Organic Gardening Tips and Methods (Part 6, section 1) Soil Preparation and Planting Once planted, a tree may remain in place for decades or even century’s, so it is essential to provide it with the best possible growing conditions; Climate, Soil type and the amount of light and shelter available all affect a trees growth, so take these factors into account when deciding on a planting position, carful preparation and planting and after care are vital in helping a tree to establish quickly and grow well. Climate Considerations; Before selecting a tree, check it will flourish in the temperate range, rain-falls and humidity levels of the site, special local factors, such as strong winds on exposed hill top sites, should also influence your choice. Even within a species, different cultivars may be more suited to certain conditions, so one plant may thrive while another may not; various cultivars of Magnolia grandiflora, for example tolerate minimum temperatures ranging from; -12 degrees C to -6 degrees C (10-43 degrees F). In areas subject to spring frosts, choose trees that come into leaf late as frost frequently damages young growth, in cold areas, trees that are not fully hardy may not be grown outdoors, but they may/will need protection from frost during winter and should be planted in a sheltered site. If growing tender or tropical species in temperate areas keep them under cover or grow tem in containers so they may be brought indoors for the winter. Trees rarely grow well in regions where the annual rainfall is less than 250mm (25cm) and most prefer at least four times this amount. Most trees do not require irrigation, however/except when the tree is newly planted, as they obtain enough water from rain and, in some areas, from heavy mists condensing on their foliage. Choosing a Planting Site; When planting a tree, try to choose the best position for it within the garden because the micro-climate may vary considerably from one part of the plot to another. Make sure that the selected site will provide an appropriate amount of light and shelter: many large-leaved trees, for example, will thrive in a sheltered, partially shaded position but may not grow well in an exposed site where the foliage would be subjected to strong winds and high light level. In coastal areas, choose a planting site that is sheltered because sea spray and salt-laden winds (even a few miles inland) may scorch leaves/foliage and cause damage to the growth buds. Some trees, however, tolerate coastal conditions and may be planted as wind breaks to help screen other more vulnerable plants from strong winds. Similarly, if trees are being planted on a slope, bear in mind that tender trees are more likely to succeed halfway down/up where it is usually more sheltered than either at the top or at the bottom (to avoid frost pockets and frost damage). It is best not to plant trees very close to walls or buildings, otherwise, when young the trees may suffer from reduced light and moisture as a result of the “rain-shadow” effect, ideally they should be planted half their mature height away from any structure. In addition, the strong, fibrous roots of some trees such as; poplars (Populus) and willows (Salix), may damage drains and foundations of buildings as they develop. Tender species may be planted near a warm wall; there they will benefit from the walls retained heat and so may survive in a region where they would fail in more open conditions. When choosing a site ensure that the trees will not interfere with overhead and/or underground cables and pipes which my obstruct the trees or be damaged by them (the trees). Selecting a Tree; Trees may be bought container-grown, bare-root, or root-balled, although conifers and palms are not usually available as bare-root, they may be purchased in a variety of sizes and stages of maturity, from seedling through to semi-mature trees. Young trees tend to become established more quickly than older trees, while the latter create a strong immediate impact in the garden but are more expensive. Whichever type you choose, check that the tree has healthy, vigorous top-growth and roots with no signs of; pests, disease, or damage, both the branches and root systems should be well developed and evenly balanced around the stem. The top-growth, however, must not be over-large for the root system, otherwise the roots cannot absorb the nutrients and moisture needed to make/produce new growth, and the tree may fail to establish. The spread of container-grown trees, for example, should be no-more than three (3) to four (4) times the width of the/its container. Trees that have not been allowed to flower or fruit prematurely, so they look seemingly impressive to the buyers, should also be avoided, such growth may well have been at the expense of the basic root development. Container-Grown Trees; These are widely available and may be bought and planted at any time of year, except when the soil is very dry or very wet; container-grown trees are usually more expensive than bare-root or root-balled specimens of comparable size. This is the best method of buying trees that do not establish easily when transplanted, such as; Magnolias and Eucalyptus, because there is less disturbance to the roots, such difficult-to-establish trees should also be bought and planted when they are still small. Exotic and less common trees are usually sold in pots/containers. Before buying a tree, remove it from its container, if possible, so that you can see the roots clearly: do not buy a pot-bound tree with a mass of congested roots or one with thick roots protruding through the drainage holes. Such trees may not establish well. Equally, if the compost does not cling to the root-ball when the tree is removed from its container, do not buy it as its root system is not sufficiently established. Make sure that the container is large enough in relation to the tree (as a guide); the containers diameter should be atleast one-sixth (1/6th) of the trees height. A tall tree growing in a small container will almost certainly be pot-bound. The potting medium/compost is also important; trees that are containerized in soil-based potting compost (ie; John Innes #2/#3), establish more quickly in open ground than those grown in other types of composts, because they have less of an adjustment to the surrounding soil. Bare-Root Trees; Trees sold bare-root which are almost always deciduous, are grown in open ground, then lifted with virtually no soil around the roots. As soon as they are exposed to the air, however, the fine feeder roots begin to dry-out. A reputable nursery will remove any ragged ends as well as prune away any lopsided, over-long, or damaged roots. It is essential to buy bare-root trees when they are dormant, preferably in autumn or early spring; they are more likely to survive transplanting if purchased and planted when in leaf; Ash (Fraxinus), poplars (Populus), and many rosaceous trees, such as; Crab apples (Malus), are often sold bare-root from nurseries, while only fruit trees tend to be available bare-root from garden centres (depending on garden centre). Make sure that the tree you chose has well-developed roots spreading evenly in all directions, a number of small roots about 2-5mm (1/16th-1/4in) in diameter is a good sign as it indicates that they have been undercut every year or so, a technique that encourages sturdy growth and vigorous growth and vigorous root systems. Examine the roots to check they are free from damage and disease and that there is no sign of dryness that may have been caused by exposure to the wind. Do not buy trees with “Hockey-stick” roots where all the growth is on one side; these will not establish well. Root-Balled Trees; These are grown in open ground, but when lifted, the roots and surrounding soil are wrapped in hessian or netting to hold the root-ball together and stop drying-out. Deciduous trees are over 4m (12ft) and many evergreens, especially conifers and palms of more than 1.5m (5ft), are often sold this way. Buy and plant root-balled trees when dormant in autumn or early spring, following the same criteria as for bare-root and container-grown trees. Check that the root ball is firm and its wrapping is intact before purchase; if there is any sign of drying-out or root-damage, the tree is less likely to establish well and because the resulting system is unstable and not well anchored, the tree will be susceptible to wind-rock especially when mature. Seedlings, Transplants, and Whips; Seedlings up to one year old are available from specialist nurseries (or ordered via the/a garden centre). Transplants are seedlings or cuttings transplanted in the nursery and are up to four years old, they make sturdy, bushy plants and are usually 60cm-1.2m (2-4ft) tall. The age and treatment may be given in shorthand; “1+1” denotes a seedling left for one year in the seedbed and then transplanted for a further season; “1u1” means that it was undercut after the first year and remained in situ for a further year. Whips are single whip-like shoots sold by height; they are 1-2m (3-6ft) tall and will have been transplanted at least once. Feathered Trees; These have a single main leader with a spread of lateral branches (“Feathers”) down to ground level. They will have been transplanted atleast once and are 2-2.5m (6-8ft) tall. Standard and Large Trees; Standards are roughly 3m (10ft) high and pruned to create one single main stem with no lateral branches for about 2m (6ft) above ground level, Central- leader standards are similar to feathered-trees but have a clear length of stem at the base; Branched-head standards are pruned to have an open centre. Trees of 2.1m (6.5ft) in height with a clear stem of 1.2m-1.5m (4-5ft) are known as half standards; Trees of 3.5m (11ft) are selected standards, larger trees available from nurseries include extra-heavy standards to 5m (15ft) tall and semi-mature trees 5-12m (15-40ft). Healing In; If planting is delayed, heel in the tree in a sheltered position. First prepare a trench, then set the tree in it, angle the tree so that the trunk is supported, cover the roots and base of the trunk with; moist, friable soil and do not allow the roots to dry out. Note; All information coincides with RHS guidelines.
Posted on: Sat, 09 Nov 2013 22:39:43 +0000
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