition to the above list: 16) Do the brakes work? 17) Does the chuffing of the engine sound even and square? Does the engine pulse when running? Does it sound good in forward and reverse? 18) If the engine is running in the corner (full forward or full reverse) start moving the johnson bar closer to center/neutral. Does the engine still have 4 even exhaust and sound good running in forward or reverse? A valve gear that is set up well will sound even in forward and reverse and the engine can be run close to center. (All three of the engines that Dad and I built run well just forward or just reverse of center) 19) Is the sight glass operating well and can it be read easily? 20) Do the injectors, axle pump, crosshead pump or steam driven water pump work well and does it keep up with the demand? 21) Is there any weird clacking noises or noise that sound like something is rubbing against the spokes of the wheels? 22) Is the lubricator using oil and lubricating the valves and pistons? 23) How well does the engine steam running light vs pulling a good size train? The boiler should be able to keep up with the demand. 24) Does the engine ride well? Does the engine track well or does it derail easily? Does the engine take left and right handed curves and switches easily?
Posted on: Fri, 26 Dec 2014 21:47:24 +0000
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