CULTURE & FASHION a beautiful exhibition: FASHION IN FRANCE, 1947-1957 Palais Galliera Paris & DIDIER LUDOT vintage Couture shop.......... From July 12th to November 2nd, 2014 Basques, petticoats, corolla skirts, pointed shoes, bright-coloured floral and striped prints, wasp-waist suits with straight skirts, strapless sheath dresses, cocktail dresses, rock crystal embroidery: such was the couture of the fifties. At the same time, though, a more relaxed style – close-fitting pullovers, pedal pushers, jeans – was being adopted by the baby boom generation. Early in 1947, Christian Dior launched his fashion houses first collection. The war had come to an end and with it the image of the soldier girl with a boxers build. In her place came Diors woman-flower, with prominent bust, cinched waist, flat stomach, rounded hips and very full skirt. Immediately dubbed the New Look by Harper’s Bazaar editor in chief Carmel Snow, the hourglass figure and its extravagant demand for fabric created a furore – but also met with the instant, dazzling success that made it the emblem of the decade. Other competing styles were just as remarkable: Balenciagas barrel line with its flared back and waist; and, at the opposite pole from the New Look, the dramatically innovative Chanel line of 1954 with its simple, straight suits. The 1950s were a decisive period for French haute couture, which had suffered badly in the wake of the 1929 stock market crash and the war and was now reborn and made eternal. The list of names says it all: Jacques Heim, Chanel, Schiaparelli, Balenciaga, Jacques Fath making up the old guard; followed by newcomers Pierre Balmain, Christian Dior, Jacques Griffe, Hubert de Givenchy and Pierre Cardin. Paradoxically the dominance of French fashion hinged not only on the prestige of names that spelled luxury, elegance and originality, but also on the professions willingness to make the revolutionary move into ready-to-wear. In 1954 the Couturiers Associés – Jacques Fath, Robert Piguet, Paquin, Carven, Jean Dessès – founded the first haute couture ready-to-wear licensing company . Drawn from the Palais Galliera collection and sporting the labels of the most famous couturiers as well as others now forgotten (Jean Dessès, Madeleine Vramant, Lola Prusac), the remarkable pieces making up this exhibition – some 100 models and accessories – retrace the evolution of the female form through the decade 1947–1957: from the birth of the New Look to the death of Christian Dior and the advent of Yves Saint Laurent. In the 1950s haute couture and ready-to-wear were one of Frances major economic sectors and a veritable fashion breeding ground. This was haute coutures golden age, when Paris regained its title of world fashion capital. palaisgalliera.paris.fr DIDIER LUDOT Created in 1975, the shop of vintage Couture Didier Ludot is an absolute Fashion museum . You will find any fashion houses there which have maded the history of Fashion, from Dior to Balmain, from Givenchy to Saintt Laurent ...... it is a real museum. Didier Ludot Vintage Couture shop: 24 Galerie Montpensier - Jardin du Palais Royal 75001 Paris from left to right 9 first photos Palais Galliera exhibition 9 others Didier Ludot vintage Couture shop
Posted on: Fri, 25 Jul 2014 16:57:36 +0000