...you may hear a few teaspoons of added regret when I say that it’s not a good restaurant yet by any measure. The hosts may learn how to read their reservations screen so they don’t tell a customer he’s the first to arrive and ask him to wait while the rest of his party is already in the restaurant’s inner recesses, wondering if he’s gone for a carriage ride. Somebody may tell the servers not to drop the check while people are still eating dessert. The sommeliers may turn down the thermostat so that red wines aren’t the temperature of a kiddie pool. The servers have the determined enthusiasm of counselors poached from a summer camp in Maine and given a crash course in big-city restaurant customs during the bus ride down Interstate 95. One of them thought everything we did and said was “wonderful”: our clever preference for sparkling water over still, our bold decision to look at dessert menus. Another picked up a few crumbs from the leather-topped table with his fingertips, then left the rest. Somebody showed up the instant the plates had been set down to ask brightly, “How does everything look?”
Posted on: Wed, 25 Jun 2014 03:02:40 +0000
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